Martin wrote:

Looking at the Td5 wiring diagrams, the smallest diameter cable is 0.5mm^2 thinwall per seat.. I would wire up with 1mm^2 thinwall per seat.

RRUK wrote:

do you need a special tool for crimping or insertion or just a standard crimping tool?

"Molex Crimping Tool" is the correct terminology. They are not cheap and if you know someone in the trade or has access to one a 'loaner' is the best and cheapest option.

With care and patience you can very carefully use a small pair of needlenose pliers to crimp the crimps. The two tabs at the rear have to be rolled around the insulation which can be fiddly. Buy extra Molex crimps and practice first. If you have a decent motorcycle shop and or electrical workshop near you you may be able to 'borrow' a tool with a suitable contribution. I did initially.

 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!

RRUK wrote:

K9F, Are Molex crimps also known as uninsulated terminals? My budget crimpers have slots for uninsulated. With practice I could probably do a decent job, I'm not a ham fisted oaf

NO! Budget pliers are no good. Below is a picture of the type of plier jaws you need. The 'W' or 'M' shape in the jaws is what bends the two rear tabs to grip the insulation.


Click image to enlarge If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!

RRUK wrote:

Any tips on what connectors to purchase for the fuse box end? I have the other bits and cable earmarked now.

I read that thread from PaulMC and the detailed photos but he doesn't give away what the connectors are called or who makes them.

i.e these:

They're Grote & Hartmann (now owned by the Lear Corporation) AFK terminals.

I can supply them for £0.50 each.

I have them to suit three different cable sizes.

More details in my post here - http://www.defender2.net/forum/post96207.html#96207


That post also gives details on how to insert them into the fuse box.


I can also supply the Black and Green 5-way switch connectors (the TD5 Defender uses a LH and a RH heated seat switch, one uses the Black connector, the other uses the Green connector).


I can also supply the proper seatbox male connector to mate with the connector on the trailing lead from the heated seat.


You can crimp most of these terminals with an el-cheapo non-insulated crimper, such as the D1 from VWP, or the TT70 from Polevolt.


But for small terminals found in MQS connectors (heated seat seatbox connectors), you really do need a more specialised crimp tool.

I can supply the seatbox MQS connectors pre-crimped to 0.75mm² cable of whatever length you require.


Wiring between the heated seat switches and the seatbox connectors is 0.75mm², which is the largest cable size that these connectors will accomodate.

.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

Martin wrote:

If I can't find a fuse box terminal then Ref: 3-8441/10 here looks likely http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Termina...tions.html

Polevolts 3-4647 is a closer match -

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Single_Fuse_Holders.html




...and fits perfectly.


I used to use these for TD5 fuse boxes.

. Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'