 | Home > My Defender > Puma to LT1/8L90 Restomod |
 
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 07 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 219   
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At last things are starting to move at a better pace as I'm now only waiting for the replacement floating disks.
Been doing a bit of work on the fuel pump assembly and modified the standard unit to accept the new fuel pump. Made an intermediate fixing out of the old fuel unit  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge still not totally finished as I've got to make some sort of rubber mounting around the fuel pump. Trial fitted the new brakes Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge got to fabricate a mud shield and a larger brake shield (open to ideas) Was concerned that the new wheels would not fit with the Ashcroft flanges, but they fit well, but clearance in down to a few mm Click image to enlarge also got back all the brackets and nuts and bolts from the platers Click image to enlarge Started to fit some of the new bushes Click image to enlarge new Tyre pressure monitoring system with Canbus interface Click image to enlarge I know everyone else is using dash 6 (AN-06) but I have opted for dash 8 all round for the fuel system. Click image to enlarge and most importantly have decided on a colour, Phoenix Orange, the bulkhead should be being painted at some stage this week. The air suspension will be with me later this week so should be able to get a rolling chassis over the next few weeks. |
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23rd Mar 2021 1:46pm |
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| Zed Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: In the woods Posts: 3025 
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Crikey those brakes are something else! Very nice. WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm. |
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23rd Mar 2021 2:30pm |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7875 
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Wow! I know I keep saying it but Wow!
  James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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23rd Mar 2021 3:08pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10530 
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Nice colour choice, is the Phoenix Orange like a burnt orange ? 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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23rd Mar 2021 9:40pm |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 07 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 219
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Thanks for all the kind comments.
Got two issues I like advice on please.... 1. Wheel bearings - I have renewed the wheel bearings and kept the old spacers, but I may have mixed up the hubs. I've a new larger spacer (I think it is part number TOF100000, 15.5mm) even before reaching 210 Nm, I have zero end float. Given that all the old spacers were either 15.3 or 15.2 is it usual or expected to have no end float with the largest spacer, or perhaps I am, looking for problems which do not exist. I am also only at 150 Nm and the hub feels tight to me. 2. Rear ABS Sensor - I've ordered rear sensors part number SSW100060. The sensors came with plastic covers which I removed; however, these sensors are far too small for the holes, however they do fit very well with the plastic covers on. Have I got the wrong sensors or do the plastic covers stay on?? as per the pic below (abs ring not yet fitted), this feels a really really stupid question, but I can’t find anything on this. Click image to enlarge |
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23rd Mar 2021 11:23pm |
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| Shroppy Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 848 
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Personally I'd ditch the spacer/locknut arrangement for the wheel bearings and revert to the adjustable set up of two nuts and stake washer.
As for the ABS sensors, I've not seen them fitted with a plastic sleeve before. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread Series 2 109" Series 1 80" |
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24th Mar 2021 8:08am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16892 
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There is definitely something wrong, if a hub is that tight you will at best destroy the bearings very quickly and at worst suffer a disturbing and catastrophic failure such as the hub seizing, or even parting company with the vehicle. While changing bearings usually won't significantly alter the size of spacer required, due to the very precise tolerances to which bearings are made*, changing hubs and/or stub axles is likely to. If you haven't fitted the outer races of the bearings correctly, or there is crud between the outer race and its seating face in the hub, you may get a similar effect. Whatever the cause, you need to investigate and sort out the problem. There are many advantages and few disadvantages to binning the spacer and reverting to the earlier two-nut system, as suggested above. * If you are using any Britpart components then all bets on tolerances and fit are off. |
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24th Mar 2021 10:14am |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 07 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 219
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thanks for the reply, it's a big help.
The spacer is a genuine part, which I have measured and is OK the bearings are Timken and have the same part number on as the ones removed. Thanks for confirming there is something wrong. I'll strip the hub again and I've also got a spare hub which I'll use this time and see if the results are the same. Is there ever no end float with the 15.5mm spacer??? is there a figure at which the hub should move so I could measure it with a spring gauge?? Stub axles are new and are britpart, should I ditch them??? |
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24th Mar 2021 11:16am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16892
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> Stub axles are new and are britpart, should I ditch them???
Not necessarily. Britpart does not enjoy a good reputation for quality (especially with me, after several incidents but most notably a Britpart hub nut that had a thread so poor it destroyed a stub axle), but it is unlikely that it is the stub axle causing your problem. In essence the preload/end-float on the hub is determined by the relative dimensions of the spacer and the back-to-back distance between the two bearings' outer races fitted in the hub. If the bearing is tight, it suggests that the distance between the two races is too large, or the spacer too small. If you had a fitted a Britpart hub, I would be deeply suspicious of it. As you haven't, then my first suspicion would be that one or both of the outer bearing races is not snug against the reference surface in the hub - perhaps you didn't tap it fully home, or there is dirt or debris trapped beneath it. The fitting instructions for the spacer-type hubs instruct you to assemble the hub with the largest size of spacer, measure the end-float on the hub, and use the measured figure to calculate how much smaller is the spacer you require compared to the one you have used. If the hub is manufactured to the correct tolerances, clearly the situation should never arise when there is zero end float or the hub is tight when assembled with the largest spacer. Clearly therefore either the hub, the bearings, the spacer, or the way it is assembled is not right. |
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24th Mar 2021 1:46pm |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 07 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 219
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thanks thats great, I'll strip and start again, I'll let you know how I get on.
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24th Mar 2021 2:52pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7693 
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Personally I would also revert to the two hub nut setup.l rather than using spacers.
Sensors, I haven't seen them fitted with that collar before. Cheers James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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24th Mar 2021 3:22pm |
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| Defendermatt Member Since: 15 Sep 2016 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 311 
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For the ABS sensor there should be a bush that is fitted to the case first, if your def didn't come with factory ABS then i bet they're not fitted to all axle cases.
Axle bush - FTC1384 1989 90 4.3 V8 2012 L405 OF 2014 D4 HSE Lux (SOLD) 2015 90 HT (SOLD) @d9o.mf |
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24th Mar 2021 4:03pm |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 07 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 219
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thanks all,
So, I've now tried the same with three different hubs and 6 bearings, making sure it's super clean and everything is as it should be but always the same result. I've been resisting going to the two-nut arrangement to stay true to the year for anyone doing this in the future. To get the hub moving I'm at 16.5N or 1.7Kgs (measured from the wheel stud), there's no binding or loose spots and the movement is smooth. As an aside I dug out all the old bearings from my bin (that was a nice job) and none of them were the Timken bearing I have (the bearings that were Timken were not the same part number, but most were not Timken) I thought I had checked this, but apparently not. Perhaps as my bearings are different to the old ones, I'm looking for end float that’s not there. The Haynes manual suggest you only need to change the spacer when you have end float of anything more than zero, thus (as it suits my argument) it’s possible to have zero with the largest spacer. Can anyone confirm my spring gauge readings??? |
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24th Mar 2021 6:09pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16892
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With the largest spacer 0 endfloat is possible but the hub should not be tight.
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24th Mar 2021 7:11pm |
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