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Gloucesternige



Member Since: 17 Jan 2020
Location: In the garage
Posts: 114

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Puma video build
Hi all,

As some of you will be aware I am totally restoring my 2011 16k mile Puma 90 and recording every nut and bolt as I go for my You Tube videos.

So far I have covered rebuilding the Transfer case with an Ashcroft ATB centre diff, MT-82 full rebuild, front and rear axles full rebuild using Ashcroft ATB and Locker diffs, Gwyn Lewis H/D diff pans and Terrafirma axle trusses.

The chassis has been blasted and repainted using Corroless paints, Waxoyled and then fitted back onto the axles using Super pro bushes from Gwyn Lewis. I also did some fabrication work to straighten out the famously "bowed in at the ends" rear crossmember.

As of today, May 14th 2021 I have just started a series on rebuilding the 2.4 Tdci engine.

As I say, all of this is documented in videos covering the mistakes as well as the successes. pop on over to my channel if you are interested in how your Land Rover is put together and how it works. Nige

Check out my You Tube channel
https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel
Post #903006 14th May 2021 11:36am
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SJM2018



Member Since: 06 Jul 2018
Location: Bristol
Posts: 295

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Aintree Green
Just watched your first couple of videos from back in December 2019.

My front end is just as rusty as yours; won't be long until I have to follow suit and start stripping down the brackets, de bur, prime and paint!

How has the Corroless primer and paint lasted?

Keep up the good work!!

Stu 2011 CSW XS 90
Post #903025 14th May 2021 2:00pm
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Gloucesternige



Member Since: 17 Jan 2020
Location: In the garage
Posts: 114

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Well, If you look back at 13th Dec '19 you'll see i sprayed a rusty piece of steel with corroless S primer. it has been outside in sun, rain, wind, snow and ice 24/7 since and it still hasn't rusted.

I am finding the RF 16 gloss black loses it's shine in the weather, but doesn't allow rust to form. Nige

Check out my You Tube channel
https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel
Post #903045 14th May 2021 5:04pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 3993

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Hi Nige. Thanks for the videos.I watch every single one.

Are you a Toolmaker by trade? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #903071 14th May 2021 6:10pm
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SJM2018



Member Since: 06 Jul 2018
Location: Bristol
Posts: 295

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Aintree Green
I’m 2 hours in! Nice to watch you work, while I’m meant to be working Laughing

Have you considered sticking the engine from the mustang into the defender? I think it’s meant to be a ‘relatively’ straight forward swap 2011 CSW XS 90
Post #903093 14th May 2021 7:25pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3140

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Have watched quite a few of your videos Thumbs Up
The MT82 strip down was very interesting. Will be watching the engine rebuild. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #903118 14th May 2021 9:21pm
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Gloucesternige



Member Since: 17 Jan 2020
Location: In the garage
Posts: 114

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
SJM2018 wrote:
I’m 2 hours in! Nice to watch you work, while I’m meant to be working Laughing

Have you considered sticking the engine from the mustang into the defender? I think it’s meant to be a ‘relatively’ straight forward swap


And put the Puma in the Mustang??

I would like to see if I could build a Mustang/LR MT 82 that would bolt to the V8 and Transfer case with LR gearing? Maybe one day?? Nige

Check out my You Tube channel
https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel
Post #903188 15th May 2021 12:11pm
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Gloucesternige



Member Since: 17 Jan 2020
Location: In the garage
Posts: 114

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
Dinnu wrote:
Have watched quite a few of your videos Thumbs Up
The MT82 strip down was very interesting. Will be watching the engine rebuild.


Did you watch the MT82 rebuild? Nige

Check out my You Tube channel
https://www.youtube.com/c/Defender90KeswickNigelsLandRoverchannel
Post #903190 15th May 2021 12:11pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3140

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
No, not yet, but definitely I will as your videos are very interesting (this morning I started watching part 1 of the 2.4 rebuild).
Back to the MT82 I watched it based on your input to decide if I should replace the mainshaft or not after finding some wear on the splines. In the end I took the gamble, cheapest for now, and will probably continue driving until I loose drive (I am never too far from a free rescue). With a Puma it has to happen someday!! 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #903241 15th May 2021 3:44pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Nige, I was intrigued by your insistence that there cannot be alignment issues between the MT82 output and the LT230 input when you were talking about the LOF one-piece adaptor shaft in your video. Being mindful of the strength of your feelings, what do you think would account for the huge variations in spline wear on notionally identical vehicles built on the same line at the same time using notionally identical parts, if not a tolerance/alignment issue?

There is ample evidence from data supplied through this forum that one vehicle can suffer a shaft failure in under 2000 miles, the next last well over 250,000 miles, but with no difference in assembly or lubrication on assembly. There must be a reason for this.

As I have said before on this forum, on my 2007 110 the original coupling was as dry as a bone when I first changed the clutch myself at around the 150k mile mark, but it had no discernible wear at all and the two parts were a better fit together than the new coupling I had bought in the expectation of need. It was reassembled with very copious lubrication and is still going strong at 250k miles. The fact that it was dry suggests that it is not simply a problem with a lack of lube.

To my mind there can be no other explanation than an alignment issue, maybe a problem with accumulated tolerances. I changed the transfer box at 150k miles as well as the clutch and was prepared for accelerated coupling wear as a result. This hasn't happened, and that to me suggests that either I have been lucky with LT230s, or that it isn't the transfer box with a tolerance problem. Personally I think it unlikely that either the MT82 or the LT230 are the variable, and that the adaptor housing is the suspect part.
Post #903249 15th May 2021 4:21pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3140

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
+1 with thinking that the adaptor housing being the culprit.
My 90 has a history of failures, adaptor faces are pretty planar, so most likely it is an offset in dowel pin locators between the MT82 side to the LT230 side and not an angular misalignment. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #903259 15th May 2021 4:54pm
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Pacha



Member Since: 23 Feb 2020
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 771

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
I enjoy your stuff Nige. Rgds.

Chris
Post #903273 15th May 2021 6:05pm
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2260

blackwolf wrote:
Nige, I was intrigued by your insistence that there cannot be alignment issues between the MT82 output and the LT230 input when you were talking about the LOF one-piece adaptor shaft in your video. Being mindful of the strength of your feelings, what do you think would account for the huge variations in spline wear on notionally identical vehicles built on the same line at the same time using notionally identical parts, if not a tolerance/alignment issue?

There is ample evidence from data supplied through this forum that one vehicle can suffer a shaft failure in under 2000 miles, the next last well over 250,000 miles, but with no difference in assembly or lubrication on assembly. There must be a reason for this.

As I have said before on this forum, on my 2007 110 the original coupling was as dry as a bone when I first changed the clutch myself at around the 150k mile mark, but it had no discernible wear at all and the two parts were a better fit together than the new coupling I had bought in the expectation of need. It was reassembled with very copious lubrication and is still going strong at 250k miles. The fact that it was dry suggests that it is not simply a problem with a lack of lube.

To my mind there can be no other explanation than an alignment issue, maybe a problem with accumulated tolerances. I changed the transfer box at 150k miles as well as the clutch and was prepared for accelerated coupling wear as a result. This hasn't happened, and that to me suggests that either I have been lucky with LT230s, or that it isn't the transfer box with a tolerance problem. Personally I think it unlikely that either the MT82 or the LT230 are the variable, and that the adaptor housing is the suspect part.


I agree with you blackwolf that alignment is the prime suspect and if it is the lof one piece shaft you would have thought cause trouble further up the drivetrain......I guess time will tell! I don't suppose it could be the inconsistent quality of the manufacture of the shaft itself producing the variability ...isnt it not strange that the shaft splines tend to wear and the splines on the housing dont?
Post #903315 15th May 2021 9:59pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I think if you look through the many photos posted on this forum you'll see that both part do wear, I acknowledge that the male part seems to wear a little quicker. There can also be no doubt that quite a few failures have been on shafts that were either improperly assembled (not fully engaged) or where the spring ring has failed to retain the parts, although I suspect that it is actually improper assembly in most of these cases.

I still personally believe that alignment is the strongest contender for the root cause.
Post #903321 15th May 2021 11:47pm
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2260

Agree but is the inconsistency in the quality of the shaft manufacture not a possible vector for the failures?
Post #903326 16th May 2021 3:08am
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