 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Brake Re-Build, But what else? |
 
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10383  
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Bearings as well, as you'll be removing them anyway.
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20th Jul 2016 10:55pm |
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| taazzukcb Member Since: 30 Aug 2013 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 663 
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Just source Timkin branded (box) bearings. Be much cheaper than ones in LR boxes.
May as well get them and just inspect what comes out. I'd normally replace if I have them anyway, but if what I take out is fully serviceable, I clean it up and give them a grease and keep them on the shelf. Sacrifice 1 or 2 old ones to use as drivers for putting the new'uns in. Just remember to slot them or you'll drive the old ones in too ha! |
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21st Jul 2016 9:06am |
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| Tommo Member Since: 19 Dec 2013 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 830 
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Why are you changing them...its a 2016 truck. Has there been a problem?
If you do need to change get genuine  |
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21st Jul 2016 5:08pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2736 
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Only change the bearings if they're worn or damaged. My front ones have done 120,000 miles and are showing no signs of wear. If greased properly, maintained, and not exposed to dirt/water they'll last almost indefinitely.
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21st Jul 2016 7:27pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Doing pretty much the same as you right this minute, but only discovered knackered caliper piston in the process of changing pads and rotors.
Bearings in mine after 100,000k looked mint, as did seals. But I had ordered new anyways... What wasnt mint at all were the halfshaft/flange splines, IMO at least one was very near failure, lots of crud in there from the fallout making its way toward the bearings, but hadn't made it yet (!). The diff ends looked mint, shows what a bit of lube can do! Caliper bolts are as reported, a pain, but doable with odd arrangement of extensions. What I want ready for was the amount of seized-up-edness of the stub axle bolts, the retaining plate sure prompts corrosion around that area! Quite a fair bit of cranking, creaking and cussing going on with them. All cleaned up, loctitededed and torqued now, so good to go. Should note a slider bar was really helpful to get the torques required to break the bolts, standard 1/2" no where near long enough, and the long breaker I was eyeing up the other day wouldnt have fit! While the slider won't angle like (most?) breakers will that's solved with a wobble style extension. If relevant, you might consider swapping from stake nut to older style wheel nuts like I am too. Which leads to the question: The big washer from the stake system was doing a reasonable job of stopping crud from getting near the bearings, can I use it again instead of the small one that usually goes with the 2 nut system? Or does it perhaps get in the way of the fold over tab from the locking washer?? Rear only so far, pistons/seals in the mail... will ride that, if all good, start on the front which includes swivel and CV swap out... (pitted swivel currently) Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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21st Jul 2016 10:10pm |
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| Morepower Member Since: 08 Jan 2013 Location: Fife, Scotland Posts: 630 
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Thanks Guys'... This is for my 110 (2013)... Just the brakes are quite worn so will do a rebuild... Great advice, Thanks everyone...
Cheers Tim It doesn't matter how bad it is, It can always get worse... 2013 Bowler 110 (Sold) 2016 Bowler 90 Rally Spec (Sold) |
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23rd Jul 2016 8:38pm |
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