|Home > Europe > Underbody restoration / protection - Essex area?
Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Maybe this chap can help - good thread here on underbody corrosion work
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467.html 1999 Defender TD5 110
Econet Station 48 no clock
|28th Nov 2022 10:49am
Member Since: 28 Nov 2022
Brilliant thanks for the reply i will have a read through!
Last edited by 2hel on 28th Nov 2022 11:58am. Edited 1 time in total
|28th Nov 2022 10:51am
| Steve W
Member Since: 30 Mar 2014
Location: West Sussex
Having used the services of Chris I fully endorse the work and high standards adopted………..
I would have no hesitation in recommending him for defender underbody work, and protections / preventions.
|28th Nov 2022 11:15am
Member Since: 13 Dec 2008
You have PM
|28th Nov 2022 12:01pm
Member Since: 04 May 2015
You could try forum sponsor CSK in Buntingford James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
|28th Nov 2022 12:52pm
Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Any good to you?
|28th Nov 2022 2:22pm
Member Since: 27 Feb 2013
Location: Peak District
£60 for Lanoguard and 30mins of your time to apply it...
|28th Nov 2022 2:29pm
Member Since: 28 Nov 2022
Thanks for all the replies! It looks like the chassis has never been coated so it will need quite a bit of prep work before application. Just weighing up if I try and do this or get the professionals in !
Thanks again for the help
|29th Nov 2022 6:52am
Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Having an older defender I can confirm that the chassis certainly can suffer from corrosion. Anyone you get to do this work needs to understand the land rover chassis and the signs of deterioration due to corrosion as there certain "hotspots" that suffer more than others.
Having just done a number of chassis repairs on my 90 I can point out some areas that have suffered in my own particular case.
Bulkhead outriggers. Mine had already been replaced in the past and I knew they needed doing, but until I started removing them I didn't appreciate how bad they were. These collect a lot of crud/water/salt being flicked up by the front wheels.
Rear crossmember. The construction has lots of places that create voids but more significantly places where two pieces of steel lap over each other. This lapping of steel holds the crud/water/salt as previously mentioned. If yours is in good condition then its really important to clean it out and let it dry before adding any corrosion prevention products. I have just replaced mine with a galvanised one. This had already been replaced before but was already well on the way to needing replacement so I bit the bullet and did the full job rather than patching.
Rear outriggers. One of mine had rotted at the bracket that joins to the tub. I also wanted to fit rock sliders and on trying the tube that slides into the outrigger tube on the vehicle, corrosion inside the tube was preventing it. I tried cleaning it out but to no avail as its difficult to get inside to clean and the rot in some places just meant it was easier to replace.
Also check the A frame crossmember (not sure if that is the correct name) at the ends where it sits on the chassis. This is another crud holding area so needs a good clean and then treating.
Don't be fooled by any advertising of a product that tells you that you can just spray it on and leave it. If you spray on to crud it ain't protecting the steel. The same goes with paint - if paint isn't fully adhered to the steel then it's just holding water between it and the steel and aiding corrosion! Also areas between brake pipes etc.
I did lots of the cleaning of my chassis on my back with a strong nylon brush and a wire brush (if you have a compressor and blow nozzle this is also really useful). You soon start to find the areas that hold the crud and you will also start to note where the corrosion is.
Deal with the corrosion where you can, but this is hard work involving wire brushes, grinders, etc. Be very cautious of the rust converters - my experience of these has not been good. For a rust converter to work you need just the tight amount of rust - not too much rust and not bare steel - god knows how you get just the right amount of rust when using a grinder! From my limited experience you do lots of hard work prepping the area, paint this stuff on (it goes a blue/black colour), paint over the top, then go back in 6 months and realise you wasted your time!
So, a quick summary.
1 - you need to establish the condition of your chassis. This is best done by giving it an up close and personal clean.
2 - deal with any corrosion issues.
3 - establish what corrosion prevention method you are going to use and apply it well.
Look at the corrosion prevention guide on this forum. You will see how important it is to have a good chassis condition before applying your dinitrol etc. Now ask yourself these questions;
If I pay someone to do this, how much is it going to cost?
When I give it to someone to do the work, do they understand the land rover chassis enough to be able to do a good job?
Do I trust the people I am giving my truck to to do a good job?
Note that people with a good reputation for doing this work will have your truck for a number of days to allow them to give it a thorough clean and let it dry before starting to apply the corrosion protection - and that is on vehicles in good nick!
By the way, just for reference, my 90 will be 30 in February so a bit older than yours.
Good luck with it. Remember to ask questions and use photos for people to reference so they can give better advice.
|30th Nov 2022 7:20am
Member Since: 28 Nov 2022
Thank you for taking the time to write such a detailed reply it's much appreciated. I am on the fence about getting someone else to do it as I do have trust issues that said on face value it looks like the chassis hasn't had any protection for quite a few years.
I think it best I get stuck in and have a thorough inspection / clean up to see what areas need attention and then look at my options. I wouldn't see any obvious issues following a quick clean but do need to spend a bit more time inspecting it
It looks like the rear crossmember has never been replaced which must be rare these days
|30th Nov 2022 6:44pm
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