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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 898   
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Some things to consider which seem to be fairly common.
1- Fuel filter? 2- In line fuel valve in the filter head? 3- Fuel Pump? 4- Oil in the ECU loom (red plug)? Good luck  2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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21st Nov 2019 10:01pm |
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| Gozy Member Since: 02 Apr 2016 Location: Sidbury Posts: 43  
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Brilliant thanks for your help and reply 4RF RDS. Will get at it but still open to suggestions. Gozy.
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21st Nov 2019 11:14pm |
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| Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587 
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Mine did the same and needed a new fuel pump - it wasn't delivering enough pressure to satisfy the ECU. The plastic fuel lines were renewed at the same time because they'd become brittle.
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22nd Nov 2019 11:25am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2196 
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What is the actual symptom, can't quite be sure from your initial description?
Does it just churn away when you turn the key but not start? Does it start but then splutter and die? Does it just stop turning over when the key is turned? Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread |
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22nd Nov 2019 11:50am |
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| Gozy Member Since: 02 Apr 2016 Location: Sidbury Posts: 43
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Hi rallysteve.
Problem is turns over 4or5 times will not start. Turn key back and turn key again will start ,but it did take two times of this ,this morning. When it starts it seems to run fine. Just thinking maybe glow plugs 🤔 thanks Gozy. Pa it done 107000 miles and probably not changed. |
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22nd Nov 2019 12:09pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
test them before remove them save your time
To test glow plugs, start by getting a multimeter and setting it to ohms. ... Next, remove the caps or connectors to the glow plugs and connect the negative multimeter lead to a ground point in the engine. Once the negative lead is secure, attach the positive lead to the top of the glow plug. good glow plug reading is ohms 0.7 prox  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge only 4 glow plugs fitted |
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22nd Nov 2019 3:17pm |
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| Notyalc Member Since: 27 Jul 2018 Location: Northumberland Posts: 139 
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If it needs glow plugs it’s past it I would say.
I don’t think they actually need them, mine doesn’t and from what the OP says there’s doesn’t normally. I think they were fitted to satisfy emissions , but are not really needed to start. So I would be looking elsewhere. I would suspect fuel, but equally a lot of people say to check the crank sensor, which might make sense. A Nanocom would possibly steer you in the right direction? |
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22nd Nov 2019 6:43pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2225
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I just had the same fault on my friends 2005 Defender TD5
Changed injector seals, wasn’t that. Changed diesel filter housing, no difference Changed the battery....starts instantly Battery still seemed to turn the engine over OK but was the original one from 2005. |
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22nd Nov 2019 7:27pm |
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| Piggle Member Since: 24 May 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 75 
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Recently had very similar issue with mine. Would take 2 or 3 attempts to start when cold. Just got back from independent Land Rover garage week. They changed all 4 glow plugs and now starts on the button. Seemingly 2 were completely dead and the other 2 were on last legs.
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27th Nov 2019 7:31pm |
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| Gozy Member Since: 02 Apr 2016 Location: Sidbury Posts: 43
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Hi thanks very much for your help regarding our starting problem. First port of call was to change the fuel filter which I’ve done and it’s sorted. I am a little surprised the exciting One had done only 5000 miles but I suppose if it’s dirty it’s done it’s job. I’ve been buying Esso fuel for the last 12000 miles and she seems to of been fine. Don’t run the tank to empty or near so a mystery. Still I now have some spares in a new return valve and little reddish rubber valve which wasn’t mentioned in the work shop manual will take photos and post , oh and four new heater plugs. Thanks again to all happy Landying.
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1st Dec 2019 5:33am |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
fuel bug scat bloke fuel filters and pump
Click image to enlarge Diesel bug is contamination of diesel fuel by microbes such as bacteria and fungi. ... The presence of water then encourages microbial growth which either occurs at the interface between the oil and water or on the tank walls, depending on whether the microbes need oxygen. treat with Diesel & Biodiesel Biocide |
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1st Dec 2019 9:58am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16858 
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Why do you think running the tank close to empty would make a difference? The fuel pick-up is still in the same place! |
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1st Dec 2019 2:35pm |
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| othorton Member Since: 22 Jul 2019 Location: London Posts: 104 
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Strangely mine has started doing this as we've moved into winter. Irrespective of how long I leave the ignition on before turning the key, it turns over once and then conks out, then on the second attempt it starts right up. This only happens if the defender has been sat overnight and gotten very cold. If I'm using it during the day it's absolutely fine. Has just had the fuel pump checked so it's not that.
I don't really have an issue with turning it over twice first thing in the morning, providing doing that isn't damaging the engine in any way. |
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2nd Dec 2019 12:45pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5736 
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Mine starts much better since having the injector seals done and timing was also slightly out on mine. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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2nd Dec 2019 12:48pm |
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