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Meta87



Member Since: 05 Aug 2022
Location: Innsbruck
Posts: 28
Austria 
TD5 No Starter
Hi appreciated Defender2 community,

I've got a problem with a not starting TD5 engine. The specific car is a 110 from 2001 with only 16,5k on the watch. The car got a nuts and bolts renovation within the past 16 month and was therefore not started for about that time. Also the tank was taken out during that period due to welding and was almost empty for about 4 month. Now almost everything is rebuild properly but the car won't start properly.

What I already did was initiating the "priming method" several times (ignition + 5 times acc pedal) without success. The fuel pump is still whining for quite a while after ignition is turned so it seems that there maybe is still air left in the system. I also checked if all the fuel lines are connected correctly and they are. I also changed the fuel filter to the Mahle one, maybe that's the problem. Fuel level is a bit over half.
The battery has enough voltage (about 14,7V) so this shouldn't be the problem either. One time the engine was running for about 30 seconds before dying out probably due to fuel shortage because the pump began whining about 10 seconds after start.

Do you guys have any other guesses except for a broken fuel pump? I really would like to get around tank dropping again.

As always thanks in advance and kindest regards!

Chris
Post #1067025 4th May 2025 7:14pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1263
France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Since everything has been disconnected it should be easy enough to disconnect the line at the fuel cooler/heater and check for proper flow.

There are a number of things that can go wrong especially after a rebuild. Yes the pump is suspect but will all these hoses you could have mixed up the connections. Also the filter housing has the habit of corroding which can lead to an air leak. Any airleak in the system and you will find long cranking every time which is annoying.

Check all the connections, but first make sure you have proper flow. The flow is pretty strong, fills up a 1 ltr water bottle in no time!

Most people cut a hatch in the floor to get to the pump, but obviously up to you.
Post #1067030 4th May 2025 8:00pm
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Meta87



Member Since: 05 Aug 2022
Location: Innsbruck
Posts: 28
Austria 
Thanks for your fast response! I'm gonna check the high pressure fuel lines to see if there's enough fuel coming (or any fuel at all). Another thing I noticed is that the oil pressure symbol on the dashboard stays red during ignition and won't go away. Could this be related to the fuel pump issue, 'cause motor oil level seems fine and I don't smell any diesel or anything.
Post #1067165 6th May 2025 6:39pm
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 830
England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
Does this help at all?



Click image to enlarge
Post #1067167 6th May 2025 6:56pm
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Meta87



Member Since: 05 Aug 2022
Location: Innsbruck
Posts: 28
Austria 
Yes definately! Thanks! I need to check the green line at number 13 to see if any fuel comes to the engine at all and if the pressure is right up. But apart from that I really think I have an „air leakage“ problem. Maybe at the fuel filter. I exchanged the old one with a new Mahle one. Maybe the rubber ring isn‘t tight enough. I‘m gonna check all this on weekend.
Post #1067169 6th May 2025 7:06pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5924
2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Basic. But have you shoved some brake cleaner into the air intake and got it running off that??

It will help draw fuel through and show if a fuel issue or not.
Post #1067175 6th May 2025 9:35pm
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Meta87



Member Since: 05 Aug 2022
Location: Innsbruck
Posts: 28
Austria 
Update:
I checked the fuel line connections and the fuel delivery to the engine today. Connections are in the right place but no fuel enters the engine. That’s verified now.
I also measured the mV of the fuel pump fuse to see if it is properly working. It gets/draws enough juice for the HP Stage to work (online test reference). So my guess is that the pump is basically working but maybe the filter element is full of debris or whatever to stop the delivery. The fuel tank itself was not in the car for about 6 month with just a little bit of fuel due to the weight. Maybe it got ”sticky“? 2nd guess is the pump itself. What are your thoughts on this?
Post #1067508 11th May 2025 8:37pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5924
2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Get yourself a fuel pressure gauge on the system by the Cylinder head.

Ultimately I can see you needing access to the fuel pump.

Unless you can get it to miraculously bleed itself
Post #1067510 11th May 2025 8:57pm
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 830
England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
I think should brace yourself for the misery of dropping the fuel tank.... The pump pre filter could be blocked with black sludge like mine was

Click image to enlarge
Post #1067511 11th May 2025 9:05pm
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Meta87



Member Since: 05 Aug 2022
Location: Innsbruck
Posts: 28
Austria 
Was yours running again normally after getting rid of the sludge?
Post #1067515 12th May 2025 6:06am
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 830
England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
Yes, but I did fit a new pump
Post #1067517 12th May 2025 6:33am
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Meta87



Member Since: 05 Aug 2022
Location: Innsbruck
Posts: 28
Austria 
Ok thanks. I was thinking about using the external replacement pump as sold from Nakatanenga. https://www.nakatanenga.de/en/diesel-repla...kit/PU-TD5
Does anybody have experiences with that solution?
Post #1067523 12th May 2025 8:40am
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Hazza



Member Since: 10 Jan 2011
Location: North Yorkshire / Leeds
Posts: 229
United Kingdom 1990 Defender 110 Td5 HT Bronze Green
I run an external pump on my td5 (mine is a conversion, so I could pick and choose!) - the Nakatanenga one looks like a walbro/Ti automotive pump which should work well. I've got a Sytec 044 on mine. An external pump works well, and is more universally replaceable, but you do lose some of the air-bleeding features of the standard pump.

Worth noting that you'll still have to drop the tank and 'gut' the td5 pump to use the Naka external pump, so I'd probably just fit a new VDO pump if I was in your situation. 1990 Defender 110 200TDI Camper - now converted to Td5 power
Post #1067545 12th May 2025 2:16pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1263
France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Or you put a hatch in the floor.

Sod's law says that if you drop the tank you be doing that 3 times more, while if you put in a hatch your pump will last forever...
Post #1067553 12th May 2025 6:56pm
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