 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Newbie:- essential upgrades |
 
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| Shax Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: London Posts: 391   
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Quality! Don't forget to rip out the utterly shyte stereo, and put something decent in... Oh, and definitely a tape measure to check the local carpark entry heights!  ... ,-------,
.. I [__][_]|__ .. I __ |"_|"__| .. "(o)====(o)" ^^_-^-_^-^_^^^^^--^^^^ PAUL G7ALW 14.200 USB 26FB458 / 27.275 SSB |
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5th Oct 2011 8:19pm |
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189  
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...............and don't trust the carpark height signs  BM52 |
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5th Oct 2011 8:37pm |
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| szracer Member Since: 10 Oct 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 356 
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Well, if you are talking about add-ons that help to make sitting in the Defender a more comfortable place, then here are a few suggestions.
I've done approx. 20k miles in my 110 in the last year. Not a huge mileage by sales rep-mobile standards, but enough in a Defender to appreciate the 'creature comforts'. And before any of you 'knit-your-own -yoghurt-my-Defender's-held-together-with-spit-and gaffer-tape' types try to disparage this, nothing I've done has affected the off-road ability of the Defender one iota... 
Oh, and just did a 9 hour trip from Spa to the Cotswolds in the 110, towing a race car and trailer, and not only was it remarkably comfortable, but happy cruising at 80mph (allegedly, officer) thanks to the BAS remap. My 'almost invisible but make a huge difference to comfort' suggestions are (in order): - Bilstein dampers all round - Mud Rails - Noisekiller kit (including the underbonnet blanket if you can stretch to the cost) - Decent stereo - Powered subwoofer (mounted mine underneath the rear seats) - Nakatanenga under-cubby safe box (raises the cubby box up to allow it to be a great armrest when using mudrails, too) - Decent spotlights (mounted to soft a-bar on mine and come on on full beam). Probably less important if you don't live in the back of beyond, like me. - curry hook! - Nakatanenga door straps (replace the plastic handles, and stop them from digging into your thigh!). - Lumbar support!! I took an old Sparco race seat pneumatic one I had, and by carefully open the seat back and sliding it between seat heater pad and foam, got it to fit beautifully. Seat closed up and it's invisible, apart from rubber bulb to inflate. Makes a HUGE difference. You can get them from Exmoor for £30-ish, I think. - 2-stroke in the diesel. Makes my 110 run a lot quieter, and smoother. Was dubious at first, but after 16k miles on it, no ill-effects, quite the opposite...! I'll get me coat...  
2010 110 XS USW (the slow one) 1960 Alfa Romeo Giulietta SZ (the fast one) 2005 Ducati ST3 1954 Sunbeam S8 |
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5th Oct 2011 8:47pm |
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189
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i made similar changes and what a difference. i did'nt add the Nak stuff, lumber support or the noisekiller and Koni instead of Bilstien....i also add 2 stroke and it really does work IMHO BM52 |
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5th Oct 2011 10:35pm |
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| johnnyboy Member Since: 04 Oct 2011 Location: newcastle Posts: 20 
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Two stroke oil in the fuel that sounds interesting anyone had any issues with it?.
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6th Oct 2011 1:04pm |
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| MaxD90 Member Since: 26 Sep 2011 Location: Dominican Republic Posts: 12 
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I agree with the lumbar sopport. Big difference! James I dont understand "2 stroke in the diesel". Can you give me more details? Thanks! One life, live it. |
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7th Oct 2011 1:37am |
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189
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2 stroke.....see here
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic1708.html?highlight=stroke BM52 |
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7th Oct 2011 8:13am |
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| CityDriver Member Since: 27 Sep 2011 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 60 
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For every newbie’s benefit, I have tried to summarise my take away from this topic and earlier research.
Firstly there are the “must have” items that I will do ASAP after taking delivery of the vehicle: 1) Getting cavities & underside treated: I am thinking of using Dinitrol and getting it done at a “respected” place. I don’t care much about a £100 more or less and don’t have the time and space to do this in January… Will make sure they do all capping’s, bulkhead, doors, rear tub spreaders – does anyone have the full list? 2) Doing the extra rust prevention with ACF-50: Front grill (take off and paint brackets/screws), seat bases/frames, wing mirrors, window latches, headlight rims, and any other internal screws/nuts and hinges. Again – Does anyone have the long list for this one? 3) Fixing the rear mudflap: After all the horror stories I will order the Entreq re-enforcements (http://www.entreq.de/products/reinforcemen...ngers.html). Actually, I will order the now and deliver them at the dealer, so he can fit them before delivery (he, I’m a lazy :censored: ) 4) Getting an early life oil change for engine, diffs, gearbox & transfer box: By the sounds of it this seems a sensible way of preventing trouble later on 5) Buying mats: I had already specified rubber mats all-round on my new 110, so this is dealt with Secondly there are some items I am strongly considering doing either ASAP as well or perhaps after some months of driving: 6) Having a tracker fitted: I need to look better at the on-going costs, but it seems a reasonably small investment for a good night’s sleep? Anyone with tips on this topic? 7) Adding “body protection: I already have the soft A-frame bar, hinged lamp guards and rear step bumper specified on my new vehicle. I will consider adding rock and tree sliders 8) Fitting a noise killer kit: This depends on how I experience the 110 in my first months. I don’t think noise will be an issue for me, but it is an option I will definitely consider if it does become irritating 9) Getting tuition: Fair comment by one person in this topic, but I will consider investing in some decent tuition to learn more about the vehicle 10) Upgrading stereo: Again, I will first do with what I have and see how we move on from there 11) Remapping: I just like a bit of extra power, blame me 12) Installing decent spotlights: I would like them mounted to the soft A-frame bar Thirdly there are the items I need to check on delivery of the new vehicle. Please help me complete this list, it would be super helpful to actually just send it to the dealer beforehand, so he can make sure this is all in good order before I pick it up (always easier than arguing later on). 1) Check if the red engine hoist bracket is taken off 2) Check if capping's are sealed to stop water ingress 3) Check if doors are properly hung 4) Check if handbrake is properly tightened 5) Check tyre pressure 6) Check bonnet striker 7) Check key fobs & emergency access code Lastly:
Zagato, can you specify this a bit better? Do you mean getting all windows resealed just because the standard sealing is so poor? Last edited by CityDriver on 7th Oct 2011 2:46pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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7th Oct 2011 9:17am |
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| pom Member Since: 01 Jun 2010 Location: Worcester Posts: 1343 |
Remember a lot of the expensive items on your list are only really relevant if your keeping the vehicle more than 5 years. Save your money and swop it in after 3 or 4.
Pom |
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7th Oct 2011 9:29am |
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| CityDriver Member Since: 27 Sep 2011 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 60
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I am planning on keeping it for life. I have high hopes.
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7th Oct 2011 9:42am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
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IMHO hinged lamp guards make cleaning a pain, can chafe the spare wheel and cover, can result in corrosion and more panel damage if clouted than if they were not fitted. Side lights are pretty cheap anyway but I'd go for the plastic guards that fit via the lamp screws themselves than have the body drilled to take lumps of iron.
Anyway, as regards the 'full list' of this and that - it's all on this forum and others already so sorry but I'm not personally going to spend time regurgitating what's been posted time and time again [for example just go back and browse the 10001 questions that Zagato asked after he first joined]. However I will add that you should get some protection on the rear and sidesteps, towbar, mudflap brackets, aircon fan brackets, headlamp bezels - in fact consider anything metal externally that's not been painted in body colour is ripe for rust or oxidisation. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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7th Oct 2011 12:58pm |
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189
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[quote=" - in fact consider anything metal externally that's not been painted in body colour is ripe for rust or oxidisation.[/quote]
now that is depressing.........  BM52 |
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7th Oct 2011 1:04pm |
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| CityDriver Member Since: 27 Sep 2011 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 60
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Fully understand the point, and I tried summarizing things a bit to centralize some of the comments made. My key question is actually the items to check on delivery, I have not found a lot on that, except some bits and bobs in different topics. |
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7th Oct 2011 2:00pm |
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| farmer giles Member Since: 09 Feb 2011 Location: worcestershire Posts: 1299 
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ffs don't put anything chrome on your land rover unless you are a pikey and your wife does palm readings
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7th Oct 2011 2:48pm |
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