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Stacey007

Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3696

Painting a sankey do I Red oxside first?

Hello

Given I have decided not to have the trailer sandblasted and painted professionally.. I'm doing it

The worse that can happen is that I do need to have it sand blasted etc afterwards...

Question, I've rubbed away all the flakey paint. Do I need to paint the whole thing in red oxide (or other primer) before a top coat?

I've been told to roller the paint on also for best finish.

Top coat I was thinking Hammerite smooth black (as my cars black) but would another other option be better as I've also heard this is hard to get a neat finish as it dry's quickly and also satin may give a better finish.

What have other people done with theirs?

I'm happy to just roller the inside of the tub with hammerite as I will probably try and cover this with rubber matting also but for the outside of the tub I would like it to look reasonable.

Thanks

29th Mar 2016 3:52pm

defender9

Member Since: 12 Mar 2016
Location: Fylde Coast
Posts: 1614

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green

I wouldn't use Hammerite, its awful stuff, drys too quickly and once dry and hard it chips off easily. I would use a normal brushing enamel from say The Paintman which you can use a roller to apply. As long as the existing paint is sound and well adhered to the steel, I would just flat it down and apply some primer to any bare steel.

29th Mar 2016 5:06pm

muddybaldboy

Member Since: 09 Apr 2012
Location: Ruthin
Posts: 395

Inside and out with Raptor lining.

I'll gladly bring the gear over and help. Just cover bare metal with upol etch primer then blast it on

He who dies with the most toys...wins!

29th Mar 2016 7:45pm

THF

Member Since: 18 Jul 2012
Location: Sunny N Hants or Pompey
Posts: 83

Stacey007,

I got a VGC Mk3 trailer off FleaBay; when living down Plymouth way I took it to a local sand-blaster, (he usually did yacht hulls so fairly gentle). He cleaned the MOD green back to provide a decent key, then Red Oxided it for me. Then I sourced some Chassis Black ( http://www.frost.co.uk/frost-chassis-black-paint.html ) and took it to a local body shop who thoroughly covered it it Chassic Black. I managed to ge this to do the job out of one tin, and pretty much got every nook & cranny. While this was going on I took the tub and got it sprayed to match my 110; all in all it looks pretty dam good. Once I dig some phots off my old mac I'll add them to the post.

Can't recommend it enough, that was 2 yrs ago, its stored outside under the original cover (& a little bit of tarp) and it still looks as good!!

Hope it helps!

THF

29th Mar 2016 10:06pm

Stacey007

Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3696

^ Some pictures would be great.

I'm not planning on getting it sand blasted and professionally sprayed though, decided to try to do it myself..

It will live in a garage so I'm lucky in that respect.

29th Mar 2016 10:21pm

LR90XS2011

Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3615

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green

spraying yourself in a garage can get great results but ditto from me dont use hammerite it is great on small cast parts but not great on big smooth areas. I would use paints that are suitable for spraying including the primer they are not that much more expensive and the results justify them. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy

Last edited by LR90XS2011 on 30th Mar 2016 10:00pm. Edited 1 time in total

30th Mar 2016 8:21am

Rosco

Member Since: 03 Dec 2010
Location: Burntwood
Posts: 1810

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red

No need for red oxide, just any primer will suffice, and a top coat/lacquer that is compatible together.

Speak to a local bodyshop supplier and they will helpful and knowledgeable. These guys could be local to you http://www.colourtone.com/

I used hammerite on the chassis of mine and as others have mentioned it dries way to quick to try applying it with a roller, and the outside of the tub painted by a friend of a friend in his garage for roughly £50 IIRC including materials and a drink.
[URL=]

Click image to enlarge[/URL]

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

2007 - Stornoway Grey 90 XS SW - Gone
2002 - Black Discovery II - Gone
2014 - Montalcino Red 110 XS SW

30th Mar 2016 1:16pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19620

Probably Epoxy primer would be most suitable.
If it was Alu which it isn't I don't think? Then Etch.

30th Mar 2016 1:23pm

X4SKP

Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2289

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

Hello Stacy007

I used Smooth Black Hammerite on top of Hammerites Special Metals Primer
(Aluminium Floor and Body Panels on a Rapier Trailer) All paint was applied with a roller.

Hammerite is the Marmite of Paints for some, but the formula now used changed a few years back and IMO
isn't the unforgiving product it once was. I obtained all the paint used free issue from a supplier to our business
so this did influenced the decision to use it, results are good enough and can be 'refreshed' as needed depending
on how hard a life the trailer has.

Click image to enlarge

Good Luck... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html

30th Mar 2016 1:40pm

Stacey007

Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3696

Hello

Thanks all, Did you people who have done this sand back right to bare metal everywhere?

Or as I have done remove the rusty bits and sand down the flakey paint then prime?

Such as this below, partly sanded to bear metal can I prime this whole panel and then top coat? Removing the Nato paint is a pain in the.... and too be honest the majority of it is fine I just want to change the colour...

Click image to enlarge

Thanks all

30th Mar 2016 3:03pm

X4SKP

Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2289

Hi Stacy007

If it's stuck...leave it stuck, just key the surface, and use an etch primer or special metals primer.
The primer is the 'key' here (sorry), any good paint isn't cheap, so surface preparation prior to the
top coat is worth it...also choose a warm dry day(s), mine took a weekend to paint when prepared...

SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html

30th Mar 2016 3:43pm

THF

Member Since: 18 Jul 2012
Location: Sunny N Hants or Pompey
Posts: 83

Stacey,

As promised:

Red oxide post fine sand blasting and sprayed on (Appreciate you intend to brush).

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

The I got it sprayed with Frost's Chassis Black.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

It leaves a fairly robust finish that retains its shine.

I then got the tub painted Oslo Blue and wax oiled the base:

Click image to enlarge

Hope it helps you with your plans

Jack.

5th Apr 2016 8:29am

Stacey007

Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3696

^ Looking great,

Have you a picture with the sprayed chassis and new top together,

Sent a PM

5th Apr 2016 9:19am

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