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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
Milky oil rear axle
The next time I'll let someone else do the service. They never examine everything I do Rolling Eyes

But to add to the below list, I found the oil in the rear axle to be very milky (my guess is a or both seals are leaky). See photo below. I assume I have to replace seals on both sides of the axle. Drain the diff and replace the oil.

Do I need to flush the diff and yes, how?
And is this an urgent repair?

Thnx again (in advance) for your advise.



Click image to enlarge




It's starting to get a very very long list Evil or Very Mad
1. Coolant loss, luckily it drips so hopefully no head gasket. But Haven't found the leak
2. Aircon isn't working, haven't found leak
3. transfer box is leaking heavily
4. Stubs between exhaust manifold and turbo are still coming loose
5. Wobble at 50-60 mph, suspect steering damper, perhaps trying balancing beads
6. Seals shot at intake manifold (i guess)
7. And last but not least clutch is almost shot. Still have to decide between clutchfix and lof extreme clutch
8. Leaking injector seal a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #770274 26th Apr 2019 8:15pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19579

United Kingdom 
That’ll be water in the oil. Good job you caught it.
The diff pinion oil seal being shot is the common culprit for ingress.
I have had this seal play mine up multiple times, the reason has been unknown and even the pinion its self was changed to and it still did it.
For now, it’s okay.
Ingress via the hubs is not so likely unless you wade deep or depending on if you have sealed DM’s or not.

All you can do really is drain, then re-fil. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #770280 26th Apr 2019 8:35pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

Hi there,

This may or may not be relevant, as I don't know what axle breather/vent you might have fitted, but before you look at anything too technical, do make sure the water isn't getting in that way.

Check out this thread I started a little while ago
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic66305.html - (sorry, don't know how to make it a link on the ipad) You can see the state of the 'oil' I took out of my rear axle.

The consensus was that it's coming in via the breather, so I've opted for the Gwyn Lewis breather kit to make sure that I don't get water in that way. To be fitted in the next little while. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #770285 26th Apr 2019 8:47pm
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
Thnx Guys! Some more things to look at Laughing

I’ll look at both your solutions. But i don’t need to flush the diff? I thought draining Will not remove all the oil??

But seriously thanx again for your advise. Just a pity a need so much lately. a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #770291 26th Apr 2019 9:05pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
I'd flush the diff if my oil looked like that. Flushing is no more complicated than refilling with oil, taking it for a drive and then draining and refilling, though. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #770298 26th Apr 2019 9:31pm
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
Using the same oil as regular? Or can i use a cheaper product for the flush? a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #770299 26th Apr 2019 9:33pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19579

United Kingdom 
Moisture would still migrate up around the half shafts too.
If you did do what LRA mentioned you'd be best off leaving it for a while then change it over.
And yes, it'd need to be the same oil. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #770301 26th Apr 2019 9:42pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Yes, using the same oil. A cheaper alternative would do the job but as it's almost impossible to completely drain an axle, the remainder would just dilute the new oil added later. To be honest, the cost of decent gear oil isn't excessive anyway. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #770309 26th Apr 2019 10:06pm
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Tdi4



Member Since: 24 Oct 2014
Location: Houten
Posts: 513

Netherlands 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
To get back on your 2 posts. Just checked the rear diff pinion seal. Is too dirty to say for sure but the dirt is pretty greasy. So I think that's a culprit. I cleaned the diff and will look at it in a few days.



Click image to enlarge



The breather look pretty okay. I will change it somewhere in the future but when I change the seal I'll put some sealant over it.



Click image to enlarge
 a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover
Post #770366 27th Apr 2019 12:21pm
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