AndrewS wrote:

What's one on those ?

jst wrote:

X~eng ignition lock as another layer. Stops std steering lock being broken off.

AndrewS wrote:

Removable steering wheel with boss lock:- Positive = Cant steer the vehicle, Negative = ??? Please comment

If I were forced to have just one security measure then this would be it...Nothing is 100% but armed with several additional layers, this IMO is a very good measure...(I really don't understand why it isn't used more often).

Negatives... Not many IMO, you either have to get back to the Spline and a good Boss Lock and Security Fixings (or in my case something custom) can make this time consuming, and then carry a spare Steering Wheel (of the correct type) to get you past this measure.

Or some systems can be jammed with a screw driver or gripped with a G Clamp to gain enough purchase to steer away, but there are ways to minimise this 'failing'.

For Vehicles parked in the same place then coming prepared can be planned for but for random parking and being confronted with this for the first time, it's a strong physical and visual message.


Click image to enlarge

AndrewS wrote:

Tracker:- Seems a good idea to get your car back if it gets nicked, I dont want it to get nicked in the first place.

I agree...last resort, but have one (or two)

Also...
X Defend
https://foundry4x4.co.uk/pdf/X%20Eng%20at%...ctions.pdf

Security Marking
http://www.retainagroup.com/

BBS
I have a few of these fitted, both externally and internally. Not the standard LR BBS (Battery Back Up Siren) but an alternative. When triggered it is difficult to stay in the Vehicle

Good Luck. SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html

AndrewS wrote:

I have a very good 'fleet' policy all the vehicles with modifications and extras are recorded and kept upto date and photographs sent to my broker.

Fairy nuff.

In that case.. if you can/want--do some or all of these things depending on how much you want to spend.. But you're right a battery cutter/whizzer is your main enemy.

1. Keep it in a garage when not in use.
2. Aim for the holy-trinity of add-ons. i.e. Pedal lock, Steering lock, gear lock.
3. Put Liquid metal in all your door fixings to stop door removal. You can buy posh hinges too, but LM is just as good.
4. Bike cable and padlock the bonnet to the engine. Posh hinges also available if you want. Be careful not to get the padlock in such a position that it sits on the top of the engine, otherwise you'll dent your bonnet when you close it.
5. Battery loom bypass. One of the main weaknesses is the battery loom being accessible underneath the vehicle, so can be easily cut to disable the alarm/locks. The bypass re-routes the power inside the cab instead. Leave original, but dead, loom in place.
6. BBUS for the alarm and relocate it away from the behind the headlamp location. And/Or drill out/liquid metal all the headlamp fixing screw heads.
7. Pedal locks, generally good but be aware of the weaknesses. Get one that covers the pedal arms too, otherwise they cut the arms and drive on the stumps. Make sure it covers all the pedals too, not just the brake.
8. Steering locks good. If you go for disklok get it modified to ensure it can't be 'peeled' off. Don't get one that can be removed by simply cutting through the steering wheel. Leave parked on full-lock
9. Steering locks #2. If you can/want weld on your drop-arm bolts. Steering locks are easily defeated by removing the bolt on the steering linkages so the vehicle can be towed away.
10. Block it in when parked. Towing is your greatest risk. A cheapo solid draw/tow bar is the normal MO. They'll even drag them if needed. Lifting also a risk, but minimal IMHO.
11. Tracker. Either go the full monty and get a posh one, or do the diy iphone 'find friends' version. Cheapo Chinese trackers also work well. The issue with the radio/UHF/VHF trackers is they are often put in a handful of places, and there are tell-tale signs that give them away. Blocking of all trackers also a problem, with cheapo jammers available on ebay. So be aware of that risk.
12. If a 110, cut off the rear door lock latch knob. The small knob on the lock, so the door can't be unlocked from the inside if someone pops in the small rear windows.
13. Those small rear windows on a 110 are a risk. Be aware they can be popped out easily, but various fixes are available.
14. Protect the bonnet pull cable with a guard above the rad, and liquid metal or rivet down the screws on the wing top blanking plate on the drivers side to protect the cable under there too.
15. Bike lock cable and padlock your spare wheel to the carrier on the rear door.
16. Security mark everything, windows, panels, wheels, seats. the lot. Use VIN or VRM as an etch.

Lastly. Be aware that ALL of the solutions available have a work-around or weakness when used in isolation and the villains know them too. Don't fall for the vendors marketing guff, understand the workaround and seek to mitigate it. Add 2 or 3 different solutions if you can, but don't make your life hell when you come to use the vehicle or you'll end up not doing them at all and it's all for nowt.

Also.. understand your local risk. Do you live in a high risk area like Yorkshire, or somewhere more sedate. Ask the local plod about vehicle/rural crime to get some idea of what the risk is and how vehicles are stolen. Likely to be crime gangs using the same methods each time.