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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5024

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
p-j wrote:
well, just to be sure Embarassed
what do i have to connect to 86 if I want to use the swith as a regular on/off switch
(I want to turn on my worklight manually, even when the engine is not running.)


Any power source trigger...mine doesnt switch from the main beam (i didnt want to butcher that wiring or open that side of the dash.

Mine has a trigger direct from the battery (all fused)...that is what you will need to do to the relay. Although i switch to earth not to power (a little easier wire wise) Mike
Post #41185 23rd Sep 2010 11:06pm
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Myo



Member Since: 13 May 2012
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 30

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
So trying to avoid the extortionist cost of an aux 2 switch, is the heated seat switch circuit the same? Do I just need to change the front cap to use it as my light bar switch ( it cost £8-9 compared to the aux2 £50!! Shocked Shocked )
Post #306040 7th Feb 2014 9:47pm
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PaulMc



Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 469

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Arles Blue
The Puma heated seat switch YUF500150LNF will work, but it's a live-switching switch (the Defender Aux-2 switch YUG000540LNF is an earth-switching switch)

It just means that you have to wire your lamps to suit the switch -

Pin 1 - Live in from fused supply
Pin 2 - Dash illumination
Pin 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Pin 5 - Earth)
Pin 4 - Switched live out to accessory
Pin 5 - Earth


e.g. -


Click image to enlarge




You can replace the heated seat switch's front with any other, including a modified blank (modified by drilling a 2.5mm hole in its front, to accomodate the tell-tale LED's lense) -


Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge



.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green  Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'
Post #306063 7th Feb 2014 10:59pm
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Myo



Member Since: 13 May 2012
Location: Cape Town
Posts: 30

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
Ha, done and working!
Thanks Paul Bow down your diagram is idiot proof.
Post #313021 2nd Mar 2014 10:03pm
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Northernremedy



Member Since: 18 Aug 2014
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 122

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Aintree Green
Hey gang!!!! Proper novice here, my new 110 has the spotlights in the a bar and wired in to the proper button on the top left dashboard. The weird thing is they don't work, the button doesn't light up with the rest of huge dashboard which made me think it is a fuse. I've checked fuses but can't obviously identify which it would be, am I going down the right thread as to why the button wouldn't light up or might there be another reason?

Thanks in advance!
Post #352373 18th Aug 2014 6:08pm
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GREENPUMA



Member Since: 12 Feb 2010
Location: devon
Posts: 17

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
Post #355355 3rd Sep 2014 1:17pm
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PaulMc



Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 469

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Arles Blue
Northernremedy wrote:
Hey gang!!!! Proper novice here, my new 110 has the spotlights in the a bar and wired in to the proper button on the top left dashboard. The weird thing is they don't work, the button doesn't light up with the rest of huge dashboard which made me think it is a fuse. I've checked fuses but can't obviously identify which it would be, am I going down the right thread as to why the button wouldn't light up or might there be another reason?

Thanks in advance!



Is your switch actually wired-up Question

If so, has it been done correctly Question

It should be wired as per my diagram, which I posted earlier in this thread, here -

http://www.defender2.net/forum/post6360.html#6360


Pop the switch out of the dash and take a picture of the connector and its wiring.

Post it here, and we'll see how it's been wired.

. Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'
Post #355362 3rd Sep 2014 2:23pm
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dozerman



Member Since: 09 Nov 2014
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 101

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Indus Silver
Hello - I think it has been touched on in this thread but I'm struggling to find the actual answer (I am pretty stupid to be fair) - is it possible to just buy the aux lamp fascias on their own, to clip on to another suitable switch body? If so, does anyone know what to ask for and who to buy from? Cheers.
Post #378580 13th Dec 2014 8:21am
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CallumB



Member Since: 22 Sep 2018
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Revisiting this thread - cannot get "on" light to
PaulMc wrote:
The Puma heated seat switch YUF500150LNF will work, but it's a live-switching switch (the Defender Aux-2 switch YUG000540LNF is an earth-switching switch)

It just means that you have to wire your lamps to suit the switch -

Pin 1 - Live in from fused supply
Pin 2 - Dash illumination
Pin 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Pin 5 - Earth)
Pin 4 - Switched live out to accessory
Pin 5 - Earth


e.g. -


Click image to enlarge




You can replace the heated seat switch's front with any other, including a modified blank (modified by drilling a 2.5mm hole in its front, to accomodate the tell-tale LED's lense) -


Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge



.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green


Hi, I know this is an old thread but hoping someone can help. I followed the wiring above to hook up an LED camping/work light on the back of my 90 van. I've used a Bearmach BA10299S latch switch and connected it as follows:

PIN1 = Power (from the spare purple power cable at the offside rear corner - aux outlet on the tow bar circuit I think)
PIN2 = Dash light feed
PIN3 = unused
PIN4 = power out to LED light (without going through a relay as low amps)
PIN5 = earth

The LED light works fine, with LED earthed locally, as does dash illumination but the on/warning light is not working. Oddly, I get the same results without the earth on PIN5 connected. Any ideas how to resolve? Banging Head
Post #781243 12th Jul 2019 1:59pm
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PaulMc



Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 469

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Arles Blue
The Bearmach switches are a copy of YUG000540LNF, which is an earth-switching switch, wired differently to my diagram above.

It should be wired, as follows -

Pin 1 - From the earth side of the Relay (Pin 85)

Pin 2 - To Dash Illumination Header (or an adjacent switch)

Pin 3 - Not Used (but connected internally to Pin 4)

Pin 4 - To Dash Earth Header (or an adjacent switch)

Pin 5 - Live from Accessory side of Relay (Pin 87), for 'tell-tale' orange LED


See - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic68044.html Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'
Post #781261 12th Jul 2019 4:02pm
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CallumB



Member Since: 22 Sep 2018
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Hi PaulMc, thanks but might have to give up on this - sounds like it's beyond my school boy understanding of powering a light and switching it Embarassed . I've no idea where this relay is* or how to pick up pins 85 or 87 or how that eventually feeds power the the light. I've run 3 wires back from the light and spare power all the way to the switch in the dash. If you or anyone could give an idiots guide on what wires to pick up and run I'd appreciate it. Very Happy Otherwise I'll put it down to experience! Big Cry

*no interest in running from main beam or exterior lights as this is for a work light to be used when ignition off - hence thinking using the spare purple in the rear was the answer.
Post #781264 12th Jul 2019 4:18pm
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CallumB



Member Since: 22 Sep 2018
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
EDIT. Didn't see page 2 of your link - answer is to keep wired as I have it but use different switch?!
Post #781265 12th Jul 2019 4:30pm
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PaulMc



Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 469

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Arles Blue
If you're using this switch to switch an LED lamp, then you probably don't have a relay - in which case, this switch isn't really suitable.

If you have the LED lamp permanently connected to the live, and use this switch to switch the lamp's earth - that will work - BUT, the Orange tell-tale on the switch won't work, as it requires a separate input on the switch's Pin 5

If you ran this from the LED lamp, the tell-tale would be on all the time.

There are two ways around this problem -

Option 1. Change the switch body for a live-switching switch, and swap over the bearmach engraved switch front.

Suitable switches, are -

Defender TD5/Discovery-2 heated seat switch

Defender Puma heated seat switch

Defender HRW switch

Discovery-2 cruise control switch


The Defender Puma heated seat switch YUF500150LNF is the cheapest, at around £10

This is a live-switching switch, which uses the Black connector.

Wiring for YUF500150LNF is, as follows -

Pin 1 - Live in from fused supply

Pin 2 - Dash illumination

Pin 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Pin 5 - Earth)

Pin 4 - Switched live out to accessory (LED lamp) - the switch's Orange tell-tale is powered when this terminal is live

Pin 5 - Earth


Option 2. Modify your exist switch's internal layout, to turn it into a live-switching switch.

This is quite easy, and requires a small cut in the internal circuit layout, and a loop of cable from Pin 4 to Pin 5 in the Black connector.

Genuine YUG000540LNF, as supplied ( switch opened up) -


Click image to enlarge



Modified, with position of cut in circuit shown in Red -


Click image to enlarge



By cutting the track at this point, you separate pins 3 & 4

The revised circuit would be as follows -

Pin 1 - Incoming Live from Main Beam/Dipped Beam/Side Lights/Permanent Live (as applicable)

Pin 2 - Live from Dash Illumination

Pin 3 - Switch Earth (for indicator LEDs)

Pin 4 - Switched Live output to Accessory or Relay

Pin 5 - Live in from Pin 4 (for Orange 'tell-tale' LED)


. Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'


Last edited by PaulMc on 12th Jul 2019 5:20pm. Edited 3 times in total
Post #781266 12th Jul 2019 4:40pm
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CallumB



Member Since: 22 Sep 2018
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 77

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
MUCH APPRECIATED PAULMC Thumbs Up Thanks for taking time to explain that - very thorough. I've ordered the heated seat one. I'll bear in mind my earth and live switching in future!
Post #781267 12th Jul 2019 4:45pm
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Mooose



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1

Australia 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hi PaulMc,

I have a question about converting the YUG000540LNF switch.. I can't for the life of me work out how to open it.. However, I have noticed with my switch, that the PCB tracks are visible at the bottom.. and apart from being back-to-front, the PCB tracks look exactly the same as the ones in your photos. Did your switch have a double-sided PCB tracks, or have I got some kind of newer version where the tracks are on the bottom of the PCB? I can see the two holes that you mention to cut between.

Does this look different to yours?


Click image to enlarge


Do you think scratching the tracks that are visible through these "access holes" would work, without having to open the switch?

Mmm. Maybe I'll just try it!

Thanks.
Post #912861 18th Jul 2021 6:51am
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