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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2996

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Fitting Safari Equip Tree Slders to a 110.

I have these to go this weekend. Any tips or advice from those that have done it before I start. They came with no documentation, so I am hoping for it to be self explanatory once I get into it. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

Post #907065 9th Jun 2021 5:07pm
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire...or Ghana
Posts: 665

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green

Mine took a few attempts to get everything aligned but that was down to having a 3 door 110 and needing to fit the additional chassis crossmember. I'd suggest getting some easing fluid on the main bulkhead feet bolts or possibly even some slightly longer bolts.

I put some closed cell foam strip along the top of the slider where it touches the rear tub / bodywork to prevent crud building up and to close the slight gap. 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop
1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top
1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles

Post #907197 10th Jun 2021 11:43am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2996

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

Thanks Harry, do you happen to recall how many shims you used and were enough provided? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

Post #907292 10th Jun 2021 7:15pm
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: South Yorks
Posts: 1640

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Caledonian Blue

Same as Harry, i think mine came with two but needed 6!

Brendan at 4x4overlander sorted me out some extras.

Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread


Mobile Diesel Heater Build Thread

Post #907322 10th Jun 2021 10:31pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 4489

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

I ended up making my own papers from a chunk of ali, amp nd also sealed them to the body to keep the crap out.



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Post #907336 11th Jun 2021 4:06am
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire...or Ghana
Posts: 665

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green

Bluest wrote:
Thanks Harry, do you happen to recall how many shims you used and were enough provided?


Just had a quick look now and I needed 2 on each side which were provided. You may need to take a notch out of your wheel arches also, a sharp stanley knife worked quite nicely.


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 2005 Td5 110 Hardtop
1989 300Tdi 90 Soft top
1992 200Tdi 90 Truck cab with Land Cruiser axles

Post #907355 11th Jun 2021 8:42am
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Matt110



Member Since: 29 Jun 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 531

United Kingdom 

In typical defender tolerance control fashion i had about 8 spacers in the end to make them line up properly with the doors, about 6 on one side and 2 on the other!!

But with those i did then manage to get them both straight, and "happy", i.e. not bent or providing a bending moment along their length.

Post #907359 11th Jun 2021 9:01am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2996

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

Thanks all. I’m now anticipating not getting the job done in one hit. Hopefully can start this afternoon if it dries up. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

Post #907369 11th Jun 2021 9:35am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2996

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

Well I made a start on this today, but it was frustrating experience and didn’t even get the first one mounted. First up, for some unfathomable reason the slots in the shims are on different centres than those in the outriggers, about 5mm closer together. Can’t figure out why that would be, might need to get the file out,

Marking out for the holes to be drilled in the outriggers was a hassle as it is nigh on impossible to accurately mark them with outriggers in situ, so much measuring and crossed fingers ensued. Anybody else come up with an easier way to do this?

The thing that brought the job to a halt was mounting to the front outrigger. If I fit the tree slider in as it is now it will be too far forward on the car by about 10mm, pushing into the front wheel arch and a gap at the back. So I need longer outrigger bolts and some thick washers to space it backwards.

On another note, the kit seems to come with a completely random set of nuts bolts and washers. Some nyloc nuts, some normal, and two different lengths of bolt with no indication which to use where. Stupid. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

Post #907472 11th Jun 2021 9:01pm
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Matt110



Member Since: 29 Jun 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 531

United Kingdom 

I completely forgot the front outrigger bolts.

Yes. You're right. I initially changed mine to studding, 8.8, but realised that wasn't man enough for the job and had to go buy a 10+ bolt from memory. Longer ones. So I could get enough torque on it without it stripping. But yes the original LR bolts are no longer long enough to do the job with the slider in place.

They are worth it once you've got them fitted... Keep going. We all feel your pain!

Post #907494 11th Jun 2021 11:29pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 13184

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Why do you say that grade 8.8 HT are not "man enough" for the job?

Post #907497 12th Jun 2021 1:08am
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Smyles_



Member Since: 26 Aug 2018
Location: Newcastle & Stirling
Posts: 245

Scotland 2008 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Cairns Blue

To be fair, most 8.8's look hideously cheap and nasty so I could understand from that perspective and am guilty myself for buying sexier looking hardware. But, they should, should, only start yielding at around 6 1/2 tonne per cm² in tension (choose those units as it's easy to quantify how many land rovers Twisted Evil ) and very roughly 2/3 that in shear at ~4 tonne per cm².

Thought I'd put my degree to more use than my current employer 🙃🙃🙃🙃🙃

I approve of step choice and sexxier hardware nonetheless Thumbs Up Stuart

Cummins 130 Build Thread
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04 110 Double Cab - Black (gone)
58 130 Double Cab HCPU - Cairns Blue

Post #907499 12th Jun 2021 2:40am
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Matt110



Member Since: 29 Jun 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 531

United Kingdom 

8.8 certainly shouldn't. But it was studding, rather than a bolt. Again... Not that that should have made a difference.

I thought it should have been plenty high enough grade, which is why I bought it. But before I could get enough torque on the nuts to stop the slider moving up and down at the front.... The studding went into yield.

Not entirely sure if it wasn't just very poor quality studding but I gave up with it and went after a 10.9 bolt the right length.

It should've been fine though blackwolf.

Post #907511 12th Jun 2021 7:49am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 13184

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

I am fairly sure that the studding won't have been 8.8 in that case. The obvious problem with studding is that it cannot carry head marks, so there is no way of telling. I've bought studding advertised as 8.8 from Screwfix in the past which has clearly been nothing if the kind (Chinese 4.8, I strongly suspect).

For this reason I would only ever use studding in non-critical applications, or in an emergency on a strictly temporary basis.

Thee can however be no doubt though that 8.8 is entirely adequate for that application and the factory fitted bolts.are 8.8.

Post #907514 12th Jun 2021 8:59am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2996

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black

I’m fortunate that there is a place that supplies fasteners just down the road, so I can get some new bolts on Monday morning. I’ve also ordered some 6mm thick spacer washers so I can space the rock sliders back from the bulkhead towards the rear more. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS

Post #907521 12th Jun 2021 9:58am
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