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Rickydodah



Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1091

I'm pretty certain that the universal is okay for the transfer box but the main gearbox uses a fully synthetic oil. I'd check the speck of the universal because it used to be semi synthetic. Thumbs Up I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

Post #438250 16th Jul 2015 1:00pm
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Bravemeister



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 12

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tamar Blue

There is a sticky on defeder2.net for what ouls to use and what quantities Smile

You can also go on the comma oils website, type your reg in and it will tell you exactly what you need and how much.

I notice you havent included the t/f box..? Why change others and not that..?

Post #438256 16th Jul 2015 1:23pm
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DaveGL



Member Since: 19 Dec 2014
Location: Surrey
Posts: 57

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Cairns Blue

The transfer box was done a while ago when a leak was being investigated.

Is this not the sticky thread you refer to?

I ended up getting advice from advanced factors and opie oils.

Thanks

Post #438258 16th Jul 2015 1:28pm
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jk84



Member Since: 17 Feb 2015
Location: Wherever my Defender takes me...
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green

Thanks for this post Martin, really helpful for someone whoís brand new to car DIY. So I combined your instructions for a Puma 2.4 with my newly purchased Haynes manual for TD5 and off to dig into my Puma 2.2 Shocked Really hoping I wonít make a mess of it!

Oil and filter ordered now from Tim (Oilman) along with a torque wrench, set of extension bars, 13 and 27 sockets and set of oil drip pans. Should all arrive tomorrow so with just under 4.5k on the clock she should have her oil changed this weekend if all goes well.

I have two questions, most likely extremely silly ones to all of you seasoned DIY chaps.

The torque wrench I ordered starts with 28nm (I struggled to find one which would start with a lower torque for a sensible price, well sensible to me) and Martinís recommendation for the oil drain plug is 23nm. Iím worried that if I just use my feeling for when itís tightened properly, it will leak, considering my utter lack of experience. So am I running a risk of damaging the plug if I tighten it up using the 28nm setting?

Secondly, where do you dispose of the old oil? I figured I canít just dump it in the bin or pour it down the drain obviously. Do you just use your local recycling centre? Iím guessing they should accept it - called the council, they were Ďhelpfulí as always, so just wondering what the experience here is on the forum.


Last edited by jk84 on 10th Sep 2015 1:33pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #453893 10th Sep 2015 11:09am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 1867

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

Hello jk84

Q.1

Your Minimum 28NM Torque Wrench Setting to tighten the Oil Drain Plug (13mm / JLR Spec' 23NM) will be OK.

My reasoning is this is a Steel Bolt into a Steel Sump with a good thread depth.
Fit a new Rubber Drain Plug Seal, which will also 'cushion' the tightening of this.

+5NM is a relatively small additional amount of force to apply to this situation.
I would also hazard a guess that the majority of Drain Plugs are replaced and 'nipped tight' without ever seeing a Torgue Wrench, the 'mechanic' that taught me (first car) always said don't talk about it 'feel it' when a reference to Torque setting was mentioned, in truth its good to follow these where possible, and certain bearings a shafts should be spot on. The Sump Plug is a very safe one to be 'more or less' right.

If you are worried and have access to a vice, clamp your 13mm socket, (or a M13 Bolt), so that it wont move 'feel' what 28NM is like when the Torque Wrench 'clicks' and then go straight to the Drain Plug and apply slightly less force, not scientific, but it will help you judge when to stop just short of 28NM.

Run Engine until Oil is warm and check for leaks (both Sump Plug and Oil Filter Cup / Housing)...tighten slightly if required.

Q.2
Yes take your old Engine Oil to a recycling centre, phone first to check, but most now take this.

Good Luck SKIP.

Post #453919 10th Sep 2015 1:30pm
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jk84



Member Since: 17 Feb 2015
Location: Wherever my Defender takes me...
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green

Excellent, thanks much as always SKIP, really appreciated Bow down A bit nerve-wrecking when doing these things for the first time so every little helps Embarassed

Post #453920 10th Sep 2015 1:35pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 2931

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green

don't buy a brit part sump plug total rubbish DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy

Post #453973 10th Sep 2015 7:02pm
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jk84



Member Since: 17 Feb 2015
Location: Wherever my Defender takes me...
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green

Thank you sir. Actually, will leave the plug replacement for later, forgot about it. Hope it won't leak reusing the old one. Well, and if it does, will get a new one - no Brit Part Wink

Post #454055 10th Sep 2015 11:44pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 1867

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

Hello jk84,

LR90XS2011 has a point...sorry to point you back to the Drain Plug.

Whilst I'm not against all Britpart's OEM Drain Plugs... Thumbs Up

The main point is to defiantly replace the Drain Plug or actually to be more precise the rubber seal
I don't think Land Rover sell the seals separately, some independents do, but the whole thing is <£10
from memory.

You cant replace this later, as you say, without draining all the oil....which should never be put back
into the vehicle...however clean an 'operation' you may try to execute, (any grit is really bad).

When you remove the drain plug you disturb the rubber washer and they are designed to be tightened up once
from a near perfect round condition to a compressed seal, this will sit in a new position if reused and may leak.

The most expensive aspect of doing DIY is your time, followed by the oil in this case, my advice is change the
drain plug (bolt and washer).

Some vehicles use copper washers as seals and whilst they can be reused (by tightening them up a bit tighter) the advice there is also to replace, these are a few pence only, so really no excuse not to other than a lazy mechanic!.

DIY Oil Change...pleased you started this ? SKIP.

Post #454092 11th Sep 2015 9:40am
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tonyhedge



Member Since: 07 Jul 2015
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 101

2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Montalcino Red

jk84 asked "Secondly, where do you dispose of the old oil?"

Hi. Wherever I have lived, the local council recycling centre has had a big tank for taking waste oil, and are usually really helpful. That's not a dent, it's a rivet. That's not a dent, it's a rivet. That's not ... oh! That is a dent!

2014 90 XS SW
1997 Discovery 300TdiS (retired to stud)
1966 Series IIA 88" (now my son's)
2001 Astra - I need something to go and buy the parts when the others are off the road!

Post #454098 11th Sep 2015 9:52am
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jk84



Member Since: 17 Feb 2015
Location: Wherever my Defender takes me...
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green

@ SKIP Ė very pleased indeed Very Happy It became a journey, but I can see the light now. I will get a new plug and seal as recommended! Individually available OEM part though seems to be a needle in a haystack Ė it looks to be only sold within a service pack (which I donít need as I got the filter now). On its own I have only found the aftermarket Britpart one (http://www.paddockspares.com/1013938-oil-drain-plug-and-rubber-seal.html) and then the copper washer which according to web is for pre 2006 trucks (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-213961A). Iím trying to get hold of my local dealerís parts department and maybe will be able to buy couple pieces from them, will need them in the future anyway. Or last resort will be giving Dan at Duckworth a call. Otherwise, Iíll go for the aftermarket Britpart one this time and then will get OEM service pack for the next 6k oil change, i.e. filter along with the plug and washers.

@ tonyhedge Ė thanks for that! Will refill the empty bottles from the new oil with the used one, luckily got a big one and couple 1 litre ones so should be easy to keep any spare new oil separate. And then take it down to the recycling centre trying to be as nice as possible so theyíll take it Wink

Post #454118 11th Sep 2015 12:02pm
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jk84



Member Since: 17 Feb 2015
Location: Wherever my Defender takes me...
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green

My local dealer seems to have these in stock, only couple quid a piece, so I may still be able to do the oil change tomorrow as planned Thumbs Up

In the end have found the OEM part on ebay too, not sure if it includes the washer though.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEFENDER-2007-to...4cf30b90de

Post #454154 11th Sep 2015 3:19pm
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green

First of all thank you very much for an excellent thread. I have just ordered my oils and I feel suitably well informed to tackle this task myself. My local dealer charges 800 euros (600 sterling) to change the fluids. So I have probably saved enough to buy some LED headlamps for the winter !!! I have one question though. Gearbox oil. Is there any need to change this at 100,000 km when the manual says change it at 200,000 km?

Post #454425 12th Sep 2015 1:18pm
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Iktank



Member Since: 08 Nov 2014
Location: Porthcawl
Posts: 194

Wales 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey

Advice please
I know what the service book says but what is a realistic service regime for dropping the oils to the

- Diffs
- Gearbox
- Transfer box

I have been changing the engine oil every 6,000

Thanks

Post #454693 13th Sep 2015 4:40pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 1867

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

When to change the Oils... Question

Minimum when Land Rover say, ref Workshop Manual / Maintenance Check Sheet... Exclamation

Best Practice when it needs it... Thumbs Up

This will depend on how your vehicle is used, and if pushed hard, or used in tough environments
then everything will need more attention.

This is what the Maintenance Check Sheet for a 2.4tdci says

Service intervals between A and B 12,000 Miles
(all distances given in Miles)










Click image to enlarge
 SKIP.

Post #454886 14th Sep 2015 9:51am
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