 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Work Light |
 
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| DLK Member Since: 12 Mar 2013 Location: Scheveningen Posts: 70   
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Look up a wiring diagram that uses a relay. use the feed from the reverse lights to switch the relay and turn on the power to the work light.
You do need a live feed from the battery with a fuse in it to the relay. Quite a simple setup that does not balast the current fuse for the reverse lights. Hope this makes sense to you
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13th Mar 2013 9:30pm |
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| StuLandy Member Since: 28 Jul 2012 Location: Here, there and Everywhere!! Posts: 43 
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Cheers for that. Forgot to add its LED 6x3watt led's.
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13th Mar 2013 9:34pm |
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| DLK Member Since: 12 Mar 2013 Location: Scheveningen Posts: 70
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Never mind the relay than... Just use a feed off the reverse lights. LED's do not draw a big current.
LED might not even work correctly on a normal relay.
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13th Mar 2013 9:39pm |
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| udderlyoffroad Member Since: 18 Jul 2011 Location: Bristol Posts: 124 
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Whoa there cowboy - 25 W (incandescent lights!) is the maximum permitted wattage for a 'reverse' light. A reverse light being any light that comes on when reverse gear is selected (obviously).
A LED worklight - even 18 W - will be greater than the light output of a 25 W incandescent light. Admittedly, this last sentence is my interpretation and the rules on LED-bulb equivalence aren't entirely clear. But why risk an MOT failure/argument with your local MOT tester for the sake of running a separate feed to the worklight? Doesn't mean you can't have two-way switch on the dashboard that switches the worklight on with the reverse when you're reversing off the public highway. You probably want to be able to switch the light on independently of reverse (e.g. so you can't get out and hook up a trailer in the dark). All of the above applies in the UK - apologies if you're not UK based Matt Real trucks don't have spark plugs |
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13th Mar 2013 10:16pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857 
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What's the point of a worklight that only works when the reversing lights are on (quite apart from the fact that it's illegal)?
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13th Mar 2013 11:36pm |
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| StuLandy Member Since: 28 Jul 2012 Location: Here, there and Everywhere!! Posts: 43
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The point being that if you turn your engine off with ignition on and have it in reverse, hey presto, light cometh on. Then there's no need for fancy wiring, switches here and there. But if you do spend 50% of your time reversing then unplug it........
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13th Mar 2013 11:50pm |
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512
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I would suggest a three-way switch (on-off-on) on the dash: 1) on when reversing, 2) off 3) manual on.
Place a relay near the work light with a feed from the battery, and feed the relay - depending on dash switch position) via the reversing switch on the gearbox or a manual live. Cheers, Vincent 1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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14th Mar 2013 12:33am |
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| x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327  
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If it helps, this is how I did mine using the spare purple and black wire behind the rear drivers side panel. This is on a Puma 110, not sure if the spare wires are on all models/ages.
One switch is in the back and the other is on the dash with the warning LED. It means I have a 2 way switch that I can turn on/off from the back or front. It doesn't work with the reversing lights but I can switch it on when I need to.  Click image to enlarge Here's the photos of the install; New fuse box and relay behind the rear drivers side speaker panel, utilising the "Purple and Black" Wires Click image to enlarge Rear switch connections with wires running off to the front switch and down to the new relay Click image to enlarge Earth connection from front switch, this was accessed through the speaker hole. Click image to enlarge Drilled through rear and used a grommet to feed the conduit through Click image to enlarge Wraped the end of the conduit and wires into light with self-adhesive waterproof tape Click image to enlarge The front switch, the LED was not installed at this point, it sits above the switch now. Click image to enlarge Rear switch in rear panel, high enough not be be turned on accidentally. Click image to enlarge Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography Last edited by x-isle on 14th Mar 2013 9:52am. Edited 2 times in total |
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14th Mar 2013 12:33am |
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| x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327
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A mod might want to move this to to Technical Craig Rogers
2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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14th Mar 2013 12:56am |
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| StuLandy Member Since: 28 Jul 2012 Location: Here, there and Everywhere!! Posts: 43
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Cheers for that Craig, that looks boss. Wil follow your example...
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14th Mar 2013 9:57am |
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| barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1411 
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Nice to see a proper job  . All too often see the bailer string and gaffer tape approach, then wonder why we have bad earths blown fuses and worse. Should think it took all of an hour longer to do and will last for years with no problems. |
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14th Mar 2013 3:58pm |
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| pope10001 Member Since: 15 Oct 2011 Location: Dulverton Posts: 489 
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Why not just have an On/Off switch on the dash? That way when you need it for reversing you can just switch it on, its not too much bother to walk to the front of your vehicle to turn it back off again once you've finished for the night.
Works for me. Regards, Mark |
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14th Mar 2013 4:08pm |
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| x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327
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The reason I have a 2 way is for my mountain biking.
Especially this time of year, getting back to the truck after a ride, I can just pop the rear door open and have light without having to worry about getting in the front. Just makes life a bit easier. To be honest, having one or two switches is not a lot of extra bother as the wires have to be run to the front anyway. Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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14th Mar 2013 4:10pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857
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Fair point. You don't actually need to stop the engine, you can put the main box in reverse and the t-box in neutral (I used to do this when shutting gates etc in the dark so that the reversing light was on). With a DC like mine you have an advantage when fitting worklights because all the wiring except the switch is present for the HRW. By substituting a permanent live (from the hazard switch) for the ignition-on live of the HRW you have a very simple relay controlled circuit with switch and binnacle warning lights. |
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14th Mar 2013 7:33pm |
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