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Home > Puma (Tdci) > Needles (presumably from a bearing) in engine oil !!!!
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Fernando



Member Since: 25 Oct 2017
Location: CABA
Posts: 84

Argentina 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Bonatti Grey
The only one that can have a needle bearing is the oil pump, there is no bearing inside the motor
Post #985413 13th Mar 2023 3:00pm
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MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 174

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
UPDATE

Could not wait for the weekend to assess what was going on so with a few hours on my hands, started to work on the engine.

I removed the injectors, the plastic camshaft cover, and rocker arms bridge/rail. An yep, it is just as Angus_Beef and cretesimon suggested. One of the rocker arm had detached itself from the rocker bridge, on cylinder 3, exhaust side (see A on picture). Another rocker arm is almost on it's way out, on cylinder 2, exhaust side (see B on picture)and rolling sideways on its cam lobe. I am really amazed that the engine was running "so well" with only one of the two exhaust valves working on cylinder 3.


Click image to enlarge


The gone rocker arm has been found trapped between the camshaft carrier and cylinder head, and obviously got squashed by its corresponding cam lobe against the carrier wall. This must have been violent as it has made the lobe to twist on the camshaft (for lack of better word)!! Also it was thereafter stuck in such a position that it was grinding on the shaft itself, slowly eating through it at each revolution. I guess it was not long before the exhaust camshaft would have separated in two pieces, leaving the 3rd and 4th cylinder with the exhaust valves closed at all time, a recipe for a catastrophic failure.



Click image to enlarge


The rocker arm once fished out, one can see some needles remaining in the bearing:

Click image to enlarge


So now, on to the repair.
This needs a new exhaust camshaft and new rocker arm bridge/rail. The head has some scars, but shall be fine, the springs and valves have miraculously been untouched.
I have decided to attempt the repair myself, and I have started to read the workshop manual to better understand how to approach this and what's needed in terms of new bolts, gaskets etc. So bear with me I will have some more questions along the way, for sure.

First question : is there a "cheat" to avoid doing the timing chain in full to change only the exhaust camshaft? This seems like a real pain. I would have thought that I could just unbolt the exhaust camshaft sprocket, keep its teeth in the chain while I take the old camshaft out, put the new one in and bolt the sprocket back on the new camshaft. This way I would not loose the timing. Does this sound right ?

/Mat


Last edited by MatLandy on 1st Apr 2023 3:02pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #985657 15th Mar 2023 5:50pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2218

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
You were lucky to catch that before any further damage occurred! Were there any running issues with it? > 110 XS Double Cab
> Instagram @simonlanemind
Post #985715 16th Mar 2023 8:55am
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MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 174

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Hank, yes I consider myself lucky to have caught the issue before the engine went completely bang. The magnetic drain plug catching the needles helped identifying the culprit quickly. Otherwise the oil filter was loaded with swarf, but that alone would have not given a clear indication on where the issue might have been.
To your question on whether there was any running issue with the engine lately, well as I described in my original post : "on the morning of the return trip from the Alps, I started the Landy after being parked for a week with -1°C, the engine felt like it was running on 3 cylinders, rocking on its mount, shaking the whole truck. I drove slowly, not pushing it, and after 10 min, once warmed up a bit, it was back to normal." Then drove 800km back home, engine was noisy but power was on tap as usual. There has always been clattering noise from the engine which I think I mistakenly took for a bad injector whereas it was more of a tappet noise. Or maybe I had both ...

Feeling a bit desperate today when looking at hours and money I need to invest to get the Landy back on the road. I think I need a break Big Cry

/Mat
Post #985720 16th Mar 2023 9:18am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 768

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Just remind yourself that in France your car in that spec is probably worth Euro 30-40k
Post #985724 16th Mar 2023 9:46am
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1829

MatLandy wrote:

Feeling a bit desperate today when looking at hours and money I need to invest to get the Landy back on the road. I think I need a break Big Cry

/Mat


I think many of us have been here, and can relate to this feeling. For me at the moment it's not money (I've already bought the bits and spent the cash) it's the time. Not helped by the fact that the temperatures have been somewhere between minus and +5'C for weeks.

As TexasRover says just look at the bigger picture and look forward to the good times! Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #985733 16th Mar 2023 10:27am
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6026

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
MatLandy wrote:


First question : is there a "cheat" to avoid doing the timing chain in full to change only the exhaust camshaft? This seems like a real pain. I would have thought that I could just unbolt the exhaust camshaft sprocket, keep its teeth in the chain while I take the old camshaft out, put the new one in and bolt the sprocket back on the new camshaft. This way I would not loose the timing. Does this sound right ?

/Mat


Crikey you were lucky there!

I would have thought there would be a clamp on "holder" to keep the timing gears in place. Maybe contact someone like Turner engnineers and see if they use/sell them?
Post #985735 16th Mar 2023 10:51am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 768

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
I had a 380 SL (Mercedes) with the 3.8V8 which was known to have chain guide issues. The internet was full of people changing guides and chains in situ. The trick is obviously to avoid ANY chain jump. The preferred method seemed to be tie wraps (it had a spoke gear wheel) and bungy cords to keep tension. Also markings using tip-ex style etc. You would also start on TDC with all marks aligned.

I would think that with some precautions like that you should be able to carefully remove a cam shaft from a sprocket and insert a new one. I certain would be trying it, but obviously I am not looking at the engine.

Obviously when it is all back together I would imagine it should be easy to verify timing is still correct and if not, well you would have to start again, but at least without concern of damage.
Post #985755 16th Mar 2023 1:19pm
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hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 310

MatLandy wrote:
[...]

The rocker arm once fished out, one can see some needles remaining in the bearing:
[...]



I feel your pain. But I would indeed check the number of rolling elements (needles) together with those already recovered from the oil pan against the original condition (complete numbers of needles), otherwise something may still be vagabonding in the oil circuit and lead to damage at a later date!
It's good that you tackle it yourself, connects you with the car Thumbs Up
Post #986078 19th Mar 2023 8:44am
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MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 174

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
UPDATE #2
The engine strip down has begun. I am determined to get that damaged exhaust camshaft out and a new one in. There are many parts in the way to be removed though, so going slowly trying not to break anything. I unfortunately don't have much time on my hands, so expect only small steps each time I work on the Landy.

progress so far:
- Fan, accessory belt, accessory drive component bracket are removed
- Crankshaft pulley is also out of the way, was a fight, those 3 bolts are f Censored tight, will need new ones as they are stretched ones I understand
- Drained the coolant in anticipation, that one was easy, quick wins makes me happy Laughing
- Managed to reposition the alloy bracket that holds the generator and A/C compressor, so I have access to one specific bolt that will need removing later to release the camshaft carrier. That was a pig to do, as you need to unbolt both the generator and compressor to access some of the bracket bolts, managed to do that without disconnecting any A/C line, so not bad. Bracket + compressor + generator are now held to the side of the engine with some straps, hopefully this will give enough clearance for the job ahead.

Should be able to remove the timing cover next weekend and assess if there are any timing chain damage. The more I think about it, the more I believe I should change the timing chain and camshaft sprocket anyway as well. These should have been stressed when the rocker arm got squashed under one camshaft lobe. Any view on this from the ones in the know ?


Click image to enlarge


Generator and A/C Compressor bracket repositioned to have access to this bolt and later remove the camshaft carrier:

Click image to enlarge


/Mat
Post #986154 20th Mar 2023 10:28am
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1726

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
I would think you're heading along the right lines there - I can't remember if you said the chain has been replaced in the past but for the sake of the extra cost, the peace of mind having a new cam chain and gear set will be worth it.

From your post your say the cam is twisted, so yes a new chain at least is something you can't skip.

Good luck

Keith
Post #986166 20th Mar 2023 11:57am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16808

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I think it would be a false economy not to replace the chain, and think how fed up you'd be if it failed after you had completed the work.

The bracket for the alternator is a major nuisance on the Puma, a ridiculous thing which inhibits access to many essential components. When I removed my exhaust manifold to helicoil the cylinder head, I thought long and hard about simply cutting the top off the bracket (since I don't have a/c) to reducing it to the minimum for the alternator and drive belt pulleys. In the end I didn't, but it is an absurd thing.
Post #986173 20th Mar 2023 12:34pm
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MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 174

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Yep, right, a new chain it will be then. Makes sense. And new sprockets and guides… the list for new parts is open Crying or Very sad
Also, checked the needles caught by the magnetic drain plug, and put them back in the rocker arm roller to see if I was missing any, satisfied that I have recovered them all Laughing

To be continued as they say.

/Mat
Post #986239 20th Mar 2023 8:29pm
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MatLandy



Member Since: 11 Sep 2020
Location: Paris
Posts: 174

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
UPDATE #3
And so the engine strip down is complete.
- Timing cover removed - will need a new one as I bent it
- Timing chain, cam sprockets, and guides removed - the guides are heavily marked as one can see on the photo, so definetely will need new ones, new chain, new tensioner, new sprockets.
- Cam cover and camshaft removed - one lobe on the 3rd cylinder of the exhaust side is out and twisted on itself. It is the one the rocker has gone missing. See photo of the old and new exhaust camshafts side by side as a comparison.
- Did a bit of cleaning, found some more remainings of the hydraulic lash adjuster resting in cavities on the top of cylinder head.
- Placed some orders with Turner Engineering an LRDirect for the parts that I have not already. I have been going either with genuine Ford from one or genuine LR from the other.

Happy to know that from here the rebuilt is commencing, still a long way to go though.

/Mat


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Post #986903 26th Mar 2023 5:15pm
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Angus_Beef



Member Since: 30 Apr 2015
Location: Oslo
Posts: 434

Norway 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey
Press-fit cam lobes are a new one on me. No idea such a thing existed! Roaming around 🇳🇴🇨🇭
Post #986906 26th Mar 2023 5:26pm
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