![]() | Home > Puma (Tdci) > CLICK CLICK CLICK (CV joint failure ) |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20780 ![]() ![]() |
Check for stones and or grit in tyre treads and remove with a item it such as a flat head screwdriver. It’s possibly your issue. WeWillWin🇬🇧🇺🇸
⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 Last edited by custom90 on 24th Jul 2019 4:29pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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CharlieDonuts Member Since: 16 Jun 2019 Location: Illiers Combray Posts: 133 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I went to see Francois the French Land Rover mechanic. He is a very competent mechanic but hilariously rude. Honestly he is very helpful but he has to pretend not to like the English. I know that secretly he likes me really
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williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441 ![]() ![]() |
Your cv joint is on its way out. The clicking is from that. By putting grease into it, it lubricates the ball bearings and the cage they run in.
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CharlieDonuts Member Since: 16 Jun 2019 Location: Illiers Combray Posts: 133 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Well thank you very much William the Dog. So new CV joints from Ashcroft then. I was planning to drive to Spain at the end of August. Ought I replace the CV joints before then? Is it a difficult job to do at home ? Pretty much every workshop near to here will be closed between now and September. I would prefer not to cancel my holidays.
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CharlieDonuts Member Since: 16 Jun 2019 Location: Illiers Combray Posts: 133 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
So I am 700 km from home in northern Spain and the front right CV joint is occasionally clicking again on full lock. it’s awfully windy here in Asturias. Do you think it’s OK to drive home or do I need to find a local mechanic double quick. I was waiting for my French mechanic to come back from holidays before fitting Ashcroft parts. I’d prefer to wait but I don’t know how badly CV joints fail after they have started to click. I don’t want to kill myself.
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donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1886 ![]() ![]() |
700kms - 420 miles on old money - IF it's the CV joint, then my thought would be to get it home, but to be canny with it - taking it easy and not charging up the motorway.
Someone more experienced will hopefully come in here, but some LR mechanicals are pretty robust and agricultural, and I'd say the CV joint is one of those parts. They are big, chunky bearings. If it's as you've described, with the noise easing on lubrication, then it's probably also the case that the seals around the half-shaft are gone, allowing the grease to leak into the axle and diff. For my money, a careful run up the road and then do the job properly the way you want to - (but I do also have home recovery on my AA policy!) Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1854 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Try to keep off full lock and heavy power through tight bends and it should be fine.
Good luck! |
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CharlieDonuts Member Since: 16 Jun 2019 Location: Illiers Combray Posts: 133 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thank you. I have some one shot grease bags I’ll take it easy !
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hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2325 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If it only clicks on full lock it will get you home easily, especially if you keep it lubricated. As said just refrain from any undue strain and take it easy > 110 XS Double Cab
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CharlieDonuts Member Since: 16 Jun 2019 Location: Illiers Combray Posts: 133 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() Click image to enlarge So I bit the bullet. New half shafts, CV joints and flanges from Ashcroft. In addition my mechanic Francois replaced the swivel joints, the swivel joint pins, all the seals and all the bearings. While he was at it he replaced my front brake discs. So the front end from wheels to diff rebuilt. 2008 with 100,000 miles on the clock. |
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williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441 ![]() ![]() |
Well done, you should be good for quite a few thousand miles now
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Zed Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: In the woods Posts: 3355 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Those Khan's look great.
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MalteseRover Member Since: 02 Jul 2013 Location: Gozo Posts: 137 ![]() ![]() |
hi,
Sorry to butt in. I was checking for wheel bearing this evening and noticed that when i try spin the wheel forward or backwards there is a faint clatter at the hub end. (if i got the term correctly) The rotation is short and the sound is heard before the usual clunky diff/shaft/tcase show up. The hubs are sealed for life I was told. It is a 2003 110 model, is it ok to undo the seal to drain out any oil/water if present and refill with suitable grease? what are the properties of the one shot grease so when i head to buy some locally i would know what i am buying. Regards JOseph |
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