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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2466

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
LTB00585 Difficulty Selecting Gears/Poor Gear Shift Quality

This write up refers to:
LTB00585, issued 22 AUG 2013
“Difficulty In Selecting Gears/Poor Gear Shift Quality”


“defninety” has kindly put a copy of the LTB in his gallery here: https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...uality.pdf Thumbs Up - I suggest you print a copy of this in parallel to the procedure below...

The required parts (LR052893) are only 54 pence each (you need 2) – I got mine from Dan at Duckworths (and an oil filter as well to make the most of the postage).

You don’t need many tools, just a TORX (I think it was a T25), a 13mm socket (with some extension bars, and a universal joint), and a torque wrench would be useful.

First job is to remove the tray or cubby box from between the front seats (I have a tray because mine’s a County). In fact, on the County, the Torx bolt is the same Torx piece you need throughout…

Remove the tray:


Second, under the cubby/tray, there’s a steel plate which gives access below to the Transfer Box. It’s held in place by 4 self-tapping screws. You need to remove this to gain access to the Transfer Box Hi-Lo actuator later on.

Now remove the section of carpet which covers the transmission tunnel. I started from the passenger footwell, and lifted the carpet over the gear and transfer box levers (you could make this easier by removing the gear lever first, but I didn't suss that till later). It’s also a bit of faff to get the carpet from the area next to the handbrake. But with a bit of careful wiggling it all comes off OK. It should now look something like this:


Click image to enlarge

Note you can also see at the lower part of the picture that the transmission cover is removed (gap in carpet shows the transfer box underneath).

Now lift-off the rubber gaiter, which allows access to the clips which hold the gear lever. Remove the gear lever, and push the rest of the gaiter out of the way as per the pic.

Click image to enlarge


The foam insert (with the number 2 shown on the pic above) is just a push-fit, and will now lift out with a bit of wiggling, and expose this:

Click image to enlarge


From this point, two of the 13mm bolts are apparent, and the 3rd is tucked under to the front left of the transmission tunnel (hard to get at like this until the plastic transmission cover is removed).

I now removed the difflock/transfer box lever. You need to do this to gain access to the 4th 13mm bolt because it’s underneath Exclamation the transfer lever!

Reach into the transmission under where your cubby box used to be, and remove the hi/lo selection lever. It pulls-off the ball joint as seen here:

Click image to enlarge

And here

Click image to enlarge


Keep an eye out for this cover (plastic “tripod”) which protects the transfer box mechanism – remove it and keep it safe, I forgot it on reassembly and had to go back a few steps to put it in place:


Click image to enlarge


Take out the 4 Torx screws holding the difflock/hi-lo lever in place:

Click image to enlarge


Now lift out the difflock/hi-lo lever and linkage (neat fit, waggling needed).

To gain access to the 13mm bolt at the front LHS, I had to remove the plastic transmission cover which is held in with around 12 Torx fasteners (all the same size as the accessory tray and diff lock hi-lo lever). It’s a waggling job to get it off behind the handbrake. Once removed, the plastic transmission cover looks like this:


Now loosen (do not remove the front left, or rear right) all 4 of the 13mm bolts as shown in this picture (you'll notice that the lower right one is under where the difflock/Hi-Lo lever was):

Click image to enlarge


Remove the 2 bolts completely as shown here (i.e. front right and left rear).:

Click image to enlarge


Insert the spacer bushes (part LR052893) into the 2 locations shown above (i.e. front right and left rear).

Retighten all four 13mm bolts to 25Nm (I tightened the two with the spacer bushes in first to make sure they “located” properly).

Put the plastic transmission cover back.

Reassemble the difflock/hi-lo part (the 4 torx fastners are 7Nm I believe)

The difflock assembly attaches to two square pegs, and is a bit fiddly, trying to seat the lever and at the same time locate the square pegs. Pic:

Click image to enlarge


Remember the cover for the difflock/hi-lo assembly (the plastic “tripod”)

After that it’s a straightforward reassembly.

When putting the cubby back it’s a good time to get dynamat on the transmission covers.

This thread may provide extra interest when doing this job: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic27350.html (and also shows extra detail on gear lever removal)

How Long? It took me around 2 hours because of the poor instructions available...if I did it again (or you are more used to this type of work) then around 1 hour would be reasonable.

It may be an idea to start-up the Defender and check the function of the Hi-Lo and Difflock mechanisms before refitting all of the trim (just to make sure you connected it all properly).

Has it worked? - Well, it's hard to tell. Gear change is certainly no worse, and I think I detect a small improvement, but I'll need to do more miles in her...

It's certainly a cheap and relatively easy modification if you think your gearshift could be better.

Mine's still under Warranty, but I preferred to do the job myself (helped me understand my defender better), plus at 1-2 hours work it's easier than a trip to the Dealer... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Volvo XC70 (Work)
BMW K1200RS

Post #334101 28th May 2014 9:28am
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

this is very appealing, but the feedback im seeing from only two members, i know tats not a huge statistic, seems to be that the work is essentially wasted time. would be good to see how you feel after a few weeks. very in depth how to. always good to see a job before you tackle it.

Post #334836 31st May 2014 6:40pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8859

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green

+1

Have a watching brief on this and hope those that have done it will report back further on their experiences.

Post #335012 1st Jun 2014 4:09pm
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 2432

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Indus Silver

anyone with any feedback? have my spacers so will do it anyway but would be nice to hear if worthwhile Cheers, David

Post #339701 21st Jun 2014 5:29pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2466

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey

David. I have done around 1000 miles now since doing the mod. For me I think it's worthwhile. The gearbox does seem slightly less notchy, and I am happier with it. 1st & 2nd are improved. You still need to change gear slowly to change without crunching, but yes, overall I am pleased. Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Volvo XC70 (Work)
BMW K1200RS

Post #339989 23rd Jun 2014 6:24am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 12457

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

When I fitted my new clutch recently I fitted these spacers and also cleaned and greased the gear lever ball and knob (no sniggering please) and any other moving parts on both the main gear lever and transfer box lever and linkages. I also changed the gearbox and transfer box oil, and lubricated the clutch pedal pivots.

The overall result was a startling improvement in drivability and the gearchange has become a pleasure! I think that the biggest single factor was greasing the linkages and swivels, and I would strongly recommend that if you're going to the trouble of fitting the spacers you are liberal with the lube at the same time.

Post #340070 23rd Jun 2014 11:54am
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rtg



Member Since: 25 Jun 2014
Location: UA
Posts: 10

Austria 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black

I fitted mine ~10000km ago, major improvements especially when shifting 1st/2nd/3rd gear.

Post #343407 7th Jul 2014 10:18am
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Fish



Member Since: 21 Jan 2014
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 58

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey

Has the assembly changed for MY14 so do I not need to do it?

Post #343411 7th Jul 2014 10:45am
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2466

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey

According to the Tech Bulletin, the affected vehicles are:

Quote:
Defender (LD)
Model Year: 2007-2013
VIN: 7A732615-DA439235


You should be OK with a MY2014 model... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Volvo XC70 (Work)
BMW K1200RS

Post #343415 7th Jul 2014 10:52am
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Rickydodah



Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1091

Thanks to Martin for this howto. Did mine yesterday and was a lot easier with the guide, also took advantage of being able to reach the gearbox oil filler plug, so changed the oil at the same time. Definite improvement particularly 1-2-3 can change gear normal speed not having to wait between shifts. Thumbs Up Bow down

Post #358879 19th Sep 2014 9:46am
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2466

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey

Quote:
also took advantage of being able to reach the gearbox oil filler plug, so changed the oil at the same time


Great idea - wish I had thought about that at the time. If it's an easy job, it may be easier than crawling about underneath? Cheers for the tip Thumbs Up Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Volvo XC70 (Work)
BMW K1200RS

Post #358884 19th Sep 2014 10:23am
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dilukabey



Member Since: 17 May 2011
Location: Sri Lanka
Posts: 173

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
Diff lock position disengagement problem!

Hello Everyone, This is a very useful info. Mine is MY 09 and the gear changing is not that smooth.

Also I noticed that when i engaged high range difflock (moving the lever to front passenger side) i feel it does move but not enough (but diff lock illuminates on dash ok). Its a very narrow marginal movement just enough to engage the difflock resulting shifting back the lever to its original position with no force due to any rolling, bouncing, vibration etc on road. In other words I can disengage the diff lock with my pinky finger easily Sad Any Ideas?

Does this problem relates to this topic or should i check the diff lock lever linkages?

Thanks very much Very Happy

Post #372135 17th Nov 2014 10:14am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 12457

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

The difflock light switch is operated by the selector for in the centre diff housing, so if the light goes on and off correctly then the CDL is locking and unlocking correctly, whatever the movement of the lever.

I fitted four of these bushes to my '07 Puma when I fitted a new clutch earlier this year. I also removed, cleaned and lubricated the gear lever and housing, and the transfer/CDL lever and all its pivots, and lubricated the clutch pedal pivots. The overall result was far greater than I expected - for the first time the clutch and gearchange was light, smooth, precise, clunk-free, and I suspect far better even than when it left the factory.

I cannot of course say how much each individual factor influenced the overall result, but the result was definitely worth the effort.

Post #372137 17th Nov 2014 10:29am
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funrover



Member Since: 12 Dec 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 130

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

Anyone know how this improves the change? i.e what does it actually alter to improve the gear change Editor of FunRover - One blog. Read it!
Land Rover rebuild video series here:

Post #377886 10th Dec 2014 7:33pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 12457

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

The housing which carries the gear lever is resiliently mounted on rubber bushes. The modification restricts the amount of movement between the gear lever housing and the box itself and makes the shift less "flaccid" and a bit more precise.


And that's the first time I've used the word "flaccid" on a forum!

Post #377895 10th Dec 2014 7:49pm
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