↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Polished Brake Discs
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 2 12>
Print this entire topic · 
Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6329

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Polished Brake Discs
So in the process of buying new rear calipers but should I be getting new discs?

with the depth of wear of normally wouldn't give it a moments thoughs as the discs appear to be fine in terms of little wear depth wise and no grooves.

my concern is hope mirror like they are / smooth like glass and therefore I presume little friction?

can / should I just go round them with some wet n dry?

Click image to enlarge
Post #524944 18th Apr 2016 9:41am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
RED-DOT



Member Since: 29 Jun 2009
Location: stirling
Posts: 2363

Scotland 
Wet n Dry might give you .001% more braking efficiency. Its a Defender not a F1 car! Just change the pads and it will be fine. 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS..
Post #524952 18th Apr 2016 10:15am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2326

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
Mirror finish is a good sign.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #524961 18th Apr 2016 10:48am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6329

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
not sure if we're talking about the same thing here. I've yet to own a car that has discs with a mirror finish. they've all had what appears to be a very slightly grooved / brushed finish.

I'm not looking to improve the braking over and above standard but I've thinking (and I'm not sure) that with this polished finish (other 3 are what I'd class as normal) is breaking less effectively and occasionally giving a strange noise when slowly down?
Post #524969 18th Apr 2016 11:27am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6329

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Its amazing how easily some are 100% satisfied......

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131777791920?...rmvSB=true

at that price for them I wouldn't be very pleased !


Off Topic
Post #524972 18th Apr 2016 11:55am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
RED-DOT



Member Since: 29 Jun 2009
Location: stirling
Posts: 2363

Scotland 
Shiny discs dont hold dirt which can impregnate the pad surface so i would say you have good discs. 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS..
Post #524974 18th Apr 2016 12:08pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6329

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
thanks Red-dot. I certainly can't argue with your logic but do have to wonder why they are so shiny. never had it before and having been out and about lunch time walking and checking out everyone's dics.....none appea to be like mine? They all seem to have the matt finish.

anyway I'll not worry too much as I need to sort the calipers first but was thinking if the discs need to go then clearly it would be best to do so while changing the calipers rather than at a late date.

Thumbs Up
Post #525002 18th Apr 2016 2:19pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055

The cheapest but by far best brake material discs are made from CAST IRON.NOBODY makes brake disc from stainless steel,EVER.I you got a mirror finish then you have been ripped off good style,by radiated cheap crap steel.

Cast iron rusts,period.If you don't want discs to rust then buy ceramic or carbon fibre discs for THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS of pounds,it's that simple.

Cast iron discs rust,period!! Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
Post #525014 18th Apr 2016 3:13pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6329

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Confused

they're the originals. I don't doubt what you've said but they're the original discs yet as per the photo this one has a 'wonderful mirror' finish to it?

I know not why?
Post #525016 18th Apr 2016 3:16pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
RustyM



Member Since: 28 Oct 2013
Location: Africa/The Med
Posts: 222

England 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
I have seen this when a brake caliper has stuck on and heated up the disc, it can cause the disc to warp and then vibrate under braking. If it was me I would change the discs at the same time as the caliper’s. You would then be happy you did Thumbs Up

Good luck and I have my finger X'd it keeps going well for you Very Happy 90 & Wolf
110 XS
Previously owned SI SII SIIa SIII & Light weight (air portable)
Post #525020 18th Apr 2016 3:22pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
RustyM wrote:
You would then be happy you did Thumbs Up


I seriously doubt it! Rolling with laughter Bow down Rolling with laughter

Pee on your disks and leave them overnight they'll look as scabby as everyone else's in the morning and we can then move on, but after we have please don't re-inspect your discs or just don't use the brakes. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #525029 18th Apr 2016 4:12pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6329

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Laughing

I don't think the disc(s) are warped. I have on occasion sensed what I could have mistaken for a warped disc when braking but this hasn't been regular it's clearly not warped.

Mal - it's only taken 5+ years but tis driving well and at present there's nothing I have concerns over (bar the rear calipers) Thumbs Up

The only thing after that I can think of is corrosion and up grades. Thumbs Up

Ps. Don't do it.....

Keep the 90.
Post #525132 18th Apr 2016 8:10pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
mick



Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 2109

England 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Rimini Red
Take em off and send em to me mine have 100 K + on the originals discs bout ready for some more Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter
Post #525142 18th Apr 2016 8:58pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
tuesdayfox



Member Since: 23 Jun 2013
Location: Sydney,OZ
Posts: 129

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Zambezi Silver
I recently changed the rear brake pads and rotors.
I was told both the brake pads and disc should be changed at the same time because there may be uneven warp/groove on rotors that prevent proper bedding of brake pads.

also, brake pads cost just almost as much as brake rotors...
so it wouldn't be cost effective to just replace brake pads if you just want to save a few bucks on rotos and keep ruining new brake pads.
my 2cents.
cheers
Martin
Post #525200 19th Apr 2016 7:43am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6329

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I'd fully agree on changing the rotors if they were in poor shape i.e loads of grooves etc.

I've replaced just pads on numerous occasions and haven't had an issue. I would always replace an axle at a time and not just one corner of course but I see no reason to replace the rotors un-necessarily and from what I've seen the rotors are about 5 - 6 times the cost of the pads?

thanks all the same.

back to the original question - should I just attack the rotors with some wet n dry. I put new pads in the weekend so I'll have a look to see if the polished finish is subsiding and then take a view on it.
Post #525201 19th Apr 2016 7:49am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 2 12>
All times are GMT + 1 Hour

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums