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Ijk10



Member Since: 01 Apr 2021
Location: Newport
Posts: 37

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Jerky
Hi all
Hoping for a little help. 2007 puma 110 is jerky when coming off the throttle. Jut had a new LOF clutch and LOF extreme output shaft also installed LOGF 1 piece rear drive shafts. Any ideas where I should be looking.
Many thanks
Post #906957 8th Jun 2021 8:06pm
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3602

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
did it exhibit any jerkiness prior to the work DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #906961 8th Jun 2021 8:25pm
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Ijk10



Member Since: 01 Apr 2021
Location: Newport
Posts: 37

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Very slightly...thought the new output shaft would remedy it..
Post #906964 8th Jun 2021 8:36pm
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iansaron



Member Since: 18 Dec 2019
Location: Livorno
Posts: 5

Italy 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Same problem...2011 Puma 2.4
I have this exact same problem that started a few months ago so I thought driveline which is all Ashcroft or similar quality. Dealer and Independent verified all perfect, no play or slack anywhere. As it happens most noticeably on a decline, someone in LandyZone suggested the handbrake but that was cool to the touch after long drive so that wasn’t it either. I assume a fueling issue but there are no codes being thrown so I am at a loss and so is the dealership who wants to avoid spending Diag time and not knowing where to start. In second gear high range just driving around and letting off throttle and it is a slow bouncing engine brake pause engine brake pause engine brake pause until it levels out. Incredibly frustrating and the bouncing gets faster when in 3rd gear letting off throttle. 1st gear low descent...forget about it, the bucking was so bad I thought the truck was going to break. Any thoughts??
Post #907196 10th Jun 2021 10:38am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The root cause of this sort of jerkiness is more likely to be due to an engine running issue rather than driveline issue (slop in the driveline will amplify any effects).

I would suggest firstly checking for any stored DTCs on the engine ECU, if there are any of significance, address them. If there are no DTCs, I would suspect a fuelling issue most likely caused by the vehicles arch-nemesis, the Volume Control Valve on the fuel pump. Faults with the (excessively fragile) VCV seldom produce DTCs but can cause a huge variety of different running faults under different conditions, there is no single sure way of diagnosing a faulty VCV apart from changing it. Most typically the faults will occur when a significant change in the engine's fuelling requirement takes place, since this is when the VCV "does its thing" and changes the flow to the common rail. Faults often manifest themselves when you accelerate hard, or decelerate, or make a step change in engine speed (eg change gear), since these events all require a sudden change in fuelling.


Last edited by blackwolf on 10th Jun 2021 5:20pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #907203 10th Jun 2021 11:14am
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iansaron



Member Since: 18 Dec 2019
Location: Livorno
Posts: 5

Italy 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Wow great, thanks so much for the response! Ok so now I will have to look at the VCV and the clutch switch. Seems like lots of people are having a “kangaroo” problem that gets resolved by bridging the clutch switch, but now that you mention the VCV, I’ll have to take a look at that as well although most people with this problem are regarding idle problems and mine is perfect. Any idea on what it would cost to just replace both of these at an independent shop assuming they are able to do the pump learn procedure?
Post #907220 10th Jun 2021 12:04pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16812

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
You don't actually need to do the pump relearn after changing the VCV, although the manual says you do. The fuel pump/ecu is self learning and will sort itself out over a short period (I have never seen any evidence that the factory calibrated the pump when the vehicle was built).

I'm not sure the current price of a VCV, generally the Ford part is a little cheaper than the LR part, and now pattern parts are available, albeit of varying quality.

Do bear in mind however that it is possible that you change the VCV and it doesn't solve the problem. Sadly the only way to rule it out is to change it. If it makes no difference, you do at least have a spare VCV, one day you you are bound to need it.
Post #907279 10th Jun 2021 5:25pm
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iansaron



Member Since: 18 Dec 2019
Location: Livorno
Posts: 5

Italy 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Great response, will keep the VCV in storage if need be. I’ll try to change the VCV and bridge the clutch switch and hope for the best. Now to go and scour the forum for a tutorial on how to do both. Love being a Defender owner! Will update on the results.
Post #907305 10th Jun 2021 8:00pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19454

United Kingdom 
Clutch switch uses 2 pole Junior Power Timer connectors. All you need to do is make a bridged connection and plug in and job done.

Failing that you can replace the clutch switch it’s self, but on mine I run permanently with it bridged and I prefer it.
I prefer it’s characteristics in low range too, it you still keep anti stall active when required.

There is further information on here on this I’ve posted before. Thumbs Up Diesels Lives Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️
And if You Love the Country, then we’re on the same side ~
I got’ love for Britain, I got’ British pride’. 🇬🇧
Post #907310 10th Jun 2021 8:48pm
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Ijk10



Member Since: 01 Apr 2021
Location: Newport
Posts: 37

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Do these issues mentioned above apply to the 2.4 tdci or just the 2.2?
Post #907460 11th Jun 2021 7:35pm
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Mago



Member Since: 25 Apr 2021
Location: Frankfurt
Posts: 22

Germany 
blackwolf wrote:
You don't actually need to do the pump relearn after changing the VCV, although the manual says you do. The fuel pump/ecu is self learning and will sort itself out over a short period (I have never seen any evidence that the factory calibrated the pump when the vehicle was built). (...)


Well, that´s a very good argument... thanks for that Wink

The original VCV is made by Denso, the partnumber is DCRS300260.

Greetings,
Very Happy Defender 110 TD5
Defender 110 Puma 2.4
Post #907704 13th Jun 2021 9:48pm
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AndyS



Member Since: 18 Aug 2012
Location: London
Posts: 595

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
custom90steve wrote:
Clutch switch uses 2 pole Junior Power Timer connectors. All you need to do is make a bridged connection and plug in and job done.


By bridge do you mean short the two wires on the loom somehow? Would plugging in a clutch switch but not fitting it work? As I understand it their default position is 'on' so maybe that'd work? I've just changed mine and it's having an intermittent 'won't rev past 2000rpm' problem and I need to rule out the clutch switch. Thanks.
Post #908112 16th Jun 2021 10:13am
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AndyS



Member Since: 18 Aug 2012
Location: London
Posts: 595

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
To answer my own question, no that didn't work. Laughing
Post #908123 16th Jun 2021 10:56am
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