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Smyles_



Member Since: 26 Aug 2018
Location: Copenhagen
Posts: 512

Denmark 2008 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Cairns Blue
^^ Laughing
For me, whilst a student, I had no choice but to learn. No better motivation than money... or lack of. I priced everything relative to pints! Stuart


Cummins 130 Build Thread
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04 110 Double Cab - Black (gone)
58 130 Double Cab HCPU - Cairns Blue
Post #896705 8th Apr 2021 5:39pm
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G4V JW



Member Since: 24 Sep 2018
Location: Northants
Posts: 190

United Kingdom 
Some sound advice, Just never be afraid to ask for help there’ll always be someone, probably on here that knows the answer, I’m of the train of thought that if I at least tried I’ve lost nothing, Ill know when something is out of my league but I’ll always have a go Big Cry Instagram; @gavin_walding
Post #896717 8th Apr 2021 6:27pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1733

United Kingdom 
Re: Learning...
TXH90 wrote:
Thanks all for taking the time to give loads of great advice and ideas. I like the idea of a buddy/mentor system- I think I will ask the garage if I can see some of the work they do next time Indie (90) is in... I teach (for my sins) so have a chunk of time off in the summer and might broach helping around the garage to pick up some more skills- I think that sounds like an awesome idea if they go for it. Also, my bike is in need of a service so I will take your advice to heart and strip it down too. As for the 90 the only thing I trust myself with right now is the ACF50 and perhaps repainting the chequer rails/side plate and rear-cross member in hammerite after wire brushing the surface rust off. I will see what else I can pick up along the way.

Ta very much all


Some more advice. Avoid Hammerite. Lots better out there. Search on here for painting crossmember you will see solutions from buzzweld and arc-rite . Ie corroless paint system. Plus frosts. Oh and be careful using a wire brush or wire wool on aluminium. Ie chequer plate. Ferrous metal residue on aluminium can cause issues when painting.

First thing to do is clean out all the nooks and crannies in the wheel arches, chassis and crossmember etc on a regular basis. Often this is neglected and you will find they are caked in mud that stays damp and causes corrosion.
Post #896727 8th Apr 2021 6:53pm
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nitram17



Member Since: 09 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2260

Smyles_ wrote:
I'm a relatively young defender owner with it being my second car and had little knowledge of vehicle maintenance and modification with my old man having little interest in the subject despite being a retired engineer and having raced cars when he was younger.

Like people have suggested here, having somebody with you that has some knowledge of what they are doing - even if it isn't defender specific knowledge - is a good way to start and build confidence whilst avoiding creating a potential death trap.

My biggest resource is YouTube. You can see how something is done in real time - far better than just reading passages of text.

As for tools, I treated myself and bought a bunch of Halford Advanced tool trays and roller toolbox the week I bought my 110. They often do large discounts and bundles on the stuff which in my opinion make for phenomenal value for money (tool snobs not apply Whistle )! Also, flex-head ratchet spanners Bow down GET SOME! Saved my bacon many a time.

Breaker bar and torque wrench are must have initial tools for me, with the latter being bloody important too no matter how well calibrated you think your elbow is. Don't want any critical bolts to fall out whilst driving on a motorway...

I still haven't gotten myself a dugga dugga gun and frankly rather enjoy doing things by hand permitting it's not time critical. My standard brushless Makita drill with respectable levels of torque can help me out in a pinch with loose fasteners once you pop an adaptor in to accept 1/2" sockets.

A jack and some axle stands are also nice to haves, permitting you have place to store them. Big jacks are flipping heavy. You don't want to be picking them up.

Most other tools that aren't your basic sockets, spanners, pliers, multimeter, and the likes I just purchase as and when needed. Most of the time they pay for themselves in their first use.

I think the most important thing though, as cringe as it may sound, is to just believe in yourself and don't be afraid to undertake jobs - you will learn from mistakes. Plus, there's no shame in going to a garage if you completely balls something up Thumbs Up I kept pushing myself (and inadvertently my parents patience too with my many late nights on the driveway Twisted Evil ) and within a year I was replacing wheel bearings which, for some reason I had this preconceived notion it'd require some expert level shiz - it really didn't!

Learning all this will help you in becoming an expert roadside mechanic too Mr. Green

Apologies if I've repeated what may be been already stated. Started writing this reply in the morning...



I never understood the use of breaker bars for removing wheel nuts.....Unless your driving a wagon all you need is a decent socket and one of these:



Click image to enlarge


and one of these:



Take the strain from nut removal. Hit the slider bar with a socket attached with a hammer and all will loosen!


Last edited by nitram17 on 11th May 2021 9:55pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #902506 11th May 2021 2:58am
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Smyles_



Member Since: 26 Aug 2018
Location: Copenhagen
Posts: 512

Denmark 2008 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Cairns Blue
It wasn't for the wheel nuts. My first requirement and discovery of their purpose was for removing the old bolts holding the tow ball to the drop plate. First bolt came off with hammering, the second had other ideas. Stuart


Cummins 130 Build Thread
Instagram

04 110 Double Cab - Black (gone)
58 130 Double Cab HCPU - Cairns Blue
Post #902539 11th May 2021 11:33am
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87110



Member Since: 14 Nov 2020
Location: Athens
Posts: 13

Greece 
Interior, exhaust, general servicing and smaller parts

Stripping the interior to a certain degree (removing seats, shifter boot, headliner) is quite easy and will require you getting under the car, which is the proper way to understand what trans fluid tastes like.

Same goes for the exhaust (from the catalytic converter back) and its damned rusty bolts. Knowing how to remove all kinds of rusty bolts is a must for a defender owner.

If you want to do some rust removal or painting its better to start with smaller, non-visible parts like the battery mounts.

Changing fluids, batteries, tires and light bulbs is easy and very helpful and will teach you much about using tools.

I wouldn't do bodywork, since that requires some experience, but removing the bumper and hammering out any dents is fun.

One spanner of each size, from 4-26mm is good to have and having doubles of some sizes (10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21) are necessary. Several screw drivers, a few allen keys, a hammer, a mallet, different kinds of pliers and lots of WD-40 are also good to have. Clamps are extremely versatile and highly recommended but not necessary. You might be able to get under the car as is but if you lift it to do anything more than a wheel change jackstands are absolutely necessary. the factory jack will do just fine. And of course don't forget safety glasses and a respirator, which is better to have and not need than to need and not have.

Good luck!
Post #904124 20th May 2021 5:48pm
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Magoyo



Member Since: 04 Feb 2022
Location: Buenos Aires
Posts: 43

Argentina 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
X4SKP wrote:

Thumbs Up


i want one ¡¡ Rolling with laughter
Post #943112 20th Feb 2022 1:26am
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Magoyo



Member Since: 04 Feb 2022
Location: Buenos Aires
Posts: 43

Argentina 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
and a good pair of ramps make it much easier to work under the truck and wash the chassis
Post #943113 20th Feb 2022 1:35am
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