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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 568

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green

Wow that looks fantastic Mike! Like you say, working out where all the brackets go (especially when you took it apart er.. X years ago) is an interesting puzzle at times. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW

Post #911508 8th Jul 2021 9:38pm
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Linds Hanson



Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 90

United Kingdom 

Rednaxela wrote:
If I could find a defender 50th system, cats/Y-piece... Confused

As has been mentioned anyway, I was thinking I ought to use the silencer/rear section I have as they are Stainless and in good order.


Linds, I will probably send the R380 to Ashcrofts to get rebuilt/strengthened. I wasn't completely sure about the higher 5th - was thinking maybe get a Roamerdrive instead. Currently with the 300Tdi there are many roads I use where 4th is just a bit too low and 5th a bit too high, but of course it would be a bit different with the V8 I presume.

Yep, I've read a bit about the 19J td radiator being a good option, I see AlliSport do a Defender V8/50th radiator, and would save me from having to get and older one re-cored.

Is your 300 in good health and running standard 1.4 transfer gearing? If so it should pull 5th gear up and down dale without problem? Ive found the higher V8 5th gear with 1.4 or 1.3 transfer gearing to be the best all round combination with a 265/75x16 or equivelent tyre. 1.2 makes even a 5.2 RV8 lazy on motorway hills. I would go with a original TD rad over the fabricated alloy versions

Post #911610 9th Jul 2021 1:07pm
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Rednaxela



Member Since: 23 Sep 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 31

United Kingdom 

Somewhat further afield than Staffs Mike Laughing I appreciate everyone's willingness to help, however I don't want to be too much of a burden either.

All stock Linds.


Engine mounts - I guess I could find a technical drawing showing exactly where they should be fore/aft and height-wise too. I know that the rear edge more or less lines up with the spring/turret bracing on the chassis but I could do with a bit more precision. I would be getting a nearby fabricator to come over and weld them so wouldn't want to be faffing around with the other technique of lowering the engine to the rough location then getting it out of the way again.

Keeping the old 300Tdi mounts is impossible I presume as they would be in the way of the manifolds.

Post #911891 11th Jul 2021 11:36am
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Lodelaner



Member Since: 04 Feb 2010
Location: Hungerford
Posts: 465

United Kingdom 1988 Defender 90 V8 Petrol ST Shire Blue

Rather than measuring the mounts and welding it’s easier to mount the gearbox, support it and then crane in the engine to guide the engine mount positions.

RE 50th manifolds and Y piece - use a D1 V8 post 1994 manifolds and down pipes with cats which bolts straight to the Td5 centre box.

Re cats: pre 2002 you can choose to either associate emissions to the age of the engine, or the car. So if you have a pre 1992 engine you can ditch the cats.

Ref trans gearbox I totally agree with the previous comment: 1.4 ratio is perfect and the taller 5th makes for good cruising. I’ve 1.4 ‘d two previous V8s, one was a 50th, the other manual. I’m about to do it to another 3.9 R380 combination. JB

@Lodelaner Instagram

Youtube greenlaning and other LR related content

Post #911935 11th Jul 2021 6:23pm
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Linds Hanson



Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 90

United Kingdom 

Rednaxela wrote:
Somewhat further afield than Staffs Mike Laughing I appreciate everyone's willingness to help, however I don't want to be too much of a burden either.

All stock Linds.


Engine mounts - I guess I could find a technical drawing showing exactly where they should be fore/aft and height-wise too. I know that the rear edge more or less lines up with the spring/turret bracing on the chassis but I could do with a bit more precision. I would be getting a nearby fabricator to come over and weld them so wouldn't want to be faffing around with the other technique of lowering the engine to the rough location then getting it out of the way again.

Keeping the old 300Tdi mounts is impossible I presume as they would be in the way of the manifolds.
If your welder isnt confident welding with the engine in situ you could get a old 3.5 block and just bolt that up to the box for alignment purposes. Ashcroft does the V8 weld on mounts

Post #912007 12th Jul 2021 10:47am
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Rednaxela



Member Since: 23 Sep 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 31

United Kingdom 

Before I get to that stage, a few more bits to pick out. The two manifolds below are pretty much identical I presume, despite the Discovery 2 4.0 ones obviously being more recent, yet strangely cheaper, I think both sellers are breakers. The older ones haven't had their studs snapped yet, which could play a part in the price.

Some of the holes in the D2 ones look bigger than 3/8 also.
Thoughts?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304018726515?ha...SwhSxgt1zs

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274783723549?ha...Sw6~xgkBoP


Edit - well, obviously the holes are all 3/8. But I've read that the disco 4.0 seemed to use spacers between the bolt heads and each manifold, but they are not used on the p38 tubular headers. Confused

Post #912576 15th Jul 2021 8:46pm
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mikeh501



Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 994

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 V8 Petrol SW Alpine White

Hi Red, Some pics here which I hope helps a bit on what mine looks like under the bonnet so to speak. FYI, my exhaust is a D2 v8 Y pipe with cats (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141604469381) , slightly modified def td5 centre silencer (mod is hanger placement) and then a bog standard td5 rear silencer iirc. The exhuast manifolds are d2 cast ones. I can confirm the manifolds and y pipe fits with no modifications. This is also a 4>2>1 exhaust so maximises torque from what I understand.


Click image to enlarge

Allisport shiny bits. I can confirm that these 4.6 run hot and radiate loads of heat. It sits around 87c and upto 95 when caning it in the sun lately. Having met a couple of guys with v8 defenders, one v8 isnt like another. one guy running a 4.0 and completely std setup actually runs v.cold, greenis 4.6 runs fairly hot with vents in bonnet and fans on perm feed etc, and mine runs hotter than both tbh. no idea why, but possibly lack of vents, its got cats and my headers and down pipes arent wrapped, all of which id recommend. I would also put heat reflective stuff on underside of seat box and floor as being a soft top it tends to suck the heat through the floor via low pressure id think.


Click image to enlarge

Side tank with RR classic in tank pump and inline filter on chassis rail.


Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge

Showing a custom cross member which had to be modified further for exhaust clearance. Proper NAS ones are like rocking horse...


Click image to enlarge

my headers.

Post #913134 19th Jul 2021 8:14pm
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Rednaxela



Member Since: 23 Sep 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 31

United Kingdom 

Thanks Mike.

I ordered the Disco 2 manifolds... One small step Laughing

When removing the P38 headers, the nearside went a treat, the offside resulted in two snapped bolts.

Post #913141 19th Jul 2021 9:00pm
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Rednaxela



Member Since: 23 Sep 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 31

United Kingdom 

I removed the heads today, one of the pistons has the classic 'steam cleaned' appearance. The gasket looked good however, as do the surfaces of the head/block.

Perhaps this could be the sign of a crack in the block.

However I read that a crack in the inlet manifold could do this also, but is that likely?

Post #914676 29th Jul 2021 10:09pm
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