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| farmer giles Member Since: 09 Feb 2011 Location: worcestershire Posts: 1299  
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good man.
unlike every one else on here i will save money on waxoiling and go direct to a re-chassis with a galvanizing in 10 years. I still haven't washed my 110 since i bought it new from the dealer in december - 8000 miles ago 
the only things that i find "essential" on a new land rover are wing top protectors - because i'm a sort arse and i climb on the vehicle to clean the screen; and a big boom boom stereo - sub,amp better mids and tweeters and ipod headunit - any sound deadening would only benifit my neighbours  |
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7th Oct 2011 3:14pm |
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| Birdy Member Since: 07 Oct 2011 Location: Côte d'Azur Posts: 883  
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I can see where Farmer Giles is coming from - I’m not sure myself about the economics of rustproofing/Waxoyling.
I’ve just replaced my 10-year-old TD5 with a brand-new 2.4 Puma (jury’s out as to how much of an improvement - if any); yes, the rear chassis member was a bit tatty and would have needed a bit of welded reinforcement around the tow bar to pass the MoT. And yes, in a couple of years time a new galvanised chassis would have been needed (but then the vehicle would have been good for at least another ten years). But if I’d had it rustproofed from new, would it have made the slightest bit of difference? I think not. I don’t have the facilities to do much work on my vehicles and considered having a company rust-proof my new Land Rover but, having seen the cost and gone through some T & Cs (“we’ll make a mess of your car but if you want us not to, then we’ll charge you even more”), I’ll do a Farmer Giles and save my money, with interest it’ll more than cover any welding needed years on down the line… I’ll probably get some spray-on goo to protect behind the headlamps and the rear chassis member, and that’s about it. Peter Post edited by admin team to comply with site rules |
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7th Oct 2011 4:08pm |
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| CityDriver Member Since: 27 Sep 2011 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 60  
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I just want to prevent any early issues. No doubt thinks will rust eventually somewhere, but it's a limited effort for postponing issues in my mind. Plus I like a neat car, but that's just me.
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7th Oct 2011 5:32pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5026
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Zagato, can you specify this a bit better? Do you mean getting all windows resealed just because the standard sealing is so poor?
CityDriver they are not sealed in the first place. You can do it yourself but it's a tricky/messy job far better to pay around £70 - £100 to get a window fitter to do it 
It's detailed in the water ingress manual (which I will try and find the link to again) along with where to seal your cappings etc
Interesting view on not undersealing etc your car and I suppose there is a case for that when some pay £700+ for it to be done  every 4-5 years but of course it's not just the chassis it's the doors that can corrode from the outset, seen the price of new ones not great in 5-10 years time or even longer and getting the spray work all done which will never match either rear tub spreaders, electrics, steps, bumpers, hinges, etc etc the list is long  No matter if you are going to chop it in in 4-5 years time but it saves a lot of time and hassle by treating it all thoroughly from the outside and giving it a squirt every now and then there after. Imagining yourself sitting in a DC100 in the future should make you leap up off your bum and get some underseal 
I have worked on a few farms and everyone used to look after their machinery, we had to scrape the rust off each year and slap on the old red oxide paint - similarly the Defender deserves looking after and have you seen the price of a new chassis let alone the agro of having to swap it over. Those chassis fastener points will be a pig to get off in 10+ years time. Let your door pillars rot at the bottom and around the top hinge etc and really your looking at bulkhead out eventually to re weld new bits in and then it will need doing again not so far down the line...once rot has got in it's a constant battle to keep cutting it out and welding in new bits  Just makes sense to blast some goo in every orifice first it will all last 20 years+ longer, it will look better and you will have less reliability problems from electrics/mechanicals
Water ingress manual here https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...cedure.pdf City Driver great idea listing the details so others can add and advise. Make sure your props have nipples and are greased. The engine bracket is obvious when you lift the bonnet if you can't see it at the back of the engine it has been taken off
Good luck with it all, can't remember who I have pm'd now about all this and where you are but if you ever need any pointers drop me a line or pop down if you are ever in my area. It's all pretty obvious when you start working through it....check also for cracks in your guttering, hairline not a problem (I lacquered mine with little brush suppiled with touch up paint!) but big cracks/gaps need sorting yourself or by dealership. The end capping fit has not been so great on some models I have seen lately and check also the front window to roof fitting (a recent 110 60 plate vehicle I worked on has to have it's whole roof taken off to be redone due to poor fit!)
Just go round the whole thing VERY carefully and check for light coming through from the outside on rear seat boxes, doors etc.....loads more but just go round it methodically
Oh and get yourself something fun for the motor to cheer you up after all this I got an LR teddy...err for the kids but fury dice would do |
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7th Oct 2011 6:20pm |
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| T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101  
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My 2 penneth
i think waxoil / dinatrol for ease of maintenance and longevity security, in all forms early life oils heated mirrors! |
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26th Nov 2011 9:07pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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I'm thinking about a heated mirror... Apologies - now jumping to another thread Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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26th Nov 2011 9:57pm |
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| CityDriver Member Since: 27 Sep 2011 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 60
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Pfff, at least one month delay in the delivery. Can't wait and will start ordering some of the parts for the below...
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23rd Jan 2012 7:40pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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The windscreen problem is serious. I am on a German forum and this is a major point there too. LR don't seem to clean the frame up after welding and then fit a (loose) rubber seal without any kind of sealant. It's a miracle any water stayed out of mine. It also seems to get worse when it's cold as the rubber hardens. I just had to do a botch job on mine as water was pouring in from the roof through the top rubber-to-frame seal and running down the inside exiting behind the dash
Unfortunately I had no choice to seal (Arbomast) in the wet but at least I'm dry for now (cheers Zag). So worried about corrosion that when I get the chance, I'm going to our Beetle mechanic (old-timer specialist) and getting him to take the whole lot out, tidy the frame, and fit the glass in new rubber with tons of sealant. Truth is, LR build Defenders like old-timers from new
p.s. not sure if you use the name "old-timers" in the UK - cars over 30 years old  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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23rd Jan 2012 8:02pm |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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when you take delivery
- check each panel for damage, - check under the seats and carpets for swarf, - check for leaks underneath. - make sure they give you a free set of mats. - make sure the windows go up and down - check electric front and rear heated windows work - make sure all recalls have been done - make sure vehicle is updated to latest firmware - radio code - get some security (physical and electronic) #1 - get a rear door strut - if you go for bigger wheels/tyres - get a wheel carrier - enjoy it |
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23rd Jan 2012 8:13pm |
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| BigRuss Member Since: 15 May 2010 Location: Norfolk Posts: 2785 
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Yeah but just because its in the document folder it doesn't mean it right, you need to make sure that the serial no. on the code matches the serial no. on the top of the radio! Yes this is then voice of exsperience talking
5 days without a radio which included 2 3-4 hour trips, wife wasnt very happy  Russell
2011MY 110 XS USW Black |
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23rd Jan 2012 10:29pm |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069
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did she have to listen to you sing Russ ? |
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23rd Jan 2012 11:04pm |
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| BigRuss Member Since: 15 May 2010 Location: Norfolk Posts: 2785
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You know it Russell
2011MY 110 XS USW Black |
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23rd Jan 2012 11:05pm |
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| Projectblue Member Since: 22 Nov 2011 Location: Devon Posts: 1096
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firstly, @ Willyeckerslike - best summary I have ever read, especially the belt loops. Took 2 days after swapping from D3 back to a 110
The only thing I would state as a personal must is to change the front & rear lights to NAS spec. I'm looking at LED versions this time. This is all about being seen, not being able to see. That's the next bit. Finally because there are lots of valleys/fords and flooding here, I usually put a snorkel and wading kit on as soon as I can. Oh, and front & rear recovery points. |
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26th Jan 2012 6:28pm |
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10383
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Great comments guys....
I've ruined loads of pairs of jeans
1st thing I did when I bought my td5.... BFG AT's ! Then you just never stop spending  |
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26th Jan 2012 11:05pm |
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