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| SFWrover Member Since: 10 Feb 2022 Location: kruger national park Posts: 2   
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So we paid $350 USD in Zambia and they bypassed the immobilizer completely started right up after we reconnected the ECU.
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17th Feb 2022 9:59am |
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| DaktariRP Member Since: 25 Aug 2022 Location: Mississippi Posts: 5  
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Hi, all. New to your forum, but have been driving my TD5 for 11 years now, no major issues. Until now. I live in the US, so there is no reservoir of knowledge on TD5s and certainly not immobilizers.
I have sudden issues with the AS10. I have centralized locking, 2 Plips, so assuming my truck has the ALM ECU (black AS10). Had one intermittent issue where dash immobilizer light flashes, then everything went back to normal, engine cranked. I assumed the battery was low on the Plips, so replaced it as per workshop manual. No luck with that. I tried the second fob, no luck there, either. I noticed that the central locking does not occur with the fob or manually. Nor will the starter engage, but I can hear the fuel pump come on and the glowplug indicator lights up. I have a Nanocom unit, and am working through all the settings, downloaded the latest System Overview from Nanocom. But there are no clear answers for me as yet. So, how did they bypass the AS10? Why can't you simply run a positive feed wire from the ignition directly to the starter relay? |
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26th Aug 2022 4:55pm |
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| DaktariRP Member Since: 25 Aug 2022 Location: Mississippi Posts: 5
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Update #1. I was able to confirm that my immobilizer ECU is the green one, which indicates it is the older, unavailable AS10 model.
Update #2. While checking the main engine ECU located under the seat, I found the DREADED OIL CONTAMINATION at the red multi-pin connector. I know. I have actually replaced the injector bundle with "O" ring within the 15,000 mile recommendation, but there it was. Now, I'm thinking that the engine ECU may be shot, causing all the grief. I took the ECU out for inspection, but stopped short of removing the top cover, thinking I might be about to unseal a hermetically sealed unit. But I would love a look inside to see if oil actually worked its way into the unit. Anyone know if those special star-drive screws are there to prevent massacre? And while we are at it, how the heck does the oil travel so freely along the cable bundle? It's almost as if the oil is actually tracking INSIDE the sheath of each wire. Further, what am I in for with this revelation? HELP!! So, I now have two problem sources, wondering which is the likely culprit, and how to tell which is the culprit. I am on my own here in the States. Haven't found anyone over here who has dealt with this TD5 issue. |
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26th Aug 2022 8:52pm |
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| SteveG Member Since: 29 Nov 2011 Location: Norfolk Posts: 656 
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Oil rarely goes into the ecu as the pcb mounted connectors are sealed. It’s shorting between pins at the connectors that causes the issue. However, you can easily open the enclosure to check. Just need to remove torq screws and sealant.
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27th Aug 2022 7:56am |
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| DaktariRP Member Since: 25 Aug 2022 Location: Mississippi Posts: 5
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Steve, thanks for the reply. I did carefully clean the contacts at the engine ECU and refitted. I am still suspicious of the AS10, as before I had the issue with no starter response, my remote door locking was working. No remote function with door locks occurred at the same time as the starter and the blinking warning immobilizer light on the dash.
I am still wondering if there is a way past the immobilizer. |
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27th Aug 2022 4:39pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1736 
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Sounds like you have a blown fuse to the 10AS . so check them, it’s a common fault on the Puma 110’s as a wire from one of the B pillars to one of the passenger doors breaks, shorts, blows a fuse that is also used by the 10AS and the vehicle won’t start as the 10AS has no power so vehicle is left immobilised.
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27th Aug 2022 5:17pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857 
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When I had the oil/ECU problem with my Disco2 a significant amount of oil did get into the ECU. Steve is correct saying that the connectors are sealed, but they are sealed against water ingress from outside the shell, not from within the shell. Oil will get in the ECU if enough makes it into the connector.
There is however no reason why you can't remove the ECU, carefully open it up, and clean it with brake cleaner. Avoid static, handle carefully, and you should be ok. It worked a treat for me. You will of course break the seal on the ECU but they're all out of warranty now. |
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27th Aug 2022 8:49pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1736
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Hi Blackwolf, I’m not familiar with the TD5 , so would the known issue with oil in the ECU connector or ECU cause the central locking to go faulty at the same time the engine would not start ? I ask as that’s what DaktariRP stated, hence I thought it may be a power to the 10AS issue.
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27th Aug 2022 8:57pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857
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I think the thread has wandered a little off track. I don't think that the OP's problem is caused by oil ingress I to the ECU, but it is an odd problem.
The reason that there is a procedure for disconnecting the battery is only to avoid setting off the BBUS (battery back up sounder) of the alarm, if one is fitted. It shouldn't make any difference to powering down the ECU or any other system. It rather suggests that something else has failed concurrently with the battery disconnection. |
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27th Aug 2022 9:45pm |
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| DaktariRP Member Since: 25 Aug 2022 Location: Mississippi Posts: 5
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First, I have to say a big THANK YOU to those of you who have come to my rescue.
I do have yet another update. When all else fails . . . so I decided it was worth a try to see if the EKA code would possibly pull my fish out of the fire. Son of a gun, the beast fired right off. Not only did it crank using the code, it now continues to crank right up with the key and Plip. I will note here that the workshop manual states that the EKA bypass must be re-entered each time you crank without the immobilizer. So far, that's not the case. Just for the record, I removed and replaced each and every fuse I could find just prior to the above success, thinking the immobilizer ECU fuse might have been blown, or at least a sketchy connection from corrosion at contact points. I did, in fact, re-try normal cranking with key and Plip with no success before I tried the EKA sequence, so I'm not certain that I solved anything by my fuse check. Only after entering my EKA code did the problem go away (at least for now). I'm speculating here, that the rolling code was somehow lost, and I could not reset it following the Plip battery exchange sequence stated in the manual. It is of great comfort knowing that the truck cranked, and that I can re-start in an emergency using the EKA bypass. Plus, it rules out a dead engine AND immobilizer ECU, as well as the starter solenoid possibility. I would welcome any further thoughts on the matter, and hope this thread can help someone else. |
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28th Aug 2022 2:30am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1736
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Great that you are up and running again
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So my understanding is the 10AS does not just send a set voltage to the ECU, else you could easy bypass it. It sends a specific signal. I’m expecting it is something like a sequence of on offs / varying voltages to form a digital code. When you initially pair the 10AS to your ECU that 10AS code for your specific 10AS is recorded in the engine ECU. Each time you attempt to start your vehicle the engine ECU expects to see that specific code from your 10AS, else it won’t start. The oil in your connector to the main ECU could have been increasingly interfering with that signal with varying resistance / intermittent shorts, not sufficient to blow a fuse but to confuse the ECU to an extent it required the EKA to be entered. This has worked and continues to work as you have addressed the cause by cleaning the oil from the connector. If however the issue returns it may be that oil is in The ECU as Blackwolf highlighted , rare by the sound of it, but possible. Else it could be more oil in the connector. Just my best guess on what may have caused the issue based on the info you have provided. Ps. Is your defender called Clarence by any chance , with slightly offset headlights  |
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28th Aug 2022 10:34am |
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| DaktariRP Member Since: 25 Aug 2022 Location: Mississippi Posts: 5
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Haha! My Defender's name is Mamba, the cross-eyed snake! Thanks for the technical help. I would still like to permanently bypass the immobilizer, so any advice regarding that would be welcome.
I'm not really worried about a car thief stealing the Mamba. Nobody in the U.S. can even find the ignition switch, as it is on the left side of the steering column. Further, it is a stick shift, and most millennials don't know how to drive one! |
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29th Aug 2022 7:56pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1736
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To bypass the 10AS on a TD5 the ECU needs to be programmed and a smal amount of wiring done. Bell auto services can do it but you would need to send the ECU to them to do so which may be costly and has some risk given you will be sending from the USA. See https://bellautoservices.co.uk/store/immobiliser-removal-td5/
Ps they are a very reputable company, Pete is renowned for his engine maps and knowledge in this area. I think there are other box’s you can fit and program with something like a nanocom to pair with the ECU, however you would in effect be replacing the 10AS electronics with some dumber electronics so unless your 10AS is dead then is that worth it ? |
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29th Aug 2022 8:47pm |
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| Rutlandtravels Member Since: 13 Apr 2024 Location: Napoli Posts: 6  
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Will you kindly confirm the EKA procedure? I have it line by line in original manual, but what about the plips? Do you need to have fob at the ignition or completely removed from the area? I’m trying to re-mobilize a 1998 300tdi. Cheers.
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13th Apr 2024 12:44pm |
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