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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2525
United Kingdom 
Lightning, I’m aware you have ordered a good pump to refill the gearbox, which if cleaned correctly is also good for filling the transfer box and diffs with their spec oils.

However if anyone else wants to know of a cheap and accurate method to fill the gearbox, then a 1.2 metre length of 12mm Outside diameter clear plastic pipe does the job nicely. Just feed it from the engine bay , under the body and into the fill hole of the gearbox ensuring you hang it so it’s supported with no dips. Stick a funnel in the engine bay end and pore the correct measured amount of oil into the funnel. About £5 -10 in total. I purchased a 1.5m length and use the 300mm cutoff length with funnel for filling the transfer and diffs.
Post #1077406 13th Oct 2025 4:15pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 18015
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
By clang I mean, I suppose, thud. Make sure the pedal is fully down.
Post #1077409 13th Oct 2025 4:37pm
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lightning



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: High Peak, Derbyshire
Posts: 3489
United Kingdom 
Yeah, now l've cut away the corner of the heavy duty floor mat, l can feel the pedal hitting the end stop.



Click image to enlarge
Post #1077416 13th Oct 2025 6:45pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3639
Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
On later vehicles, the clutch pedal box has a bolt to limit the down movement of the pedal. Thats the thud that you should hear. Only very early vehicles had the foot well as a limit.

As for master cylinders, I had what supposedly been a highly regarded brand (with its associated price) fail in just 8 months. When I opened it up, I found a burr along the top of the piston (just beneath the seal) that gouged the bore beyond a possible rebuild repair. It was always hard for me to get more than 2 years - locally need to use the clutch A LOT until I modified the piston to expand the seals a bit more. It made a massive difference.

Not done to the Puma yet, but on my old 90 I am using dot5, not to be mistaken with dot5.1, which is silicone based. As it will eventually leak, at least I do not have a mess to the paintwork. Dot4 is highly corrosive. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1077420 13th Oct 2025 8:22pm
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HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila
Posts: 813
Philippines 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
jbcollier wrote:
"They all leak into the driver side floor (LHD) eventually."

Define eventually. Everything wears and leaks "eventually". I would not find it surprising if I had to replace the clutch master every four to five years in regular use. The clutch is used constantly and always to its full travel -- unlike a brake master which doesn't really move that much.

Every year? That would strike me as excessive. Unless it is used commercially, driven most days, and all day long, then I would hope for maybe every two years?

If there is no visible bore wear, you can just fit a kit.


My Defender is my daily driver. Clutch is operated frequently given local driving conditions and horrendous traffic jams.

I reckon it took about a year before I started seeing the occasional drops on the driver side floor mat. It's not a full fledge weep like one of my previous clutch masters but you can see the fluid form a trail over a couple of days especially when the mat is dusty or covered in dried mud.

I experience the darkening of the clutch fluid at about 6 months in after a new master cylinder. I just have the fluid purged at the next service and monitor. No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy
Post #1077435 14th Oct 2025 2:21am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 21012
United Kingdom 
Fluid on the clutch goes dark fairly rapidly, but depends really quite how much it has.

Once you know how, it is pretty easy and fast to change the clutch fluid in no time, you’ve just got to be gentle with the bleed point as you can break it if over tightened, so you close it by hand nothing more, it doesn’t need tightening in any way and opening just a little.
A cheap vac bleeder will work, but will gravity bleed anyway.. ____\We|Will|Win/___
____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
_//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_
Post #1077484 14th Oct 2025 6:29pm
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