![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Crossmember Coating/Paint/Rustproofing.. |
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Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2774 ![]() ![]() |
so my rear crossmember looks like this...
![]() Click image to enlarge and i want to touch it up. Im at my uncles house in a few days, and he has all the masking/spraying/priming eqpmt needed and im wondering whats the best thing to do? Ill waxoyl the inside and sand back a bit, any recommendations on paint? was thinking stonechip or is that too 'soft' - ive also never seen how the finish is over a large flat area? hammerite metal paint maybe? PS. Is it common that rear X members have 'thinning' paint? seen a few around. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated ![]() Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quite common as the finish is so thin, it usually responds to a wipe over with one of the waxy rust inhibitors but the effect wears off after a time. Personally I wouldn't use stone chip on a late model Defender X member, nor would I soil it with Hammerite which is quite a brittle finish once it dries. My choice would be for refinishing in a decent satin black which will look stock and professional. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2774 ![]() ![]() |
When you say satin black do you mean just a halfords aerosol? Would you use a primer? Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've got a litre tin, compressor, masking tape etc so that's what I'd use but if you don't have the paint a decent rattle can or two will do the job. I would rub down, prime then topcoat. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2774 ![]() ![]() |
Yes, sounds like a good plan! Cheers for advice
![]() Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2774 ![]() ![]() |
I've had those done too, but don't see what they can do about the Xmember? Has anyone had it done under corrosion warranty? Cheers, David Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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Sonarmender Member Since: 04 Apr 2013 Location: Guz Posts: 338 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Don't know about the Landrover warranty but I would do it like this
1. Remove tow-bar. 2. Lightly rub all areas that you are going to paint with a red scotch brite, soaked in water or panel wipe (provides a key for primer). 3. Mask of all areas you don't wish to paint or get overspray on 4. Use a degreaser (panel wipe) to clean all areas to be painted. 5. Apply a couple of coats of either red oxide or zinc oxide (acts as primer and helps with corrosion protection. (allow 10 mins between coats)). 6. Apply 4 coats of matt or gloss, (your own preference) black aerosol paint or more if you need to, remember light coats are better so you don't get paint sag. ( pay the extra for good quality aerosol as cheap ones contain less paint pigment). Almost forgot, paints like hammerite are okay, but don't tend to spray as well as cellulose type aerosols, and once on can be a pig to repaint, as they tend to react with almost anything, even hammerite. Don't forget the dust mask or better still a respirator. ![]() Stand back and admire a job well done. ![]() Any probs you can always PM me. You only have one life, live it....forget the cost. 90XS Hardtop Last edited by Sonarmender on 3rd Aug 2013 11:33pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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Generaldej Member Since: 30 Dec 2012 Location: Milbury Heath Posts: 82 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() Click image to enlarge I used this satin black spray ( used two cans) which I got from B&Q. I used various grades of wet n dry to remove deep scratches and used the same make primer. Took approx half a day to do. When I got my Landy about a year ago the dealer had done a tarting up job on it with it peeling off in about 6 months and overspray onto the body work. I removed the handles and sprayed them separately. I will do the front bumper when I have some spare time. |
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Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2774 ![]() ![]() |
[quote="Sonarmender"]Don't know about the Landrover warranty but I would do it like this
1. Remove tow-bar. 2. Lightly rub all areas that you are going to paint with a red scotch brite, soaked in water or panel wipe (provides a key for primer). 3. Mask of all areas you don't wish to paint or get overspray on 4. Use a degreaser (panel wipe) to clean all areas to be painted. 5. Apply a couple of coats of either red oxide or zinc oxide (acts as primer and helps with corrosion protection. (allow 10 mins between coats)). 6. Apply 4 coats of matt or gloss, (your own preference) black aerosol paint or more if you need to, remember light coats are better so you don't get paint sag. ( pay the extra for good quality aerosol as cheap ones contain less paint pigment). Almost forgot, paints like hammerite are okay, but don't tend to spray as well as cellulose type aerosols, and once on can be a pig to repaint, as they tend to react with almost anything, even hammerite. Don't forget the dust mask or better still a respirator. ![]() Stand back and admire a job well done. ![]() Any probs you can always PM me.[/quote Very detailed, thanks! Will follow advice and post results on here Cheers, David Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1990 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I think matt black would be my choice
![]() 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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WelshGas Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Vale of Glamorgan Posts: 935 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
My 90 is now over 3 years old and done 38,000. All I do is wipe the rear cross member and front bumper with ACF50 each time I wash it. Still in good condition and NO rust, as yet.
![]() ![]() Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php |
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Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2774 ![]() ![]() |
No rust on mine either, I just want to get a more even paint finish and protect it some more. For some reason LR don't seem to have painted some xmembers very well, and it stands out on my black 110. Cheers, David Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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adafish Member Since: 30 Mar 2009 Location: atherstone Posts: 1387 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Tim @ Mobilecentre had his done by Will @ Sense of Adventure in a Stone Chip spray, turned out really good. Putting Dreams on Drives at JLR Solihull..
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Sphere Member Since: 26 Apr 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 725 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
What's the stone chip like ada as I was going to have mine done when it goes in to have a few scratches done not sure what the best finish is.
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