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jim4244

Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 634

1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green

ACF50 vs Lanoguard

Hi all

I have previously used Lanoguard on various cars including Landies but have recently been looking at ACF50.

I like Lanoguard as it is very easy to apply, is aesthetically pleasing once on and allows you to see what is happening to the surfaces it has been applied to, however the price has slowly been increasing and a 5L container is now £100.

ACF50 is £70 for 4L and allegedly kills rust on contact. It also has, just like Lanoguard, good creep qualities and self repairs. like Lanoguard you can use a simple trigger pump spray to apply.

I’ve not used ACF50 before so can anyone tell me if it cures hard like Lanoguard or does it remain sticky? Do components covered in it turn darker like with Lanoguard? I’ve hear that ACF50 has good lubricating properties?

Thanks

Jim

29th Sep 2022 10:38am

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

They are not comparable. ACF50 is good at what it does but is a relatively short term treatment that will wash off and need to be reapplied. A typical approach is to apply ACF50 and then something like Dinitrol over the top. There's lots of detail about this in the long running Corrosion Prevention Guide thread.

Lanoguard has been described as cheap and easy to apply but also as a glue. I'm not convinced that it's the rust-proofing panacea that many seem to think it is, to be honest. One of its selling points seem to be that you just spray it on and that it's a 'five minute job'. Having seen the lengths gone to for a professional treatment in cleaning and prepping before applying the final product, I just can't see how that's going to work

Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

29th Sep 2022 10:47am

jim4244

Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 634

Thanks Darren

Whenever I have used Lanoguard I have had the chassis and underside steam cleaned and hot hot washed down at the local truck wash. Then rusted areas have been painted in Aqua Steel and then, when everything is dry, the Lanoguard was applied.

I must admit that the ease of applying Lanoguard without all the mess of Waxoyl is a great case for using it.

Hmmmm I order the ACF50 thinking that it would offer similar protection to Lanoguard…

Jim

29th Sep 2022 10:58am

MartinK

Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2664

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey

Agree with Darren. I'm also a motorcyclist and use various ACF's and Dinitrol products.

This is a fab test of the various ACF's. I do use ACF 50 frequently (great for the rivets on a 110, and various parts of the engine bay). XCP is great but very "gloopy" and leaves a dark brown film. ACF365 is good after a wash to get into the nooks and crannies but requires regular (i.e. after every wash) application. ACF's are great for bright work (like say banjo bolts on your brake lines and rivets, door hinges, bonnet catches, parts in the engine bay etc)

I use Dinitrol products on the chassis etc. Not tried Lanolin Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)

29th Sep 2022 11:19am

markb110

Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2522

I like Lanoguard (not just the smell….

).

It’s easy, mess free, if you get any one the driveway it just disappears after a short while without having to do anything or even cover the ground.

And because it is easy I find that I am more likely to apply it when I have a spare hour.

Also because it is DIY it just makes you feel good after doing it.

Have fun….and be quick, winter is coming.

29th Sep 2022 11:54am

camelman

Member Since: 27 Feb 2013
Location: Peak District
Posts: 3321

Re: ACF50 vs Lanoguard

jim4244 wrote:
Hi all

I have previously used Lanoguard on various cars including Landies but have recently been looking at ACF50.

I like Lanoguard as it is very easy to apply, is aesthetically pleasing once on and allows you to see what is happening to the surfaces it has been applied to, however the price has slowly been increasing and a 5L container is now £100.

ACF50 is £70 for 4L and allegedly kills rust on contact. It also has, just like Lanoguard, good creep qualities and self repairs. like Lanoguard you can use a simple trigger pump spray to apply.

I’ve not used ACF50 before so can anyone tell me if it cures hard like Lanoguard or does it remain sticky? Do components covered in it turn darker like with Lanoguard? I’ve hear that ACF50 has good lubricating properties?

Thanks

Jim

you won't need 5 litres of lanoguard for a single vehicle, the 2Litre pack is more than enough for a defender with some left over.

29th Sep 2022 11:55am

Screbble

Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2028

2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver

I agree with other members.

ACF50 is great as a periodic/occasional corrosion prevention and protection treatment rather than a permanent underseal or chassis protection.

If you are a fettler or tinkerer like me then you’ll find the use of ACF50 quite an addiction

As for underseal and chassis/cavity protection I’ve always used, and have never had any issues with, Dinitrol. I use a 3 stage approach like many others, and as already said that subject is covered extensively already on here

29th Sep 2022 12:56pm

Mossberg

Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 552

1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green

I have just used fluid film on the underside of the truck. Lanolin based but it wS a lot cheaper than Lanoguard. Just ordered 19ltrs for £127 delivered.

It applied similar to Lanoguard - I used the same spray - but looks wetter when applied. I then spread it with a paint brush (I put plenty on!).

There is plenty on YouTube about fluid film.

I bought mine from a company called Comfish Marine, so being sold to people with boats!

I used the "Liquid A" but there is also NAS which looks a bit more like grease. I presume I have picked the correct one for spraying under the truck!

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge
Fluid film next to 2ltrs Lanoguard.

I didn't think 2 litres was enough for my 90, but I may use more than I need too!

29th Sep 2022 3:32pm

Mossberg

Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 552

Just to add to my previous post, the reason I have used Lanoguard/now fluid-film is that I want to observe my chassis. My truck is 1993 vintage and if it starts to corrode I want to know. Having to do this yearly will make me look too.

Also, I would not apply anything that is not clear over any type of paint, especially the devil's own formula black paint that is applied to many replacement chassis parts.

29th Sep 2022 5:49pm

Leamreject

Member Since: 19 Dec 2020
Location: Middle Earth - Leamington Spa
Posts: 955

I use ACF50 on our blood bikes before winter, short term it works well but after a winter of everyday riding its horrible to remove in many places. All of the road dirt has stuck to it. But it protects the surfaces very well so I continue to use it

Ride like you stole it!!
If I’m not on a bike it’s because only a 4x4 will do…
2011 2.4 Puma 90 HT

29th Sep 2022 7:47pm

LandymanStefan

Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 860

I originally painted my chassis with a dinitrol/waxoyl type product called ardrox av30 and I own a motorcycle that I spray yearly before winter with acf50. From my experience I much prefer acf 50 as it’s easy to remove at the end of winter using a water based degreaser and wash off and it seems effective at preventing corrosion. The issue with the more permanent dinitrol/waxoyl solution is if you want to sand something back and do a bit of painting or touch up on the chassis if you see a bit of corrosion peeping through its an absolute nightmare to remove, it clogs up flap discs wire brush wheels etc. Also if you want to re apply the product it’s a so difficult to remove to apply a fresh layer it’s frustrating. I wish that I just sprayed it with acf50 when I first got it then I could top up, wash and re apply whenever I wanted.

30th Sep 2022 9:38am

jim4244

Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 634

Thanks for your thoughts guys.

Here’s the plan - Anything that moves slightly underneath has been sprayed with ACF 50 so bushes, ball joints, prop shafts etc. When dry I will over spray the entire chassis and underside with Lanoguard.

Mossberg - I paid £105 for 5L of Lanoguard so you found an absolute bargain! Any chance you can post some photos of when it has dried/cured on the chassis?

Jim

30th Sep 2022 10:01am

Mossberg

Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 552

Will do Jim. I will see if I can add some of when I applied it.

This is it going on after warming it in some hot water. Before it was warmed it did not atomise as well.

Click image to enlarge

This is it on. When it goes on it just looks wet and it can run. I used a paint brush to even it out and get rid of the runs. It seemed to run more than Lanoguard- is that good or bad? Runny means it will get into places easier but I am not sure how it will go regarding staying on. I did feel it would get into nooks and cranies. It did seem to drip quite a bit, but that could well be because I applied so much as I was happy I had plenty to do so!

Click image to enlarge

I will take some more photos after its been on two or three weeks and post them up.

30th Sep 2022 1:10pm

Jhollow

Member Since: 27 Apr 2022
Location: Ontario
Posts: 81

Fluid Film is readily available over here (the grease looking one) and it is what I and many others have used primarily for rust protection. I have also watched this guy as he does numerous tests on various undercoating rust protection products and his finding were typically pro Fluid Film, until the latest video. He found something better.

This is a new product out by the same people that give you PB Blaster. Blaster Super Shield is also a lanolin based product. I will be giving it a try as I just picked up 6 aerosol cans as I am in the States at the moment. I don't know its availability in Canada or across the pond. 2006 90 originally registered in Italy

30th Sep 2022 5:43pm

SteveG

Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 656

LandymanStefan wrote:
I originally painted my chassis with a dinitrol/waxoyl type product called ardrox av30 and I own a motorcycle that I spray yearly before winter with acf50. From my experience I much prefer acf 50 as it’s easy to remove at the end of winter using a water based degreaser and wash off and it seems effective at preventing corrosion. The issue with the more permanent dinitrol/waxoyl solution is if you want to sand something back and do a bit of painting or touch up on the chassis if you see a bit of corrosion peeping through its an absolute nightmare to remove, it clogs up flap discs wire brush wheels etc. Also if you want to re apply the product it’s a so difficult to remove to apply a fresh layer it’s frustrating. I wish that I just sprayed it with acf50 when I first got it then I could top up, wash and re apply whenever I wanted.

If it’s Dinitrol - previous applications can easily be removed with white spirit.

1st Oct 2022 8:45am

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