 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Yearly service 2014 2.2 puma |
 
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3198   
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My early 2.2 (2012) is with paper element same as the 2.4s. Not clear to me when they changed to cartridge/canister type. Best is to have a look underneath. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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18th Jul 2022 10:38am |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 374  
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My 2014 2.2 has the canister filter, but I'm not aware of the changeover date.
When I ordered mine I just used the chassis no to check on the spares website I was using (LRparts.net I think I bought from) - as I didn't have my car local to me when I was ordering. Although, agree with above, easiest is just to have a look underneath. |
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18th Jul 2022 11:25am |
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| pilsburypie Member Since: 19 Jul 2021 Location: Birmingham Posts: 173 
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Will have a look in a few days when I get home.
Any other 12 month service parts/fluids recommend? |
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18th Jul 2022 12:17pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3198
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If dealer did all the fluids, then there is no need for anything else (at least not in my opinion).
Not to doubt the dealer you purchased from, but how sure are you that the dealer replaced all fluids and not topped up? Family member got a Defender where the dealer did all fluids, only to have a melted transfer box about 1500miles later. Transfer box was dry. Too far away to make a proper claim!! 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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18th Jul 2022 1:04pm |
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| pilsburypie Member Since: 19 Jul 2021 Location: Birmingham Posts: 173
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Take your point. You can never be 100% unless you did it yourself. Got from J Hallam LR who deal mainly in defenders. Seem a proper outfit and said all oils done.
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18th Jul 2022 1:17pm |
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 536 
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Buy a break fluid tester and check the fluid. It must be replaced every two years as it absorbs water. Alas you'll need a specialist to do it as it needs a computer to talk to the ABS for bleeding.
May I'm a bit too OCD but I change all the fluids on my Defender every year: 2 gearboxes, 2 axles and one engine. |
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18th Jul 2022 3:28pm |
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| The Zee Member Since: 26 May 2019 Location: Salisbury Posts: 288 
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Don't forget to get the Air Conditioning (if your's is fitted with this) regassed, since the coolant gas also contains oil to lubricate the compressor pump : low gas, low lube, low lube, trashed compressor.
Just happened to my neighbour with a £800 bill for repairs  Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com 2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver Not just transport more like a religion |
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18th Jul 2022 4:51pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16867 
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Debatable, undoubtedly good practice but less essential than many would have you believe. Fluid in non-extreme use will probably last much longer.
You only need this if you've managed to get air in the ABS modulator. If you syringe the old fluid out of the reservoir, fill with clean fluid, then bleed normally keeping the reservoir topped up you should have no problems. |
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18th Jul 2022 5:27pm |
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| RichLech Member Since: 09 Nov 2015 Location: West Sussex Posts: 115 
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I replace the fuel and air filters every year too, even though I only do about 2K miles a year.
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18th Jul 2022 8:07pm |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4478 
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Brake and clutch fluid change every two years. Reason being that it absorbs moisture over time. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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19th Jul 2022 12:44am |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074 
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The module holds so little fluid it near as makes no difference (I have the computer) its useful as you can cheat the change and open all four calipers at once and use the ABS pump to pump out the system, if you do a corner at a time you will never 'clean' flush the system. Theres a good reason to change it as its not so much the reduction in boiling point (if your going to cook them your going to cook them) its the material on the pistons in the calipers, unless you've got stainless pistons the moisture in the fluid eats the pistons. |
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19th Jul 2022 9:06am |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 374
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I follow the theory about corrosion in the calipers, but I must admit I've never really seen anything practical to support it.
As I'm sure many of us have, I've restored or worked on quite a few neglected cars over the years, including some that have been standing unused (and unmaintained) for a decade or two. While I've always changed the brake fluid as a matter of course on these types of cars (and change mine in my personal cars every 3 years or so), the reality is that the brakes typically 'feel' fine, and certainly if you rebuild calipers or anything like that , the interior surfaces of caliper and piston are normally free from corrosion. So I think the hygroscopic quality of brake fluid does reduce it's BP over time, but I don't think it typically gets to the point that internal corrosion is an issue. Of course maybe I've just been lucky? It'd be interesting to know others experience. |
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19th Jul 2022 9:56am |
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 536
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A useful tip, thank you. I don't have a diagnostic computer for my 2015 Puma. This will save a few quid with DIY rather than my local independent. |
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19th Jul 2022 10:35am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16867
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The same is true for a Disco2 by the way. Popular internet myth says that you can't bleed the brakes without a diagnostic tool, but you can subject to the same provisos. If you were to fill the modulator with air it might be more of a problem, of course.
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19th Jul 2022 2:25pm |
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