 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Transit clutch and Output shaft change, couple of questions. |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16943   
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I did wonder if this from Amazon would work, essentially similar to the SP tool but less than a tenth of the cost.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B083FV...&psc=1 |
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16th Apr 2024 3:11pm |
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| Zed Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: In the woods Posts: 3052 
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For £12 that’s well worth a punt. WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm. |
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16th Apr 2024 4:35pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 281 
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I think the poster is referring to the DIY method of removal of the spiggot bearing.. You can use the head of a bolt passed down to the back of the spiggot bearing cage and as long as its held tight behind the cage.. ( Usually necessary to knock the back of the cage housing off) by inserting a spacer of some sort into the bore to prevent it moving you can then use the threaded section of the bolt along with a collar, nut, and washer to draw the bearing out of the flywheel... Have a look on the tube.. There are a number of vids on it I believe.. I ended up removing my spiggot by adapting a fitting for the slide hammer to sit behind the cage in a similar manner to the bolt head mentioned above.. That was after an attempt with a die grinder to destroy the cage.. Which I gave up on😩.. After the job was done I bought the set of pullers that black wolf has linked to as they seemed to be what would have done the job if I'd had them initially and they seemed a good price.. Stable door and bolting horse come to mind 🙈, but I have the tool now just in case and it looks adequate👍 |
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16th Apr 2024 4:35pm |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 126 
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Ohh, makes sense now. I am definitely getting a "special" tool to do this. I won't be doing it at my home so I wanna avoid extra ways to delay things
 Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD) |
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16th Apr 2024 5:02pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19661
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Just be careful these things suddenly don’t snap, break or get jammed in somewhere or that can then cause more of a problem than you started with.
It can happen, especially if the base material might be chinesium. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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16th Apr 2024 5:07pm |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 126
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Yup, defo a good point. What seals are usually getting changed for new when doing the clutch, the outputshaft and splitting the Gear box and the transfercase? The oil seal on the gearbox output is supposed to be changed? The transfer case output one?
I ordered already most of the parts, now checking the little things to be sure I have everything for Dday. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD) |
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16th Apr 2024 5:28pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3219  
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Many do the rear crank seal, and many of those many regret doing it. So suggest you read this before doing it, so you will not be another one of those many.
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic78124.html 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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17th Apr 2024 6:13am |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 126
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Thanks but I am not planning on removing the flywheel
 Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD) |
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17th Apr 2024 6:58am |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 126
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Pfff, been working on it today, it is taking quite a bit of time..
But at least I am not doing it for nothing.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I was doing good removing all the bolts on the bell housing, but then impossible to remove the gear box.. it's 8 bolts right? 6 on 1 side, 2 on the engine bay side? I wiggled the hell on of it, it moved like 1mm on the bottom part, but that's pretty much it. I'll look at it again tomorrow, any tricks?! Thanks guys, I'd love to be done with it tomo 🙃😉 Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD) |
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7th May 2024 9:27pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 281
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I thought it was 10 bolts securing the bell housing 🤔.. I'll check that tomorrow if you want.. As you say there are two from the engine side but there are a couple quite high up that are awkward to get at..and easier to access if you can tilt the back of the box down... That might be what's stopping the box dropping off..
I don't know whether you have, but I undo the intercooler hoses and the top hose from the radiator so the engine can pivot freely on its two mounts... |
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7th May 2024 9:54pm |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 126
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That would make a lot of sense If I missed 2 bolts. I kind of hope it is that. Thx Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
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7th May 2024 10:29pm |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 126
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Well, here I was thinking the 2 top bolts were fairly accessible... I indeed only got 8 bolts... I glad I stopped not too late last night 😅
Click image to enlarge Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD) |
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8th May 2024 9:22am |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 281
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Ahhh I see you are sorted.. And they are out👍
I had a quick look and whilst I can't actually see the whole way round the housing I'm fairly confident it is a 10 bolt job if memory serves me right.. Is yours a 2.2 with dpf.. If so did you have to remove the dpf to drop the box?? |
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8th May 2024 10:19am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1801
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
It looks like the front section of the exhaust is in the picture on the floor to the left of the blue trolley jack. |
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8th May 2024 3:10pm |
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