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| SJM2018 Member Since: 06 Jul 2018 Location: Bristol Posts: 296   
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Thank you for your replies.
So is it actually getting the tank down that’s the difficult part? Is removing the guard relatively straightforward? Or does the rear of the guard get stuck between the rear crossmember and the tank when you try to drop it down? To replace the breather, I just need an inch or so to fit my hand through. However, I’m like to experiment with some of the Bilt Hamber rust prevention products and I know that behind the tank hasn’t been treated (everywhere else has been dintrolled professionally every couple of years - which I’m beginning to think is a waste of money). I have taken your advice from your method and ordered some decent marine grade diesel hose. As it’s thicker, I’m intending to route it through the big whole like Blackwolf did, rather than squeeze it between the chassis and body. For reference, this is the sort of thing I was planning to use to spread the brackets - https://www.tubeclampsdirect.co.uk/product...9m___1_09m I would then use a heavy-duty sash clamp to bend the brackets back (assuming they deform while removing the guard). 2011 CSW XS 90 |
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6th May 2023 10:02am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2304 
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Hello SJM2018
For me I came to the conclusion that without making adjustments to the Tank Guard I wasn’t going to get the forward movement required to disengage it… (appropriately 30mm) Bending stuff out of the way may work… you’ll find out if you go in this direction. but to be clear, my judgement is that forcing the set up to a point where it disengages and drops (twists) out is the easier half of the operation… I would not like to reverse this procedure. In short both out an in are really difficult. As I say others have managed to gain enough space via various methods to squeeze in a change the Breather Pipe, if you’re adding in some sort of rust prevention treatment then unless I’ve misunderstood your description, you ideally need full access… so tank out. I just couldn’t get past the fact (in my case) that accessing my tank was so difficult and I wanted to do the full Dinitrol thing too (which has been an excellent product lasting now 8 years for me). As with any of theses Land Rover ‘work arounds’ the proof is learnt in the doing… I hope you succeed, if you do…. add to ‘the knowledge’  SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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6th May 2023 12:33pm |
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| Iktank Member Since: 08 Nov 2014 Location: Porthcawl Posts: 241  
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2014 90, decided to leak on my block paving
Read and read thro this and any other post I could find on how to deal with the issue, though surely it cant be that bad - How wrong was I 
I had already cut out the old tank cradle last year and replaced it with YRM cradle - pig of a job but made it slightly easier to deal with the current leaky pipe issue. I can not believe that the fuel pipe is squeezed between the top of the chassis rail and the floor pan 28mm OD pipe squeezed in a 27mm high gap, so impossible to pull the breather pipe out through this as the crimp clips are 32mm OD - Cut a hole 30mm dia hole in the floor pan directly above the breather pipe connection so I could disconnect the breather pipe on top of the tank - lowered the YRM tank cradle and the fuel tank approx 2" which opened up a gap to push breather pipe in to sit on top of the tank then pulled the breather pipe out of the gap that was created adjacent the main filler pipe connection to the tank. - Fed the new pipe in through the same hole that I removed the old pipe, The original pipe at 10years old showed no sign of deterioration it was the pressure relief valve that had failed - how can anyone de sooooo stupid as to position a valve at the same level of the top of the tank due to it being hidden behind the chassis rail - so I fitted the updated pipe/valve that places the valve just below the filler cap. Was going to do same touching up of the chassis rail but just could not bring myself to do it as the fun I had with the pipe sucked the enthusiasm out of me Last edited by Iktank on 4th Aug 2025 7:30pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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2nd Aug 2025 5:25pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2304
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Hello Iktank
Thanks for sharing...! This all adds to the sum of what we know about this triumph of 'that'll do' engineering design from Land Rover, (a nod to Mr Clarkson here). In my view it has not been thought through, size and shape of tank, compromised pipe route to filler area between chassis and floor pan, original position of breather non-return valve, later corrected, tank in first during assembly, then body on top, 'mad' original tank cradle geometry, improved by others, DIY in may case, now YRM, and to top it all a sub-standard quality OEM Land Rover Breather Pipe, that they know, (or at least both the mechanics and parts sales people at my local JLR Dealer do) has a life span of around 3-5 years, so its not a case of will it fail but when will it fail. My Marine Grade Diesel Pipe alternative has now gone double the life of the LR Pipe, I replaced the same Pipe on my wife's 110 even though it had just had a LR replacement fitted. The 110 was easy to do the 90 is however another story as you have found out! Good Luck... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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4th Aug 2025 5:22pm |
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