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Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma EGR blanking plate FREE :-)
Did this plate make any difference to your cars running.
Made no difference
20%
 20%  [2]
Made my car better and i will post the results
80%
 80%  [8]
Made my car worse and i will post the results
0%
 0%  [0]
Total Votes: 10

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Red Desert



Member Since: 23 Aug 2010
Location: Lake Constance
Posts: 53

Germany 
these guys have the know-how and a special tool to regenerate the software........it is only a matter of time. At the moment they fabricate new blanking kits .......like shown on the photo.......without the warning light in the dashboard switched off.

Just be patient........ Wink
Post #39516 1st Sep 2010 12:42pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2271

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
can the exhaust manifold handle the extra hot gases when blanking the EGR? Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #39523 1st Sep 2010 2:14pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
MK wrote:
can the exhaust manifold handle the extra hot gases when blanking the EGR?


?

no extra T° w/o EGR.

at full power (max T of escape gases) the EGR is closed Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License
Post #39525 1st Sep 2010 3:08pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2271

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Not sure how much is the max flow going into the EGR circuit, but again can the manifold take such volume? I´ve seen in this forum wrecked manifolds. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #39527 1st Sep 2010 3:40pm
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bell-auto-services



Member Since: 08 Jul 2007
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2232

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
The manifold should not be a problem, the egr would normally close well before max rpm.


Pete
Post #39550 1st Sep 2010 8:00pm
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2604

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
bell-auto-services wrote:
The manifold should not be a problem, the egr would normally close well before max rpm.
Pete


Pete, how come BAS does not do EGR blanking kits anymore? Question
Post #40397 13th Sep 2010 1:14pm
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bell-auto-services



Member Since: 08 Jul 2007
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 2232

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey
Post #40410 13th Sep 2010 3:30pm
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2604

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
bell-auto-services wrote:
http://bellautoservices.co.uk/products/landrover-egr-blanking-kits/puma-defender-egr-kit/ Thumbs Up


oh right, didn't see that. But you don't give any details of the setup - is it just a blanking plate? does the MIL come on and stay on?
Post #40438 13th Sep 2010 9:19pm
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BIGFOG



Member Since: 12 Sep 2010
Location: Edenbridge
Posts: 537

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
mrwoo wrote:
I'm having a problem fitting my EGR blanking plate to my new 110, this is the same plate I used on my 90 for the last 3 years with the hole in the middle. The problem I am having is with the new bolts attaching the manifold to the EGR system, on my 90 they were bolts that you undid and withdrew. On the new 110 they are nuts on bolts which means you have to move the whole EGR system backwards off the bolts to slide the plate in.

I'm sure anyone that has done this understands what I am talking about? How did you do it.

Thanks Rich Thumbs Up



Very late back on this one, but just fitted my BAS plate to a 2009 110. You need to take the two studs out through the manifold, once you have removed the nuts, if you do not have a Torx socket, I found that an old 7/32" socket did the job perfectly, then take out the two 10mm bolts at the back of the engine that hold the EGR in place to give you enough movement to slide the old gasket out and put the plate in - I have gone for a 12 mm hole as this seems to be a popular choice.

Hope this helps

Guy
Post #40640 16th Sep 2010 3:12pm
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Allan



Member Since: 09 Sep 2009
Location: Perth
Posts: 166

Australia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Naks wrote:
bell-auto-services wrote:
http://bellautoservices.co.uk/products/landrover-egr-blanking-kits/puma-defender-egr-kit/ Thumbs Up


oh right, didn't see that. But you don't give any details of the setup - is it just a blanking plate? does the MIL come on and stay on?


I have the same question, is this the fix?

Allan
Post #40744 17th Sep 2010 4:37pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Allan wrote:
I have the same question, is this the fix? Allan


Allan,

Have a read through this thread and all will become clear... Thumbs Up

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic3115.h...p;start=30 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #40751 17th Sep 2010 6:08pm
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BIGFOG



Member Since: 12 Sep 2010
Location: Edenbridge
Posts: 537

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
K9F wrote:
Allan wrote:
I have the same question, is this the fix? Allan


Allan,

Have a read through this thread and all will become clear... Thumbs Up

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic3115.h...p;start=30



In the thread everyone is using 18mm, I went straight for 12mm and have had no issues yet, been through about 6 drive cycles. The change has been quite dramatic, I have the BAS remap, the car is noticeably quieter, particularly at idle and there appears to be a little more power, but the delivery is much much smoother. Money well spent, thanks Pete!
Post #40769 17th Sep 2010 8:21pm
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Allan



Member Since: 09 Sep 2009
Location: Perth
Posts: 166

Australia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Thanks for that.

Allan Thumbs Up
Post #40782 17th Sep 2010 11:34pm
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
BIGFOG wrote:
In the thread everyone is using 18mm, I went straight for 12mm and have had no issues yet, been through about 6 drive cycles.


BigFog welcome to the forum... Thumbs Up I initially got my blanks from Robofarmer and was advised to 'start big and work my way down' each vehicle has it's own chracteristics and set ups (RAIs, remaps, air filters etc. etc.) I followed the instructions and have worked my way down over several months. I am now running on 10 mm and have had two recent incidents of code P1103 and a MIL light illuminating and this was after a considerable amount more than 6 driving cycles after fitting. I am considering going back up to 12mm and fully agree that it was money well spent. (As indeed was the scangauge that affords me the ability to read the code and reset my MIL light w ithout waiting a further 3 or so driving cycles). Thumbs Up If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #40786 18th Sep 2010 8:37am
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BIGFOG



Member Since: 12 Sep 2010
Location: Edenbridge
Posts: 537

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
K9F wrote:
BIGFOG wrote:
In the thread everyone is using 18mm, I went straight for 12mm and have had no issues yet, been through about 6 drive cycles.


BigFog welcome to the forum... Thumbs Up I initially got my blanks from Robofarmer and was advised to 'start big and work my way down' each vehicle has it's own chracteristics and set ups (RAIs, remaps, air filters etc. etc.) I followed the instructions and have worked my way down over several months. I am now running on 10 mm and have had two recent incidents of code P1103 and a MIL light illuminating and this was after a considerable amount more than 6 driving cycles after fitting. I am considering going back up to 12mm and fully agree that it was money well spent. (As indeed was the scangauge that affords me the ability to read the code and reset my MIL light w ithout waiting a further 3 or so driving cycles). Thumbs Up


Thanks for the welcome, Pete told me to start in the middle of the pack and after reading tbd other threads I went straight to 12mm. Is there an argument that the restricted pipe will be more prone to coking up, therefore reducing airflow, possibly resulting in the position you are in with warning lights after many miles without them?
Post #40805 18th Sep 2010 12:28pm
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