 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Output shaft, parts needed and 'while you're in there' |
 
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5765   
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Hi Jon,
You also need to add patience and skin-grafts to your list. Joking aside: No seals between transfer box and gearbox, fits flush, face to face. Brake cleaner and rags to give the innards a really good clean out. A quality grease to allow the shaft to slide on the splines easily. Also, have you considered doing the following at the same time, partly for expediency (since you’ll be taking so much out) and partly to tighten up all aspects of driveline slack: Clutch. If not done before, consider upgrading to a HD clutch by Clutchfix or LOF. You’ve got to take so much off to change the OS it’s only a small step further to do the clutch. You wouldn’t want to do it all again if the clutch goes in the near future. UJs. Check if they’re in good condition and if not replace with HD versions given you’ll have the prop shaft off to access the output shaft. Makes their replacement easier. One piece half shafts or HD flanges. Given a lot of slack comes from the half shafts, perhaps use the time the Def is off road to check any slack in these and replace accordingly. And also, I decided to use the opportunity that it was on the ramp to wrap the exhaust (1m section directly under the seat box) to prevent heat ingress into the cabin. Amazing difference judging by by 2k round trip to the UK last week.  Click image to enlarge Beyond that, not much else required…. Good luck. I did mine late last year. Beautiful bit of kit, such a shame it has to be hidden away. Click image to enlarge Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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7th Apr 2022 7:30am |
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| Mother superior Member Since: 05 Aug 2013 Location: Surrey Posts: 494 
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Hello
When I did mine the biggest challenge was the logistics of moving a big lump of metal about whilst under the car so I made a wooden cradle up so I could support the weight of the transfer box with a jack. other than that it was pretty straight forward. Wes Oh woe, oh woe My crusty old landrover, It will not go. |
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7th Apr 2022 9:48am |
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| Mother superior Member Since: 05 Aug 2013 Location: Surrey Posts: 494
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Oh, and a big second to Mr Grenadier's suggestion. Check the half shafts out, mine were the cause of my clunk and not the output shaft. Oh woe, oh woe
My crusty old landrover, It will not go. |
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7th Apr 2022 9:51am |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 374 
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Thanks both,
I've already put 1 piece shafts in the back, which helped, but there's still too much play, and it's slowly getting worse. The front flanges are pretty good (or at least they were a few months back when I checked). Good to know I don't need any other parts (apart from patience and skin grafts  ) , but will definitely take your advice and have a thorough check of everything in the driveline while I'm under there.
Agree the Ashcroft kit is a lovely thing, and a shame to hide it away. I'll give the clutch some thought. Appreciate the point that you're halfway there ... Will report back on progress! |
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7th Apr 2022 10:11am |
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| Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434  
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while you're in there, you should consider replacing the two seals between the gearbox and transfer case
MT82 Mainshaft seal: LR0058800 https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/mt82-mainshaft-seal/ and the LT230 input seal: ICV100000G https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/produ...-box-seal/ Both of these seal their respective cases to the output shaft, so since changing the shaft it makes sense to renew the seals as well Roaming around 🇳🇴🇨🇭 |
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7th Apr 2022 10:14am |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 374
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thank for the advice.
It sounds entirely logical. I'll order them now. |
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7th Apr 2022 10:43am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5765
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Also, before you get started, check the condition of your gearbox and transfer case mounts. One to each side, fitted to chassis. Mine had both degraded with, in one case, the rubber having actually detached from the mount, thereby allowing the TC to drop by quite a few mil/degrees. That could only have been stressing the drive train. They’re really cheap and when the TC is out, easy to fit. But you’d hate to find out you need to replace them only once you’ve taken the TC out, and then be forced to delay putting everything back together whilst you await their delivery.
 Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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7th Apr 2022 1:03pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16870 
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You will need some method of removing the centre bolt which retains the female part of the coupling to the back of the mainshaft. This is not always easy but is well documented elsewhere on this forum.
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7th Apr 2022 1:21pm |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 374
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I see what you mean. I'll get under there and have a look at them now.
Especially as I'm doing this on Thursday next week, which the day before the Easter break, so anything I don't have will cause a big delay! |
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7th Apr 2022 1:21pm |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 374
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ok, thanks. I'd read about needing a puller for the coupler but not noticed anything specifically about the removal of the bolt. I'll go have a (re)read and see what I can find. |
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7th Apr 2022 1:23pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16870
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It's tight, it's threadlocked, and it fits into a rotating shaft. It can present a challenge.
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7th Apr 2022 1:27pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1756
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Is it this tool you need blackwolf https://jlrequipment.service-solutions.com...KU=308-701. The 308-701
LOCKING FIXTURE OUTPUT FLANGE |
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7th Apr 2022 1:42pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 09 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2260 |
I might be mis remembering but i think you can use a bolt through a piece of 2:4 and wedge it against the casing and the bolt across one of the cutouts in the female end ...it locks it in place!
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7th Apr 2022 2:09pm |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 168  
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You're remembering correctly Nitram. Al;so removing the cubby box and access panel above the transmission allows for the use of a decent length bar which you'll need to get enough leverage on the nut.
Click image to enlarge |
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7th Apr 2022 2:31pm |
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