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TomB8

Member Since: 17 Nov 2022
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 110

TexasRover wrote:
I think you will get much better access by removing the front mud guard. It is relatively simple to do. I know we all try to do as little possible but it is quite enlightening to have a clear workspace

Do you mean the inner arch? If so, yes, I would probably need to if I were to carry out welding from the engine bay side. I'm going to do this from the inside though. As I already have the dash out and access is easy it saves the extra effort of removing the wing etc for which I perceive (and I could be wrong) to be little extra gain.

Thanks, rustandoil. I can't find my tub of kurust so I'll get some jenolite on order to try that. One day my garage will be tidy and I will know where everything is!

20th Mar 2023 1:46pm

Plumbers91

Member Since: 30 Jul 2020
Location: Manchester
Posts: 48

1989 Defender 110 200 Tdi HT Rutland Red

You’ll find quite a bit of the rust on the top of the footwells is from water running off the windscreen, down the channel and then dripping back down from the wing. You can use gum gum putty (I got some from Eastwood, look on frost.co.uk). And cover up the draining channel so it runs down the exterior of the car. Brittanica restorations covered a nice video on it. I’ll have a look for the link later if you want?

22nd Mar 2023 10:08am

TexasRover

Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 790

2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White

TomB8 wrote:
TexasRover wrote:
I think you will get much better access by removing the front mud guard. It is relatively simple to do. I know we all try to do as little possible but it is quite enlightening to have a clear workspace

Do you mean the inner arch? If so, yes, I would probably need to if I were to carry out welding from the engine bay side. I'm going to do this from the inside though. As I already have the dash out and access is easy it saves the extra effort of removing the wing etc for which I perceive (and I could be wrong) to be little extra gain.

I mean you remove the inner and the outer together. Top of my head:

- Remove fender flare. Just drill out the little cores and bull the little plastic clips and buy new clips to refit they are cheap
- bolts connecting fender to bulkhead - these are actually pretty easy to remove
- There is a little brace between the lower port of the outer fender and the bulkhead as well
- bolts that hold the inner fender to the frame
- Bolts that hold the outer fender to the frame and radiator bracket
- Single plug that connects all the front end wiring

I was breaking a car in my garden and I recall it was maybe an hours work to remove both sides.

Not sure LHD and RHD if there is additional connections, maybe the bonnet release cable etc, but should all be plug and play.

There is someone here repairing a DCPU and there is a picture where he has removed the same and you can see the great access that provides.

Last edited by TexasRover on 22nd Mar 2023 11:53am. Edited 1 time in total

22nd Mar 2023 11:24am

TexasRover

Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 790

Yes here we are: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic86884.html Pictures show the amount of space you get. Also be helpful when refitting all the clutch/brake stuff back

22nd Mar 2023 11:51am

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