 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Hannibal ladder lower step question |
 
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6676  
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You will need to drill two holes for the lower pair of holes but when I had one fitted I only used the top pair of fixings and it was fine
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22nd May 2013 6:16am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7687 
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a patriot one only uses the top fixings and that seems to work Cheers
James 110 XS Utility 130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making) 90 Puma Hardtop |
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22nd May 2013 7:12am |
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| ronwong Member Since: 28 Jun 2012 Location: Singapore Posts: 120 
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Ok, if the top is strong enough I will just use those. Cool!
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22nd May 2013 7:17am |
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| Cracka Member Since: 08 Dec 2012 Location: New South Wales, Australia Posts: 129 
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G'day Lads,
I have just fitted a Hannibal rack and ladder to my 90 as well, finished the ladder yesterday. From what I gather (included instructions from Hannibal) you only use the top 2 bolts and attach the step to where the body bolts to the crossmember as in your piccy. The bottom 2 holes in the step are for a spacer, it should have been with the step, it is just a piece of ally plate with countersunk allen key head bolts to fix to those bottom 2 holes of the step. It is meant to take up the difference between the body and the crossmember, as the crossmember sits back a little from the body. I didn't actually use mine as I can just make the step onto the rear fold down step with my right foot and then my left directly to the bottom rung of the ladder. Does every body get some wind noise with their Hannibal rack, mine kicks in about 80 kph. Mick |
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22nd May 2013 8:31am |
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| ronwong Member Since: 28 Jun 2012 Location: Singapore Posts: 120
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I understand now. The bottom part actually just rest against the crossmember and when you step, it gives a slight counter force against your body weight. The spacer is to maker
Sure there is no gap so that it can add support. My crossmember is flushed to the bodywork, so I don't need it. Those 2 torx are hell hard to take out... Mine is the full 2.8 rack for 110 and yes, wind noise comes in about 80-90km, unfortunately. |
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22nd May 2013 10:24am |
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| Cracka Member Since: 08 Dec 2012 Location: New South Wales, Australia Posts: 129
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That's it mate. That's good you don't need the spacer then, the instructions in mine did say only if required.
Yes a bit unfortunate about the wind noise. It was unexpected as when I was deciding on what rack, I read sooooo many threads saying the wind cheater was noisy and the hannibal was great  oh well can't do much about it now. I'll have to pull the headlining and soundproof the roof and see if that helps.
Mick |
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22nd May 2013 11:09am |
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| ronwong Member Since: 28 Jun 2012 Location: Singapore Posts: 120
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I just installed the top part of the ladder, can i check, the clearance for the right side of the ladder vs the door is very tight? Ie, if my left hand is grasping the right bar of the ladder, i will slam into my fingers when i close the rear door? Also my rear door seems very tight now, probably some alignment issue, when i tighted the ladder nuts?
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22nd May 2013 5:09pm |
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| Cracka Member Since: 08 Dec 2012 Location: New South Wales, Australia Posts: 129
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Yes, the ladder is close to the door, just get in a habit of holding a step and not the vertical rail of the ladder when you close the door. I have about 4mm from the edge of the bracket that bolts to the body and the edge of the door opening.
I didn't have any issues with alignment. I put my ladder in position, tightened the gutter bracket and then marked the 2 holes to go through the body, removed ladder, drilled holes, replaced all and then tightened up, no issues here. |
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22nd May 2013 10:41pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512 
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How are these 2 bolts fastened? Are there captive nuts on the other side, a "nut plate", or just loose nuts - then are they easy to reach? Or is the crossmember tab threaded? Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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23rd May 2013 4:37pm |
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| SteveS Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: Devon & Berkshire Posts: 388  
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The cross member is threaded. When I mounted the ladder to the body where the holes line up to the capping/where you drill through I used 2 cheap tap washers (ie rubber washers that you put in the taps on your sink) to seal the bolt holes from water and to provide a bit of spacing between the ladder and capping. I also used an old inner tube cut to protect the gutter from the ladder. For mine I used the aluminium spacer on the step as discussed above. By the way if anyone plans to mount their 48" Hilift on the back crossmember - the step just misses the high-lift when it is mounted |
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23rd May 2013 7:41pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512
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Thanks. I guess this is for a Puma? Could one think this is the same for a 1996 300 TDi ? Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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23rd May 2013 9:54pm |
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| ronwong Member Since: 28 Jun 2012 Location: Singapore Posts: 120
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I put my hand in the inside and felt a nut there. I have yet to takeout the torx, its to tight. If you say the cross member is threaded, then probably that nut is welded into the cross member.
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4th Jun 2013 3:37pm |
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| Jimb1978 Member Since: 05 Sep 2012 Location: Huddersfield Posts: 804 
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If you look either side of the bolts on your 300tdi you should see some rivet heads that hold a plate with the two captive nuts on it. There is no extra lip on the earlier chassis crossmember.
This is from distant memory. Someone will correct me if I am wrong! |
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4th Jun 2013 5:06pm |
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| db950 Member Since: 01 Feb 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 559 
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The nut plate riveted on is only for the centre bolts, the outside crossmember bolts unfortunately have nuts on the back! Good luck with those, they get very seized. 1997 Ex-MOD 110, Pop Top Camper, build thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72352.html
2014 Discovery 4 SE Tech Instagram @the110camper |
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4th Jun 2013 5:52pm |
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