 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Stakenut to old style two nut system - unexpected moment |
 
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2735  
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Do the outer nut up tighter.
I do the inner one by hand/feel, then put the tab washer on, and then he outer nut which gets done up to F.T. with a big socket. Then tap over the tab washer each way. Very occasionally the whole lot moves a little when doing the outer nut up, but only as much as the tab will allow which is tiny really and shouldn't affect your preload. If youre concerned simply re-set it. |
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22nd Jul 2016 10:30pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Yeah, fair enough.
I guess this thread was me idiot checking it.  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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22nd Jul 2016 10:38pm |
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| davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888  
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I think you're over complicating things TBH. The design you are dealing with is pretty much unchanged for the last 70 years, you really don't have to be so precise or technical with it. It's an agricultural design not a top end sports car.
One thing I will point out though, there are two part numbers for the washers with flats, the early one is a looser fit than the later one so they do rotate a bit on the stub axle. Tighten the inner nut up while spinning the hub so that the bearings are settled, then back it off by 90 degrees. Put the lock washer on and then tighten the outer nut up as tight as you can, with a new lock washer the inner nut shouldn't move much but remember that you've now rotated the lock washer as far clockwise as it can go. Bend the washer to lock the two nuts, put it back together and don't worry about it. If you start measuring end float and messing about you'll achieve pretty much nothing and just give yourself a headache ! You might want to consider converting to oil too if you've not done already. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/ |
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22nd Jul 2016 10:43pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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'Tight as I can' would be my dynamic mass after falling 2.08 metres landing on the end of a 3/4" drive sliding t-bar set up parallel to the ground.
A wee bit over 61Nm  
I hear ya though, it's all good - in two nut system I trust Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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22nd Jul 2016 11:01pm |
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| dave18 Member Since: 11 Jul 2015 Location: Gorleston, Great Yarmouth Posts: 497  
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Lock nuts work by stretching either the nut or the shaft to form a clamp. 61ftlb wont do it, FT is the way
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23rd Jul 2016 7:59am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Lock nut will be under compression, stub axle will be under reactive tension. But you've got forces going all over the show with threads and thrust washers also, each with their own static/dynamic frictions - so that depending on which thresholds are overcome first (and in which direction) many things can happen.
Wee bit beside the point though, all that engineering wont help you much when you're doing it - unless you can figure out exactly where to apply grease to get the effect you're after 
In my case using more torque simply lead to the adjustment washer tightening ... Excuse my ignorance, but what exactly is an FT? At a guess I suggest it may prompt the  emoticon ... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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23rd Jul 2016 9:31am |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2735
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Fu**ing tight.
General torque setting for most big things on a Land Rover. |
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23rd Jul 2016 2:14pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1776 
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And this is why I like the modern stake nut system! One nut done to ft, then whack the collar flat to lock it off
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23rd Jul 2016 5:57pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Ah, and here's me thinking it was 'fu ck ton'
Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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23rd Jul 2016 7:54pm |
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| tuesdayfox Member Since: 23 Jun 2013 Location: Sydney,OZ Posts: 129 
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....I would like to point out that the exact same setup in a disco require a torque setting of 10 NM ,while the figure is 6 for a defender. the exact same lot, same bearing, same washers everything.
just saying |
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24th Jul 2016 11:24am |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347 
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Bit late I know but I have just done both brake disks and callipers and mine. Being an older defender it has a factory 2 nut system and a few oddities which make interesting discussion points. (one side is oil lubricated shafts, the other isnt-how they have lasted)
I have taken lots of photos and will be uploading a annotated thread to my build diary so we can all see what is involved and idiot check together. Watch this space
But the too long didn't read version is... Tighten inner nut against washer, back off a nip, put in tab washer, stick outer nut on tight, bend over tab washer, rotate wheel back and forth -should free wheel for 2 seconds-ish then reassemble the rest of it. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter  |
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24th Jul 2016 9:22pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Hello!
Nice to know someone else is wandering through the same woods at the moment
Hrrrm, well mine hardly freewheel at all, but of course it depends on how hard you spin 'em. Also how much grease has been packed in the bearings. Also if they're new they might need a bit more force/movement/heat than just that initial adjustment nut torque to get them all seated and 'run-in' - at least in my experience it was like that with bicycle wheel bearings and bottom brackets... For an idea of the spin I watched the YouTube LRToolbox vids, in one of them he did a bearing swap and two nut assembly, he spins it and it stops pretty soon. But again, no idea what force, what amount of grease or even if the hub was actually done properly or just for show. I'm going to run one wheel on steel so I can check for heat after 5min, 10min, 20min, 1hr... if they're good, I'm happy  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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24th Jul 2016 9:38pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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Were all in the woods man, its a Land Rover Owner thing
This was giving it a damn good spin, without the drive flange attached mind. With older bearings but packed with new grease- its one of those things where if you say "just give it a tap with a hammer" to 3 different people you get 3 different interpretations on what a tap is, from a gentle tick to a full on belt! I had a quick 45 mile trip on A-roads and motorways and at the end of it the hub was warm but no warmer than the rear hubs which were untouched
Sounds like you got everything right though! Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter |
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24th Jul 2016 9:54pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Good point re. having one to compare. Just remembered I've still got an old steel wheel with tyre installed laying out back. Sheesh I've even got a digital thermometer with surface probes!
Best would be two IR thermometers downloading data to LabVIEW/simulink as I drive
I love numbers, when they're working out for me that is  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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24th Jul 2016 10:15pm |
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