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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1727

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Big fan of additional earths, I've an additional one direct from battery to alarm, new welding cable sized one from battery to starter bolt and from there to chassis, a smaller one from there to bulkhead, it only seemed polite!
Post #844716 19th Jul 2020 1:27pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

United Kingdom 
You’ve managed to trace the area concerned which is a really good start.
You’re right a temporary earth really is exactly what it means, ideally you now want to fund the culprit and fix properly.
(You could probably fit a HD cable ground for a semi permanent / semi temp fix for the time being until you find the culprit.)

Do you have a Multimeter to do some continuity testing? If so, you can trace the exact culprit but can take some time.

Seeking the ground path is the way to go, adding the temporary ground has shown that in that location the ground path has been disturbed.

Dirty loose connections, and water can be an issue as water can not only degrade connections but cause all worth of random voltage paths both live and ground and cause havoc. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #844718 19th Jul 2020 1:49pm
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cold



Member Since: 15 Dec 2018
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 118

Thanks everyone for the help,, really appreciated Bow down - I have put a temp fix in for now and when I have more time I will try and trace the fault - most likely when I get back from Holiday and will report once I know more - Thanks again Thumbs Up
Post #844750 19th Jul 2020 6:24pm
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ARC99



Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue
I thought that the rear light -ve was located on the passenger side longitudinal chassis leg close to the battery. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to Censored us off.

Richard
Post #844809 20th Jul 2020 8:45am
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cold



Member Since: 15 Dec 2018
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 118

ARC - if tye rain holds off I will look for that tonight - thanks Thumbs Up
Post #844863 20th Jul 2020 2:49pm
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cold



Member Since: 15 Dec 2018
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 118

Sorted!! After a few more frustrating days of checking and cleaning earths I started studying wiring diagrams and pictures from the manuals - everything pointed to the RH transfer box earth - but there was one there and cleaning made no difference - the difference was that there should be three! - two connections and three cables. The hidden cable had been put on top of the chassis so couldn’t be seen from below - so a real big thank you to everyone both that posted here and also for the previous posts on other topics at Defender2 - they were also a massive help Bow down Bow down and a donation made to Defender2

Pictures posted in case it helps someone else in the future - you can see the leads in one pic and where it was (out of sight) prior

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
Post #845331 22nd Jul 2020 7:33pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

United Kingdom 
Good job. That’s more or less exactky the issue I had, only the RHS vertical one.
Went to main dealer for a clutch change, it was hand tight and dirty.
Cleaned it up, re-tightened and it was sorted.
Paid over £1000 for the privilege too! 🙄 Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #845336 22nd Jul 2020 7:38pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

United Kingdom 
Does anyone have the torque figures for the grounds on the transfer box to hand?

Had a quick WSM look but couldn’t see it, although no doubt there in the 1200 plus pages.
Mine has one indicator the rear left that is playing up, tracked it down to grounding also so I need to look at this myself. It may even be similar to the OP’s issue.

Thank you. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #857590 23rd Sep 2020 11:54am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I don't mean this to sound critical, but I am struggling to think of a fastener where a torque figure is less important than this! Rolling with laughter

Just apply common sense!
Post #857596 23rd Sep 2020 12:12pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

United Kingdom 
I would rather it was torqued correctly to be honest, after all that’s what the WSM is for.
The odd part is that it’s one side, swapped the LED light over and it’s not that. Front is working and voltage seems okay. The ground is poor on that side though, I have t done anything with it either so I can only but assume it’s corrosion, worked a little loose or some kind of damage. And it works correctly at alternator charging voltage but not on unlock or indicator on with ignition only on.
Hallmarks of a poor ground with high resistance, the increased voltage combats that. But obviously I’d not how it should be. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #857607 23rd Sep 2020 1:04pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey



Post #857624 23rd Sep 2020 1:46pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

United Kingdom 
Thank-you. Thumbs Up
Is there one for the top transfer box at all?
I know when I last checked them out they were cleaned and properly re-fitted. It may not be the issue but I think it’s pretty common to be the culprit. Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #857639 23rd Sep 2020 3:03pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16857

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I'm not sure what you mean by "the top transfer box"?
Post #857677 23rd Sep 2020 6:15pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

United Kingdom 
Not to worry I was thinking of something else. Thank you for the torque figures.

I did look through the WSM but I couldn’t find the page for it, currently I only have access to online versions too.
Thumbs Up Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #857687 23rd Sep 2020 7:00pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19531

United Kingdom 
Solved.
It was indeed this ground stud on the RHS of the T box.

I unlocked it, dim flash barely any on that side.
Got under and ever so slightly tightened the bolt to check, got out and tried the unlock again and it was working so then I knew it was the culprit.

Wasn’t particularly dirty or corroded, but rather the bolt loose.

So I cleaned everything with brake cleaner, then finally with alcohol swabs.
Added some Durite Dielectric grease, taking care not get it in the hole or on the bolts threads. A drip of low strength Loctite 222 with 6NM break away on the threads of the bolt then tighten up to the 12NM. It still didn’t feel quite tight enough to me at that so nipped it up just a touch more.

I would say the reason for the single indicator issue was a single ring terminal of the two for that side had high resistance due to being loose.

This has happened due to road potholes and rough lanes that I drive on regularly.
I had issues with this before after the clutch was changed, evidently the torque alone is not sufficient to keep it in place with the vibration it’s subjected to.
So although I’m not a huge fan of Loctite this particular one in this particular instance with a small applied amount should do the trick. Combined with being tightened correctly. I expect he two ring thermals add to this but it’s not uncommon to have multiple ring terminals on a ground stud anyway.

I wouldn’t suggest any other Loctite grade though and don’t over apply it only a drip should be fine when fitted to correct torque also.

Very pleased with this and a relief as my MOT is in a month, just goes to show it’s always best to never start chopping up wiring up to check things or alter wiring and a Multimeter to identify the culprit is invaluable.

If ever you have rear lighting issues or high resistance readings on the ground continuity paths then check this bolt.
This is the second time I’ve had issues with it and was first brought about after a clutch change. It wasn’t cleaned, torqued correctly and also had no thread locker to stop it coming loose. I hope this will be the end of it now, and I at least know that there won’t be any worries about seizes bolts due to too much or high strength threadlocker.
I’ve found the 222 to be very good, especially for smaller fixings where no viable option is available other than a thread locker.
The T box and Defender generally is subject to a lot of vibration and arduous conditions in that location so explains why it started to become lose.

It also improved once warm probably due to expansion with the extra heat and also the 2v increase in voltage as well.

So there you have it, glad I didn’t jump the gun and buy new rear LED indicators.

Thumbs Up Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #858084 25th Sep 2020 3:02pm
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