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Ghound



Member Since: 03 Jul 2018
Location: northern ireland
Posts: 45

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Alaska White
From the pics it seems your door skins are made from Zintek, there steel with a micro coating of zinc, so be sure you paint them well as they will rust out very quickly if not, once they get wet between frames and skin they will corrode.
The coating is really only to protect the steel while in storage it doesn't protect the same as galvanised steel skins.


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bodstruck wrote:
Well, they turned up quicker than I was anticipating. Well packaged and an initial inspection shows not damage. How well they fit remains to be seen but no reason they should not be good Thumbs Up



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What prep do I need consider? The galv is a bit rough so am I safe to sand that down? Presume then some etch primer and then top coat. These are not going to be sprayed, I will either use coach enamel or rustoleum combicolour applied with brush and roller.
Post #938984 23rd Jan 2022 2:15pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6266

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
can I enquire as to why you won't be spraying them? Thumbs Up
Post #938997 23rd Jan 2022 3:14pm
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 552

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
I agree with this. As a sheet metal worker in a previous life, I can assure you zintec gives very limited protection. Treat it as if its mild steel. If anything has been spotwelded that is an area that is likely to be subject to corrosion. Remember any galv/zinc would be burnt off when when the weld takes place. The real area to consider is between the two pieces where the spotwelded is. If these areas are where water or moisture will sit it will be a real contender for corrosion. You need a good penetrative rust inhibitor here.
Post #939003 23rd Jan 2022 3:26pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2087

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Pennine Grey
@ghound - Robert, any plans for Front doors to match my galv rear door ?
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.
Post #939010 23rd Jan 2022 3:50pm
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Ghound



Member Since: 03 Jul 2018
Location: northern ireland
Posts: 45

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Alaska White
Hi, yes I'm serious considering making them, but they wouldn't be exact copies, I'd like to make them a bit tougher.
Post #939012 23rd Jan 2022 3:53pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2087

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Pennine Grey
Sounds good, I'll wait with baited breath 👍
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.
Post #939031 23rd Jan 2022 5:34pm
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 552

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
Ghound wrote:
Hi, yes I'm serious considering making them, but they wouldn't be exact copies, I'd like to make them a bit tougher.


Looking forward to seeing this. Good luck with it.
Post #939034 23rd Jan 2022 5:47pm
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Intercept



Member Since: 27 Feb 2017
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 587

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
I thought that my doors from SP were skinned with Zintec, but the description below states that their steel skins are electroplated:

https://www.sp-4x4.com/category_s/437.htm
Post #939070 23rd Jan 2022 7:50pm
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 552

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
Just for your information. I picked this from the Web;-

Zintec is created by using the process of electrolysis to coat the mild steel with a thin layer of zinc, typically between 1.0 and 1.75 microns thick, a more precise method of zinc coating than other methods such as hot dipping.

The finished Zintec metal can be produced at varying thicknesses between 0.4 and 2.0mm, with a matt grey finish that is notably different to untreated mild steel. It is important to note that Zintec is designed to protect the mild steel during transport, storage, manufacturing and production processes; it is not suitable for use in corrosive environments without a paint coating or other protective application
Post #939087 23rd Jan 2022 9:08pm
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Ghound



Member Since: 03 Jul 2018
Location: northern ireland
Posts: 45

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Alaska White
I make all the components including the skins
anyways as i restore original doors, so it shouldn't be a big leap to make my own version.


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Mo Murphy wrote:
Sounds good, I'll wait with baited breath 👍
Mo
Post #939107 23rd Jan 2022 11:01pm
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 552

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
That's interesting. Have you considered doing a stainless steel version?
Post #939121 24th Jan 2022 3:17am
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bodstruck



Member Since: 09 May 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 788

United Kingdom 
Caterham wrote:
can I enquire as to why you won't be spraying them? Thumbs Up


Facilities and cost really. I had a Clarke temporary garage while I painted the td5 but that has gone now so I don't really have anywhere suitable for spraying. I do have a concern about getting in to the nooks and crannies inside the door so the priming may be a mix of rattle can and brush. For the topcoat I will be going for a satin finish and I have found brush and roller to be perfectly adequate for my needs, loads cheaper (as I can do it myself) and easy to patch or re-do in the event of scratches or damage.
Post #939216 24th Jan 2022 2:52pm
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Ghound



Member Since: 03 Jul 2018
Location: northern ireland
Posts: 45

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Alaska White
Stainless is a lot harder on the machinery to work with, it wouldn't be something I'd consider doing.


Mossberg wrote:
That's interesting. Have you considered doing a stainless steel version?
Post #939374 25th Jan 2022 11:11am
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 552

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
I fully understand but it's a shame as what a bonus that would be - though they would probably be out of my price range!
Post #939396 25th Jan 2022 12:56pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3214

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Some people go to great lengths to isolate steel fasteners to minimize galvanic corrosion. Stainless steel is a bit further away than aluminum on the galvanic table so the galvanic reaction is larger due to greater potential. Having huge stainless steel panels fitted to each side of a defender is asking for trouble.

Galvanized (not zintec) sheet metal is the best material. Most manufacturers give life times in excess of 30 years (bare galvanized) in relatively corrosive environments, like gutters etc. The reason that galvanizes steel has such a good life is the huge surface are of the zinc compared to the exposed area of the steel.

Maybe galvanized doors may protect your chassis (although I doubt) Rolling with laughter 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #939489 25th Jan 2022 7:13pm
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