grafty99 wrote:

Range Rover update.

I taxed it at the start of the month and have been out in it a couple of times for essential shopping. What a beast! Measured 0-60 is 7.5 seconds

Today I spent the day flatting and machine polishing the paint. It's come up pretty well, especially considering the whole paint job (including consumables) cost less than £500



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Looking great there! that's quick for the weight of the motor, Did it spin the wheels on you?
how much does it cost to insure it? Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back

Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it!

grafty99 wrote:

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Looks like you really need to turn your attention to the 110 next as it's looking a little neglected next to the other two

VVS210 wrote:

grafty99 wrote:

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Looks like you really need to turn your attention to the 110 next as it's looking a little neglected next to the other two

Yes the 110 is the next on the list!

It's going to have a full body rebuild, so new doors, interior refresh and an obligatory £500 respray  2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html
RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton

grafty99 wrote:

Thank you, Paul

Col, it's pretty simple but you will have to be careful with aerosol as you have much less material to work with.

Plain water in a trigger spray bottle and 2000 grit wet and dry (I like Indasa products). Then with copious amounts of water, lightly sand the surface.

Three tips at this point ;
1) As your hand is on the panel, rub perpendicular to your fingers to avoid trenching.
2) Listen to sound it's making. If you can hear a gritty squeal, stop and wash the panel and abrasive with the trigger spray to remove the grit and stop deep scratches.
3) Keep everything very wet, if it's difficult to sand then it's too dry.

When you have a uniform surface as the panel is dried then you're ready to polish.


For this I use Farécla G3. This is where I'm afraid equipment does make a difference - ideally (and especially for aerosol) you want a speed variable polishing mop.

On it's lowest speed you want to slowly and with little pressure move across the panel. As long as you keep the mop head moving, the radius shouldn't be a problem. Edges are where you can burn through rapidly.

Polish the whole area for about a minute and then feel the panel. If it's starting to warm up then stop for a minute and continue. This is where it gets tricky as it's partially down to experience.

Once the cutting compound has broken down, you should be able to see the panels gloss underneath. At this point, with a clean cloth, you can buff the panel clean and inspect for any remaining flatting marks.

With experience you should be able to know how much more work a panel will need with the mop to remove the remaining marks. The problem is that with aerosol it's an EXTREMELY fine line between gloss and polished through.

If you can, I would sand with 1500 grit and put another layer of lacquer on it if possible. This will give you more thickness to work with and will, in itself, improve the finish

I hope I haven't rambled on too long