 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Swivel Kit for 2011 Puma |
 
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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 621   
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Try Advanced Factors. They’ll have the quality parts your after.
https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/land-rov...16-5-c.asp 2008 2.4 110 Utility XS. |
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16th Jan 2023 3:24pm |
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| ChrisDefender Member Since: 29 Oct 2015 Location: Midlands Posts: 445 
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Hi, thank you, indeed they do, but just which kit I need I am still at a loss to work out. They all look like BP kits to me (to the untrained eye!).
I guess I will have to give them a call and trust them. I just don't know what the LA to WA etc means! I have a 2011 90 HT non ABS basic truck. Cheers |
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16th Jan 2023 3:30pm |
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| Rosco Member Since: 03 Dec 2010 Location: Burntwood Posts: 1805 
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Chris, be interested to find out how you get on as I've the same job to do on mine
 2007 - Stornoway Grey 90 XS SW - Gone
2002 - Black Discovery II - Gone 2014 - Montalcino Red 110 XS SW |
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16th Jan 2023 3:36pm |
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| ChrisDefender Member Since: 29 Oct 2015 Location: Midlands Posts: 445
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Hi,
I'll let you know if I ever work it out. To a non-mechanic it's a nightmare 
Cheers |
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16th Jan 2023 3:37pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16876 
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The LA / WA malarky is the parts catalogue clear-as-mud method for identifying model year. Characters 10 and 11 of the VIN will either be two letters, or on later vehicle a digit and a letter, and it is the tenth letter or digit (L and W in your examples) which identifies the year. The 11th character A indicates built at Solihull, which of course all proper Defenders were. L means '93/'94, W means '97/'98. The letter code has wrapped around as well, and I would expect that your 2011 vehicle probably has a VIN containing "BA" (it could be AA or CA depending on when it actually rolled down the line). I suggest that for a fuller understanding you visit a website such as this one which explains the whole VIN comprehensively (on this particular site, click the character of interest in the VIN for an explanation). AS far as your leak is concerned, it is possible that the swivels have worn and this has allowed the swivel housing to move slightly on the ball, resulting in a leak. Before committing to a full overhaul, it is worth checking for movement in the swivels since if there is movement you may be able to remove a shim to take up the lost movement and then recentre the seal on the ball to stop the leak. THis can work if the cause is movement in the swivels rather than a knackered seal. If the swivels are in good order but the seal in knackered, then a new seal is the answer. There are those who fit the seals by cutting them (so that the swivel ball doesn't have to be removed from the axle) but personally this is not an approach I would use. It is possible to withdraw the complete assembled ball, swivel housing and hub from the axle after the brake hose is disconnected (or the caliper is unbolted) and this allows the seal to be fitted properly (the assembly is heavy though). If the swivels and the seal are all knackered, then it is time for a full overhaul. Last edited by blackwolf on 16th Jan 2023 4:15pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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16th Jan 2023 4:00pm |
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| ChrisDefender Member Since: 29 Oct 2015 Location: Midlands Posts: 445
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Hi Blackwolf, thank you very much, that explains things a little. You're right in that I have BA in my number, and from that site I can see the exact date it was built.
I have contacted A Factors and they are hopefully getting back to me as to which kit I need that has the Timkin bearings rather than BP ones. I still don't fully understand what I need but I am getting closer! I will get my mechanic to have a good look. |
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16th Jan 2023 4:06pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16876
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If you want a further opportunity for confusion, the earlier vehicles with essentially the same axle (TD5 vehicles) used a bearing on the one of the pins (but I can't remember which, I think upper) with a conventional full array of rollers. This was "value engineered" on later vehicles to get rid of half the rollers and uses a nylon spacer to keep the few remaining rollers in the right place. Guess which version your vehicle will have been built with? Guess with version is stronger and will last longer? Yup, you guessed both!
It is quite a sensible upgrade to fit the earlier bearings, if you can find them, in place of the later ones. Unfortunately I don't have the part numbers to hand, but I will see if I can dig them out. |
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16th Jan 2023 4:19pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16876
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Part numbers, Defender 2007 on (from LRCAT):
Upper pin: TAR100040 - this is a service kit consisting of the pin which incorporates the inner race of the bearing, the bearing, the outer race, and an O-ring. Bearing for lower pin: 606666 Gasket for lower pin: FTC3674 Shims for upper pin to set preload: .003" = FRC2883 .005" = FRC2884 .010" = FRC2885 .030" = FRC2886 You are likely to need a selection but you won't know what until you do the job, you can of course reuse the originals (if there are any) but don't assume that the originals alone will allow you to set the correct bearing preload. Oil seal for the ball (the big one): FTC3401 The top pin was different on earlier vehicle as I mentioned. If you want to retrofit the stronger top bearing, you would need to use pin FTC2882 with bearing 60666 (identical to the bottom bearing) instead of TAR100040. The advantages are that the bearing is stronger and the inner race is not integral to the top pin. The same shims are used with either type. This configuration was used on VINs from LA930456 to XA159806. |
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16th Jan 2023 4:37pm |
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| ChrisDefender Member Since: 29 Oct 2015 Location: Midlands Posts: 445
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Hi,
Thank you for taking the time to explain this and list parts etc, it is all getting quite overwhelminig! Excuse my ignorance, but does this mean all the parts I need to complete the job (for the replacement of seals) are listed in your above post? If so that is fantastic. Just to be sure the Gasket for lower pin: FTC3674 is showing up in a search as a clip? Thank you. |
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16th Jan 2023 4:52pm |
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| hxk494 Member Since: 29 Apr 2013 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 237
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it's just a typo - FTC3647 1996 300Tdi Defender 110
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16th Jan 2023 6:20pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4395
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Ok, it is not a difficult task as long as you follow the manual and work methodically. The other advice I would give is to make sure during refitting you keep everything as clean as possible, especially when working out the shims and preload. On that note the easiest way I have found to calculate the correct shim thickness is using some thickish soulder. It compresses easily and all you have to do then is use a micrometer to work out the shim thickness. This is a great first thickness to start with, if not enough preload remove a small shim, etc. etc. Good luck |
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16th Jan 2023 6:28pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16876
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This, thank you hxk. My error swivel-chairing between screens. |
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16th Jan 2023 8:43pm |
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| Porny Site Sponsor Member Since: 31 Aug 2009 Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands Posts: 789 
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Some Britpart Stuff is actually pretty good - you just need to know what you are buying.
As your Defender is none ABS - you can use kit DA3179PG which uses all OEM parts. All in one kit. (PM me if I can help) This kit comes with Timken Bearings etc etc (and I've used quite a few of them - along with full Swivel Kits). I'm surprised your independent is fitting customer supplied parts - something I would never do as generally hassle and a big no no from my insurance company. (Also makes me liable for any failures as a disclaimer means nothing) Ian IRB The home of the first modified Keswick Green 90 - and the first 2.4 Puma through both the 200bhp and 550Nm barriers. www.IRBdevelopments.com www.facebook.com/irbdevelopments www.integrated316.com www.facebook.com/integrated316 |
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16th Jan 2023 11:55pm |
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| TC909 Member Since: 27 Jul 2021 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 34
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I have a full kit that I purchased from Rimmer bros but caved and let the garage do it instead.
Its for a 08 Puma so would work. Drop me a PM if interested and I'll send over the part numbers  |
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17th Jan 2023 9:08am |
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