 | Home > Technical > Defender 90 Puma. Bad connection rear of instrument cluster |
 
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1566   
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Mark that’s made that video offers a repair service if you chicken out
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2nd May 2018 9:05pm |
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| Andy730 Member Since: 12 Dec 2017 Location: Douglas Posts: 45  
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Well, as it was such a nice day and with the wife at work, i decided to take the plunge..
removal of the cluster was simple.. (i've done that a few times) taking the front clear plastic front off, was new to me, but simple as i'd watched Marks video shown earlier in this thread.. So, here i am ready to remove the dials...  Click image to enlarge Marks video was invaluable, as it was removing the needles that was putting me of. But they came off with ease with the 'twist & pull' method. Here i am with the bare PCB with the offending plug solder connections on the top right... Click image to enlarge And here is a close up, Marks video was right again, the pins in the middle were all fine, but at each end, well, here's two more pics Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge There are cracked solder joints at each end of the socket (there's at least 3 on the left end, and two on the right end) I will admit that my soldering isn't he best, but it is functional. 
Here is the finished socket Click image to enlarge The cluster has been rebuilt and refitted to my car... I'm now very happy to report that i've covered 20(ish) miles without any issues. 
All of this would not have been possible without the fantastic help & advise from various members of Defender2,net 
Thanks people!! Andy 2007 Puma Defender 2005 Volvo S60 T5 (for Sundays) 1998 MGF |
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4th May 2018 3:56pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1566
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Glad you got it sorted Andy. The modern marvel of YouTube
I hope you left Mark a thumbs up |
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4th May 2018 5:17pm |
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| Andy730 Member Since: 12 Dec 2017 Location: Douglas Posts: 45
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Yes, thumbs up and my grateful thanks to him... even subscribed...
The internet is a wonderful thing indeed..
I'm not going to refit the rest of the plastic bits (top & bottom) of the cluster as my next job is the windscreen wiper wheel box's and drive rod... Once that is done, the only other issue is the EGR valve. It needs stripping & cleaning. I've already fitted a blank... It would be nice to get the engine light turned off  Andy
2007 Puma Defender 2005 Volvo S60 T5 (for Sundays) 1998 MGF |
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4th May 2018 8:44pm |
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| Terravecchia Member Since: 03 Jul 2016 Location: TerraVecchia Posts: 10  
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Hi all, I have run into this exact same problem with my 2008 TDCi and it is driving me up the wall... i have just tried to start my landy and turned once and that is it. Dead after that. I will leave for an hour and then start it again, can guarantee that it will start as it happened so many times. I plugged in my nanocom evo and disabled arm on lock,plip imobilised and key mobilised in the hope that it will render the AS10 semi useless, but did not work... as much as i dont like cutting wires i dont think i have any options (apart from buying a new cluster which I cant do right now). Has anyone tried Andy730 (or Petes) workaround as above? Not sure how these wires correspond to the connector at the back? Can anyone please shed some light... please? Thank you |
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25th May 2019 3:15am |
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| Andy730 Member Since: 12 Dec 2017 Location: Douglas Posts: 45
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Not sure it will help or not, but my problem eventually turned out to be cracked soldered connections n the instrument cluster where the socket is attached to the PCB.
There is a video of the problem on youtube &feature=youtu.be I took my cluster apart and sure enough the plug connections had cracks in the solder... I simply resoldered the connections and my landy has been fine ever since Andy
2007 Puma Defender 2005 Volvo S60 T5 (for Sundays) 1998 MGF |
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25th May 2019 11:27am |
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| Terravecchia Member Since: 03 Jul 2016 Location: TerraVecchia Posts: 10
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Thank you for the reply, i will remove it and have a look. Quite daunting soldering something like this.. for me anyhow. As i live out in the sticks i can not afford to break something
With your wire cut diagram (i have managed to id the wires) you mentioned that the car could start, which is number one to me, but your last sentence mentioned that it will reset the mileage trip meter to zero. Are you refering to the trip meter which can manually be reset by the button or overall milleage travelled meter - something i seriously hope will not be the case. Can you please confirm before i do the cut? Thanks a lot! |
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25th May 2019 10:40pm |
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| Andy730 Member Since: 12 Dec 2017 Location: Douglas Posts: 45
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Yeah, just the trip meter, just as if you pressed the button.
I'm not sure where you are located, but if you're not up to a bit of soldering, then there is a guy 'on-line' and in the UK that will do the job for you. I've seen a link to a site on here somewhere on here... But if you're up to doing it yourself, the hardest part is getting the cluster apart. If you already have a soldering iron and solder, then it's not that hard to re-flow the joints. Mine has been fine since i did it. Andy 2007 Puma Defender 2005 Volvo S60 T5 (for Sundays) 1998 MGF |
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26th May 2019 8:59am |
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| Andy730 Member Since: 12 Dec 2017 Location: Douglas Posts: 45
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I will add that if you have a problem with these bad joints on the PCB, then i noticed that every time the fault caused a problem with the car that it also reset the trip miles to zero once i got it started again. of course, this might not be the same for you, but it was another pointer to the PCB joints.
If i remember right, the immobiliser link through the cluster is meant to disable the car if the cluster is removed by a thief while trying to nick your car. So, please bear that in mind. Andy 2007 Puma Defender 2005 Volvo S60 T5 (for Sundays) 1998 MGF |
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26th May 2019 9:11am |
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| Terravecchia Member Since: 03 Jul 2016 Location: TerraVecchia Posts: 10
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Hi Andy, thank you for your help.
Glad to report that the solder solution worked. As you mentioned that hardest part was taking the cluster appart without breaking anything. When all was put back together and fitte, i hooked up the battery and she started first thing
My only problem now is turning the AS10 back on again. Remember i mentioned that i turned it off using my nanocom evo, well when i go into the same settings now it tells me "no data to write back" also where i have disabled the settings it shows as enabled. Yet the clusters red light does not come on any longer as it was when i disabled the settings... did i need to save the data before disabling it perhaps! Any idea how i can turn these on at the as10 module level again? Cristo |
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1st Jun 2019 2:17am |
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| Andy730 Member Since: 12 Dec 2017 Location: Douglas Posts: 45
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Hello Cristo,
Glad the repairs worked out ok. As to your other problem with the AS10 unit, i'm sorry, but i can't help you with that one 
It might be an idea to post a new thread asking for help with the AS10 explaining what happened. At least you can drive your car now, so that's good!
Andy.. Andy 2007 Puma Defender 2005 Volvo S60 T5 (for Sundays) 1998 MGF |
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1st Jun 2019 8:29am |
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| Andrewdb Member Since: 21 Oct 2019 Location: Sweden Posts: 11  
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Hi Andy, I have started to have the same problems as you and Christos, on my 2008 110 Puma, but on the starting side only, not the gauges. I am pretty sure that the Instrument panel is the cause (checked everything else, new batteries, connections etc with no joy). I would like to try the bridge with the cables you mentioned, but it is not clear to which cable in the plug you are referring to, checking my wiring diagrams they don't seem to match your reference. Any help you can provide will be much appreciated try and get the car to start. Many thanks for your input.
Andrew |
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6th Nov 2019 6:24pm |
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| Andy730 Member Since: 12 Dec 2017 Location: Douglas Posts: 45
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Hello Andrew.
My Defender has been fine ever since I made the repair. I haven't gone back over the complete thread here, but I don't recall there being any issues with gauges.. but it has been a while... Anyway, one good indication I had that it was the multipin plug on the instrument cluster was the miles trip meter always reset it self to zero. Keep an eye out for it. As to what plug is it... You've fallen into the same trap I did. The wiring diagram showing the temporary link behind the cluster only shows part of the multipin plug.. There is only one plug to the rear of the cluster, and the relative wires are in the bundle. BUT, here's the thing... if you have removed the cluster so you can get to the plug... why not go the whole hog, and delve into the cluster itself and check the PCB..? If you find it is bad joints, then a little time with a soldering iron and you'll have it fixed. Then there will be no need to bridge out the cluster as it will work as it is supposed to do. If you feel it is beyond your abilities (nothing wrong with that!) there are one or two companies out there that will fix it for you.. for a small fee of course.. The cluster is fitted to a few different cars within the Ford group. Hope that this helps... Andy 2007 Puma Defender 2005 Volvo S60 T5 (for Sundays) 1998 MGF |
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6th Nov 2019 8:50pm |
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| Andrewdb Member Since: 21 Oct 2019 Location: Sweden Posts: 11
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Hi Andy,
Thanks for your quick reply. I thought about the soldering as this make good sense, I was hoping to try a quick fix with the wire bridge to nail it down to the IPAC (i.e bridge it, if it starts all good and remove bridge and hopefully it won't start) and then spend some time with the soldering iron to hopefully resolve it fully. One question though - in the thread you state that you 1st bridged the wires and the car started , then moved on to the PCB to resolve the issue permanently. If you could check which wires you bridged would help me a lot, so that I could do the sanity check before breaking down to the PCB, Im worried that if I damage it and need to replace I have a 1 week lead time Sweden from the UK and a bill of 500Gbp which I would rather avoid. Thanks again... Andrew |
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6th Nov 2019 9:20pm |
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