 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Needles (presumably from a bearing) in engine oil !!!! |
 
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Where the hell is this coming from ??? Any advice on what should be my next course of action ???
| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 621   
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That’s enough swarf that can’t be ignored, unfortunately ☹️ 2008 2.4 110 Utility XS.
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11th Mar 2023 8:01pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5420
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I can’t think of any needle bearings in the engine, and the fact it is running so well is very odd.
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11th Mar 2023 9:01pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16877  
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Does the little end bearing on the gudgeon pin have rollers on a Puma, I can't remember?
Mind you if that was the case I'd expect the motor to be knocking. |
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11th Mar 2023 9:42pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16877
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Answering my own question, apparently not. I'm struggling to think of any bearings which could dump rollers inside the engine.
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11th Mar 2023 10:01pm |
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| Muddybigdog Member Since: 11 Apr 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 992 
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Don’t turbos have some strange bearings in them? Plus lots of oil flowing past. Jumped ship to reliability - Mitsubishi L200
Puma 90 XS - Sold D3 - 2.7 S x2 (both Sold) Freelander 2 HSE - Sold Freelander 1 - Sold Disco 2 - Sold |
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11th Mar 2023 11:14pm |
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| Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434  
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I believe the rollers on the rocker arms use needle bearings Roaming around 🇳🇴🇨🇭
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11th Mar 2023 11:38pm |
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| cretesimon Member Since: 01 Nov 2021 Location: heraklon Posts: 45 
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I believe to from one of the rocker arms had the same thing on a VW golf
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12th Mar 2023 7:18am |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 176  
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ahaha interesting
appreciate all the insights so far 
you mean "This?"  Click image to enlarge In which case, still to be confirmed, it would mean that I just have to change the valve rocker arm housing (number 3 in below drawing, LR004443) and the Landy can be back on the road ? Or is there something else I am missing 
Click image to enlarge /Mat |
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12th Mar 2023 8:39am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1759
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If I was you I would remove the sump pan to see if there are any other metal particles in there. I think the sump pan also has a magnet, hence std sump plugs are not magnetic.
Removing the sump pan will require the fitting of a new one with new sealant but worth doing in my opinion. Ps once fitted coat new pan with chassis paint, then after a few weeks clean and coat with wax under-seal as they are thin and prone to rust. I would also be concerned of swarf in oil pump, oil cooler and other parts of the engine. Others may be able to advise on how the engine and oil components can be flushed out to ensure no particles remain. The oil filter, sump pan, magnet, and drain plug magnet hopefully caught them all but you need to check and flush as much of the engine as you can. Even then once the engine is back together I would do another oil and filter change after running the engine for 10 mins to see if any particles are on your sump plug magnet. |
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12th Mar 2023 3:10pm |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 325 |
1. What about the oil filter, what residues? Oil change without filter change should be avoided. 2. I would clarify the origin and number (!) of the needles beyond doubt and examine their potential sources and replace these (all). 3. Personally, I would not continue driving. Collateral damage would be pre-programmed. |
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12th Mar 2023 3:30pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 176
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have been busy with family commitments the whole day, so no progress on the Landy, however this gives me some time to think (for once) and as I also have a busy week (again) I will not be able to touch it before next weekend at best. The plan is to remove the rocker cover, rocker arm and assess, replace damaged parts with new, put back together and see what happens.
Ianh, yes the sump will be removed to check for debris etc. however I was under the belief that one can reinstall if carefully removed, and not necessarily need a brand new one? Also good advice from you, once fixed and new parts in, to perform 2 oil changes in a row (with short idling in-between). thanks. Hornet, 1- Sure, I always do the filter when I do and oil change. Although I did not went to that stage this time as I decided to stop immediately after finding the needles and swarf on the drain plug, and seek for advice on here first. 2- I am quite confident Angus_Beef and cretesimon pointed me in the right direction, should be one hydraulic lifter that has worked itself loose from the rocker arm, and got crushed by one of the camshaft, releasing its needles that I found in the sump. Now as to why this happen, I don't know yet. Found another post in the Australian forum that could very well be what is happening to me. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatt...2-4-a.html 3- Don't worry, I am not starting or driving it at all Will keep you posted with any findings as and when I have the time to work on the truck. In the meantime, any additional advice is appreciated. /Mat |
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12th Mar 2023 7:53pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1759
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You could, if very careful, potentially get the pan off without bending it... but given it’s a silicon seal not a solid gasket it’s very likely it will be slightly bent at best during removal. Also it’s likely suffering from some rust and therefore worth replacing as they do rust through and yours is circa 15 years old. Hence advice on painting and waxing new one.
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12th Mar 2023 8:41pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16877
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A 2008 vehicle may well have the sump that fouls the front propshaft. I'd fit a new one.
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12th Mar 2023 9:25pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 176
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My sump is the updated version, but will take your advice and source a new one.
/Mat |
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12th Mar 2023 10:11pm |
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