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Home > Puma (Tdci) > LTB00585 Difficulty Selecting Gears/Poor Gear Shift Quality
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giacomo.m



Member Since: 06 May 2011
Location: Roma
Posts: 15

Italy 
OK
so is the regulation through the 2 spacer bushes enough ?
thank you
Giacomo
Post #967265 10th Oct 2022 4:27pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The spacer bush thingies restrict the amount of flex that was originally in the mount, and are worth fitting. They were introduced in response to the customer complaints of poor gear selection.

The alignment of the assembly is something which I, as noted above, have never found to be a problem. I will position the lever as centrally as I can, then check I can select all the gears easily, and then put the floor back. it's not the WSM way to do it (which requires the plastic alignment tool) but it has worked every time for me so far.
Post #967269 10th Oct 2022 5:00pm
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Gasket



Member Since: 30 May 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 629

Looking for a quick bit of advice from those who have done this mod.

So, I have the two bushes as well as the 308-561 aligner tool and hope to do the mod tomorrow afternoon.



Click image to enlarge



I've just been out to the Land Rover, took off the gearbox gaitor and foam insert and looked down on the shifter and shifter housing. I also had a look from underneath the vehicle. While I haven't undone anything yet, this is the conundrum:

1) Without removing the transfer box cover in the seat base, I can (just) reach the end of the high-low rod on the transfer box by reaching up from underneath. From the clear photos in the excellent original post, I understand this to have a push button release in the centre and, presumably it clicks back onto the ball when its time to reassemble.


2) I can get a small socket onto each of the four bolts on the shifter housing (shown in purple below from an earlier thread image) WITHOUT removing the plastic transmission tunnel and without unbolting/disconnecting the handbrake handle. I can reach in and drive these in situ or I have a flex drive shaft that will connect to the socket so I can drive (and torque) from the drivers seat.


Click image to enlarge


3) (the problem) I have some nice trim and soundproofing in my cab - it is very rigid and was a pig to fit and while it is 'removable', I really, really don't want to remove it as I know it'll be a nightmare on its way out and worse on the way back in. I also didn't cut an opening over the transfer box access panel, so I'd need to remove both seats, the cubby box and the trim in order to remove the cover (at which point, yes I'd trim the witness marks to allow access to the cover in future if I really have to access the rod from above).

So (the question) - I know I can reach the push button end of the li-lo rod to disconnect it from the transfer box from underneath the vehicle, then I would have thought I could remove the hi-lo lever without taking off the access panel. Then I also know I can access the four 'purple' bolts with the plastic tunnel in place too, so surely I can fit the bushes without removing the tunnel. That being the case, is there any reason why this wouldn't work? The four 'purple' bolts are listed in the parts catalogue as being 33mm long - which, given the gap under the tunnel I'd be able to withdraw completely without removing the plastic tunnel.

It'd be a fiddle, I'd definitely scrape my hands and wrists up and I'm sure that's why the workshop manual recommends the panel removal method, but wanted to check here first. If I do it my way, it'll be an unpleasant 30 min job - if I dismantle it all it'll be an even more unpleasant few hours and I'll likely damage the trim.

EDIT: answered my own question - yep, you can do it with everything in situ. The Hi/Low rod can easily be released and reattached from under the vehicle and you can loosen the bolts in the housing through the hole in the transmission tunnel (one is straight vertically down, two require a 1/4 ratchet with an extension and a UJ. The one top left (closest to the front of the vehicle on the passenger side) is a swine - you can just, just get to it with a UJ on a 1/4 extension before the joint binds up. Top tip: the torques specced for the fasteners are very small, way too small for my existing torque wrenches so had to treat myself to a little 1/4" torque wrench to do the job properly.
Post #972751 28th Nov 2022 9:12pm
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pedrocandrade



Member Since: 30 Sep 2022
Location: Rio de Janeiro
Posts: 24

Brazil 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Epsom Green
Hi, everyone.

I just had a word with my mechanic who searched for this bulletin on his LR systems for my VIN and couldn't find it, although my Defender is a 2011 and neatly fits within the bulletin's VIN range. He searched for other VINs that would fit the range and it also didn't appear.

I wonder: could it have been pulled by Land Rover?

Is anyone able to double check if it's still valid?

Thanks!
Post #1007763 15th Sep 2023 7:47pm
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pedrocandrade



Member Since: 30 Sep 2022
Location: Rio de Janeiro
Posts: 24

Brazil 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Epsom Green
Just a follow up. I applied the bushings with a well respected Land Rover mechanic (The Specialist, in São Paulo/Brazil) and saw no improvement to gear shifts. My troubles remain getting into first, second and reverse.
Post #1013447 1st Nov 2023 1:11am
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nicolas0505



Member Since: 23 Dec 2020
Location: briançon
Posts: 79

France 
Hi

try to drain the gearbox with the right quantity of 2.2l oil
Post #1014915 12th Nov 2023 7:29pm
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pedrocandrade



Member Since: 30 Sep 2022
Location: Rio de Janeiro
Posts: 24

Brazil 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Epsom Green
Thanks nicolas0505. I did the change yesterday and it turns out the box was indeed overfilled. Had 3.7 liters in it! I added the correct 2.2 liters of Castrol BOT 328 and saw a big improvement. When the box is at 40° celcius or warmer (checked from the bottom of the casing with an IR gun thermometer) it’s perfect. Starting at 25° celcius (ambient temp in Rio these days) I still need to sometimes revert to neutral to engage first. I can also “count to 3” after depressing the clutch and it will go in 90% of the time. There’s still the freak 10% of times where it doesn’t work at all and I need to engage 4th and slightly release the clutch to “move things around” before going back to first. Still diagnosing that.

Thanks for all suggestions. I wouldn’t have thought of checking the amount of oil in the gearbox without the help on this forum.
Post #1014932 12th Nov 2023 10:43pm
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