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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365   
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Pete, I don't have any before and after mpg figures I'm afraid. The 1.2 ratios will lower your revs by approx 15% for any given speed. There will be a fuel saving benefit when cruising but the biggest noticeable difference is in the noise. The ratio change also makes it '15% harder to pull away' which is why people often combine it with some sort of performance tune to help compensate.
Remember to use both panel dampening (butyl) material and then MLV or similar soundproofing material. So many people just apply butyl which doesn't actually do any soundproofing in itself. Lots of pics on my build thread.. TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread 2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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29th Jun 2023 8:46am |
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| Register Member Since: 11 Jun 2023 Location: London Posts: 82
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Andy - thanks for the info.
Having now looked at hundreds of photos in the build threads (thanks Wyvern - rockin' that red) I have a better view on the game plan. Aim is to strip the interior (except drivers seat) this w/e. Obviously take it for a run to get the full dB experience. Off to hunt around YT for how to remove the head lining. Pete Last edited by Register on 16th Jul 2023 9:57pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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29th Jun 2023 8:47pm |
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| Register Member Since: 11 Jun 2023 Location: London Posts: 82
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Limited progress as I got rather focussed on security worries.
Fitting the X-defend wasn’t difficult and is a terrific piece of kit. Also gave me a clear view of the incoming water.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Also could use a grommet for the LHD steering column opening, if anyone has the reference. Explains the noise, heat and aroma. Click image to enlarge Stripped out all the rear seats which are available if anyone needs them. Also the steel bracing and seatbelts etc. Someone did a very nice job of replacing the fuel pump. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Next step is a lot of sound deadening. Tempted to fit a Roamerdrive whilst I’ll have all the internals out. Then onto the camper fit out. Pete |
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16th Jul 2023 9:56pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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That large hole is actually where the RHD AC pipes would have passed through the bulkhead. It is a 52mm grommet that you need, or PM me and I will send you one as I had to buy four of them just last week to plug the very same hole in Miffy.
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20th Jul 2023 4:37pm |
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| Register Member Since: 11 Jun 2023 Location: London Posts: 82
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hi, thanks for the info on the grommet.
No AC so no issue blanking the hole. I think I've sent you a PM (its in my out box?), but let me know what it costs. Also 11 sqm of sound deadening arrived so lots to go at. Click image to enlarge Thanks Pete |
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21st Jul 2023 1:00pm |
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| shanecl Member Since: 20 Mar 2013 Location: Louth Posts: 459  
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When I was laying sound deadening i wiped the panel down with some panel wipe, then used a aheat gun to slightly heat the panel and then i would slightly heat the sound deadening also. Made it a lot more pliable as opposed to it cold after being in a garge over night. I have a small 4inch roller i used to push it flat onto the panel.
Be so careful to fight the urge to use your fingers to run along the edges to push down, the tin foil is like a surgeons blade and when you feel it its too late and a lovely deep cut in the finger. |
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21st Jul 2023 1:18pm |
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| Register Member Since: 11 Jun 2023 Location: London Posts: 82
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Thanks for the heads up on that. I like the idea of heat and a four inch roller.
Might also come in handy when I try to 'roll out' a few door dents once I've got the cards off. Pete |
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22nd Jul 2023 9:16am |
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| Evil Elsie Member Since: 25 Feb 2023 Location: Cumbria Posts: 159 
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😀 I do wish this was posted 3 weeks ago. My thumb has only just become reusable after doing the above.. 👍👍 2002 Land Rover 110 Td5 Utility 1990 Suzuki GSXR 1100L 1980 Yamaha RD 350LC 1976 Yamaha RD 400C |
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22nd Jul 2023 10:29am |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 903  
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Register…, using a heat gun or hair dryer is a good idea, however I heated the black sticky side of the butyl matting rather than the panel. It makes it uber sticky. This is the roller you’ll want and small putty knife to get into creases and corners. Food for thought
Good luck Click image to enlarge 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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22nd Jul 2023 6:45pm |
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| Register Member Since: 11 Jun 2023 Location: London Posts: 82
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Elsie - sorry to hear you’re suffering. All in a good cause, says the guy just heading into the space.
4RF RDS - thanks for the heads up. I’m hoping the warm weather will help. Bought a wooden roller from Toolstation that looks ideal. Still in the demolition stage and got this far. Click image to enlarge Is it worth removing the tunnel? Is there anything under there I can stick deadening to? Roamerdrive whilst I’m in here? Thanks Pete |
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23rd Jul 2023 4:06pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Hi Pete. The Roamerdrive is a great mod for this who have the standard 1:1.44 transfer box as it keeps things standard but has the ability to have splitter gears in high and low box, plus the convenience of quieter cruising. Gets my vote.
As for the tunnel, I covered it with the butyl mat and used a flexible sound deadening mat draped under it and then the standard foam gear pad as well. This keeps the worst of the heat out of the footwells and I am very happy with it. I did not butyl the seatbox, just the footwells and bulkhead. The seatbox is covered with a Wright Offroad mat, which is superb and incredibly hard wearing. |
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23rd Jul 2023 4:45pm |
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| Register Member Since: 11 Jun 2023 Location: London Posts: 82
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Guy - hi, I assume I’m on standard not disco ratios so am definitely tempted by the Roamerdrive
I plan on ‘plastering’ everything with sound deadening and have removed some very substantial 3d formed matting from the footwells/tunnel, which I’ll put back afterwards. How far up the bulkhead should I go? Is it worth removing the dash? I haven’t disturbed the electrics, but the alarm now goes off a couple of minutes after I lock the doors. Could this be because I’ve removed the interior and the under seat panels with a clear view to the road? Is the sensor misreading the volume or ??? Thanks. Pete |
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23rd Jul 2023 10:28pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 903
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Personally I think it is a waste of time and energy doing the bulkhead. The rubber from factory does the job. The butyl pads are designed for stopping resonance on larger panels like door skins, roof, floor panels, underseat boxes and lids. So… Your call. 🤷♂️
As for the alarm yes it’s the volumetric sensor. Pull it and unplug it while you do the work. Good luck 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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23rd Jul 2023 10:49pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Hi Pete. If you are really really lucky the ID sticker will still be on the back of the LT230:
If you still have the 1:1.41 then you still have the LT230 your Defender came from the factory with. This is where I am going to differ with 4RF RDS in that I do think that adding the butyl to the footwells then having the formed Wright off-road matting on top does reduce the noise and adequately insulates the footwells from both heat and cold. Footwells get cold so quickly in a Defender. So to answer your question I have taken the butyl from the floor up the 40 degree slope and on up to the boxed bulkhead. The floor I have gone with just the Wright off-road over tunnel mat (incidentally it is the same as the Ashcroft kit) and standard floor mats with a lip to retain the Welsh mud a little. I do think that adding butyl within the bulkhead is firstly a big job and secondly probably not worth the effort. The Defender did at one point come with foiled closed foam on the engine side of the bulkhead. The volumetric sensor is usually the first thing that gets unplugged because it does trigger the alarm during windy conditions as the flat panels flex. |
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24th Jul 2023 8:40am |
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