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| dave's 110 Member Since: 11 Jun 2008 Location: Norfolk Posts: 45   
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Have found this site I Know it's not the new Puma but the switch's are the same http://www.reedx.net/landrover/mods/2002dash/part5/index.htm
Still trying to find the part number for the Aux 2 light switch  SO you can swap the front cover over
Part number for the heated rear window is YUG 0004 70LNF Heated Rear Screen Switch Dave |
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2nd Oct 2008 9:20pm |
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| one_iota Member Since: 06 May 2008 Location: Sydney Posts: 99  
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I've just installed my driving lights and here is the rearranged console switching:
The driving light switch on the far right is part no YUG 000540LNF purchased from www.britishparts.co.uk. I haven't worked out how to get the switch illumination and on-light to work but at least the driving light switching is working (pins 1 & 4). Mahn '08 Defender 110 ex '95 Disco 300 Tdi www.aulro.com |
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3rd Oct 2008 1:49am |
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I have the switch - more importantly i have the genuine connector | PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 486 
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That's because YUG000540LNF switches the earth from the accessory's relay and not the feed to it. If you use it to switch across pins 1 & 4, it will work as a simple On/Off switch but, you won't get either the green illumination or orange 'tell-tale' light to work, as they are LEDs and require the switch to be wired-up as designed. To help me understand how to wire up my auxiliary lamps, I sat down and drew a diagram showing how the switch is wired internally and then added a basic auxiliary light circuit to the diagram. The trigger is shown as coming from the High Beam warning lamp, this is for Driving Lamps. For Front Fog Lamps, this trigger would be taken from the Sidelights or Dipped Beam - depending on local lighting regulations. Click image to enlarge The proper Tyco/AMP Connector 347477-1 with 5 x crimp terminals is available from Dingocroft, their Pt No. ZZPLUG01 - http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Elec...#aZZPLUG01
There's a lot more info here - http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.p...546498#new Paul. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Last edited by PaulMc on 2nd Dec 2009 7:09pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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17th Jan 2009 11:38am |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5024 
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Or on my post here  http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic795.html
Its fitted and working... one comment - i havent my notes, but pins 1, 3 and 4 are linked...this is an earth contact switch Mike |
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17th Jan 2009 6:51pm |
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| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 486
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I never saw that thread 
You're correct, this switch is designed to switch a relay's coil to earth. Pins 3 & 4 (which are commoned) are connected to pin 1 when the switch is in the ON position. Here's a picture of the inside of the switch, which I've annotated to show how the contacts connect accross pins 1 & 4 when in the ON position - Click image to enlarge Looking at the circuit inside the switch - Click image to enlarge It would be easy to convert this switch to a conventional live switching ON/OFF switch by cutting the brass track between the two holes, as marked in red in this next picture - Click image to enlarge By cutting the track at this point, you separate pins 3 & 4 The revised circuit would be as follows - Pin 1 - Incoming Live from Main Beam/Dipped Beam/Side Lights (as applicable) Pin 2 - Live from Dash Illumination Pin 3 - Switch Earth (for indicator LEDs) Pin 4 - Switched Live output to Accessory Relay Pin 5 - Live in from Pin 4 (for Orange 'tell-tale' LED) You could link pins 4 & 5 inside the switch while you had it apart, by soldering a link across the brass tracks but I would just crimp an extra short length of cable into Pin 4 and loop it round into Pin 5 on the connector. You will still need to use an accessory relay with this switch modified in this way but, at least it will be wired in a conventional manner. Lastly, where did you source your connector from? I managed to get some connector shells from a company called Heart Electronics and the correct crimp terminals from RS Components. Paul. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' |
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18th Jan 2009 3:00am |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5024
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No trouble. I like the internals of the switch pics - i didnt get that far to split the switch though!
I picked up a couple of connectors through some contacts. Ive used all mine now, but they were free! Seperately Heart are a great company I dont think there is anything wrong with using it to switch the earth supply (its almost the same as a +ve, but infact requires less wiring as you know). By my calculations the switch is switching about 3 amps max (1amp switching, 1amp on LED and 1amp illumination) - this means if you follow the LR connection process you could have up to 6 amps through the sister switches earth (this is what i currently have running). It is how its supposed to be should be fine though. Mike |
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18th Jan 2009 12:12pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2586  
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Paul, what do you need this connecter for? Will the switch not work by itself? |
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6th May 2010 11:04am |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5024
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It will work but you wont be easily able to connect anything to it! Mike
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6th May 2010 12:49pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2586
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good thing I asked then. Why don't they just make the whole thing into one unit?  |
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6th May 2010 1:55pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5024
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Remember this is a standard switch to plug into a standard loom - common - what we are doing is a) not buying the loom b) modifying its purpose Mike
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6th May 2010 2:32pm |
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| p-j Member Since: 08 Aug 2010 Location: belgium Posts: 4 |
I want to place 2 switches for 4 spotlights on my roofrack and a worklight on the back
I already have my led worklight (8.5W) I have chosen the other lights the switches and the connectors have just been deliverd... So I'm ready to start 
BUT! please help me a litle: How thick do all those wires from the switch to the relay and to the earth have to be? (Those called UB, B and UY) For cable "R" I calculated: 4 times 55W + led worklight = 228.5W => 2.5mm˛ with fuse 20A Do I have to run an earth cable to the battery or is it safe to use a place under the hood? Finally: I want my worklight to go on and off by the switch and not to be triggered by the reverse. So I believe I just have to change the wire that is connected to "86" on the relay to be a +12V. So... can I just use the 12V that comes from my battery or do I have to use some other 12V source? 
Can't wait to start |
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23rd Sep 2010 11:17am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19535
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To help me understand how to wire up my auxiliary lamps, I sat down and drew a diagram showing how the switch is wired internally and then added a basic auxiliary light circuit to the diagram.
The trigger is shown as coming from the High Beam warning lamp, this is for Driving Lamps. For Front Fog Lamps, this trigger would be taken from the Sidelights or Dipped Beam - depending on local lighting regulations. Click image to enlarge Yep, I did the same. What helped me was just to ALWAYS remember that between 85 on the relay and 86 is the coil (trigger) and 30 to 87 is battery positive to spot positive (switch) these will work the same in reverse also but who would want to i really don't know. But what you MUST not do is connecting up like 30 to 85 on my setup that would effectively put the battery positive to ground! Also make sure to remove the appropriate fuse and double check before connecting it all up. Unlike me and then wondered why the horn and main beam wasn't working i blew the fuse K9 remembers (i think) :rolllaugh:
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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23rd Sep 2010 12:46pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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 Hi Konabikes, yep I remember, was going to keep that one for a rainy day!
Konabike's diagram and explanation is 'spot on' (no pun intended), all the information you need is contained within this thread, if you need any more just holler! Good luck! If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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23rd Sep 2010 1:08pm |
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| p-j Member Since: 08 Aug 2010 Location: belgium Posts: 4 |
well, just to be sure
what do i have to connect to 86 if I want to use the swith as a regular on/off switch (I want to turn on my worklight manually, even when the engine is not running.) |
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23rd Sep 2010 11:28pm |
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