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ozzie1989



Member Since: 25 Feb 2009
Location: Wales
Posts: 282

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Bonatti Grey
If it helps I've had the Britpart shafts fitted for years. Upon removing them recently to get the hubs off there was no noticeable wear on the splines and no twisting etc. evident on the shafts.

My only small complaint is that the outer edges (the exposed bit under the wheels) are showing a little rust. Nothing a lick of paint won't sort out and still cheaper than changing drive members all the time!

They feel solid and since fitting have had no slack in the rear after the diff. Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition)
Post #852592 28th Aug 2020 12:10pm
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

Thanks Guys. I think it’s the britpart ones they have in stock so seems like these are OK to use.
Post #853011 29th Aug 2020 10:35pm
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

OK. I'm half way there.

I've just ordered the Ashcroft output shaft.

On the clutch - I'm going to order the LOF ExtremeSpec Clutch kit. Spoke to Luke and he says the pedal feel/weight is much like the OE install - just far stronger, longer wearing and with upgraded springs.

But... they also offer this: https://lofclutches.com/shop/clutches/peda...-cylinder/

If the garage is changing the slave cylinder, then they'll have to bleed the clutch hydraulics - in which case changing the clutch master cylinder shouldn't add much labour time.

Does anyone have any input on the Powermaster clutch master cylinder and return spring? I've never had much of an issue with clutch weight but for an extra £69, it might make sense to do this at the same time - I'll confess I have toyed with a slickshift - either from Syncro Gearboxes or from TMD and a lighter clutch would let me make better use of the gearbox (and may make it easier for my partner to drive too. The gearchange is a little notchy so a new selector (and taking the opportunity for another upgrade) may help in this regard.
Post #853825 2nd Sep 2020 3:03pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16855

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Have you noticed this warning about the master cylinder:

*Cannot be fitted in conjunction with the LOF POWER Slave cylinder* * Please do not fit with a brand new clutch until it is fully bedded in *

There is something that I find worrying about a master cylinder which cannot be used with a new driven plate. I'd want to know why.
Post #853827 2nd Sep 2020 3:12pm
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

ahh... I didn't see that, thank you. I'll call them and ask.

My understanding is that the PowerSlave cylinder is a R380/TD5-specific upgrade: there is a flowchart showing this here: https://lofclutches.com/wp-content/uploads...3.jpg.webp

As far as I can read the PowerMaster can be used in addition to the OEM 2.2spec concenric slave cylinder, but I will call to ask as within a week of having this lot fitted I'll be setting off on the North Coast 500 run.
Post #853832 2nd Sep 2020 3:22pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16855

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I think that the master cylinder can be used with the TDCi concentric slave cylinder, yes, but I would like to know why it doesn't work properly with a new clutch. I have heard tales that if you do fit one with a new clutch, then you cannot reliably fully disengage the clutch. That to my mind is a bad thing and I personally would not fit one.
Post #853863 2nd Sep 2020 4:59pm
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

that makes sense to me. As I'm having a new clutch fitted - I won't go for it at this juncture. Like you, I'd be uncomfortable (now) knowing that every time I have the clutch changed that I'm going to have issues with the master cylinder.

Think I'll have the upgraded spring on its own though while I'm getting some bits.
Post #853874 2nd Sep 2020 5:52pm
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HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam
Posts: 672

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
I have the power master and clutch spring installed. According to Luke of LOF, there is a "bedding in" period for the power master in which you have to drive it as much as possible. The clutch pedal will now sit proud and there will be a learning curve to drive your truck smoothly again especially if you are used to the weight of the standard clutch. It is this "bedding in" period which, according to them, will make it difficult to work with a new clutch since you will have to bed that in as well.

Clutch pedal is now nice and light. There are still times that I still step hard on it out of habit but I've more or less gotten the hang of the new, lighter feel of the pedal.
Post #853968 3rd Sep 2020 8:45am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16855

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If I understand this right, the "powermaster" is only a different master cylinder, in which case the concept of bedding it in is a nonsence. "Bedding in" a new clutch makes more sense, sinc ethe initial wear (until the rubbing surfaces are flat) will be quicker than from then on.

I would still be uneasy at fitting a master cylinder which apparently is incapable of fully disengaging a new clutch, it isn't right.

I would welcome a more rational explanation if there is one.
Post #854032 3rd Sep 2020 3:12pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2224

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Re: (sorry) need to pick clutch/output upgrade parts
Gasket wrote:
I suspect that clutchfix + ashcroft will be safest but happy to hear otherwise.


This is exactly the route I went. If you intend to "check the diff" then you may as well upgrade the cross pin to an Ashcroftt HD pin while you're there and replace the brass/copper thrust washers

I recently had the transfer box off to rebuild and was pleased to see that the Ashcroft shaft is still A1 three years after fitting.

[imghttps://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/userpics/20876/normal_3A841B8B-6F4D-4C22-B7B2-3064F4F41B1F.jpeg[/img] > 110 XS Double Cab
> Instagram @simonlanemind


Last edited by hank on 4th Sep 2020 8:46am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #854044 3rd Sep 2020 4:32pm
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

thanks Hank - how are you finding the clutch? No rattles or anything like that?
Post #854127 3rd Sep 2020 9:05pm
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HardCharger



Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam
Posts: 672

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
blackwolf wrote:
If I understand this right, the "powermaster" is only a different master cylinder, in which case the concept of bedding it in is a nonsence. "Bedding in" a new clutch makes more sense, sinc ethe initial wear (until the rubbing surfaces are flat) will be quicker than from then on.

I would still be uneasy at fitting a master cylinder which apparently is incapable of fully disengaging a new clutch, it isn't right.

I would welcome a more rational explanation if there is one.


Well, that was the explanation I got Whistle

In any case, while figuring stuff out for the power master, I did drive around with just the pedal spring and the standard clutch master cylinder, it still helps make the pedal lighter. So if the power master thing isn't your thing, the pedal spring should still help make things lighter. Cheaper too Wink
Post #854180 4th Sep 2020 5:55am
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3612

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
I have a new LOF road speck clutch and the new LOF power master cylinder, pedal is lovely and light all works fine, clears fine with carpets and LR rubber mats, just still rattles now and again DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #854182 4th Sep 2020 6:28am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2224

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Gasket wrote:
thanks Hank - how are you finding the clutch? No rattles or anything like that?


I must be honest there is a rattle in neutral when off the clutch which hoes when the slightest of pressure is put on the clutch. Noticeable because I am aware of it but any normal person wouldn't. Apparently this has been rectified in the current version.

By the way, over the years I have changed most driveline components to replicate what you are proposing...

New uprated clutch
New slave cylinder
New output shaft
One piece rear halfshafts
Check/replace propshaft UJs.
Check diff.

The three biggest contributors to taking out my slop were output shaft, one piece shafts and diff planet gear thrust washers > 110 XS Double Cab
> Instagram @simonlanemind
Post #854195 4th Sep 2020 8:45am
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5765

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Re: (sorry) need to pick clutch/output upgrade parts
hank wrote:
This is exactly the route I went. If you intend to "check the diff" then you may as well upgrade the cross pin to an Ashcroftt HD pin while you're there and replace the brass/copper thrust washers


Hank, I’m about to buy a new clutch, but think there might be some slack in the diff as well. How easy is it to replace the parts you mention and can it be done in-situ or does it have to be taken out? Thumbs Up Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #854197 4th Sep 2020 8:55am
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