CRJ wrote:

What tyres is on? A lot of noise can come from rough terrain tyres!
Regards
Christian

LandRoverAnorak wrote:

Alex, if you have a search for sound proofing you'll find dozens of threads with lots of useful stuff in them. The basic premise though is to add some mass to various panels (Silentcoat or similar) to stop vibration and then cover everything you can in self adhesive foam to absorb airborne noise. Here's a couple of posts in my own build threads to get you started:

https://www.defender2.net/forum/post622546.html#622546

https://www.defender2.net/forum/post637884.html#637884

https://www.defender2.net/forum/post711655.html#711655

roel wrote:

http://www.bose.nl/nl_nl/products/headphon...lsrc=aw.ds

bluebottle wrote:

If gear changes are an issue plenty of people swear by slickshifts too.

A more expensive option, but worth it if not needing to tow etc., is to look at changing the gearing of the transfer box. I have done this and it effectively means the engine does fewer revolutions for the given speed = quieter engine noise.

landy andy wrote:

I found a remap makes driving a lot less tiring. Saves on changing gear so often and quietens engine at speed.

Beero wrote:

I have a 2005 td5 90 van back and found a lot of noise was coming from the weight of the spare wheel rattling the back door. I removed it and strapped it to the back of the bulkhead temporarily and it quietened things a lot. I also put padding around things like the jack and wheel chock to stop them rattling. I don't carry heavy loads so lowered all the tyre pressures to 25 psi. I also put heavy duty rubber mat on the loadspace floor. I now don't feel the need to do the soundproofing that I was considering doing before.

4RF RDS wrote:

A few things to consider...
1- sound insulation of the roof is a must, remove headliner and add butyl then foam on top of that. Replace headliner
2- doors, remove door card and add butyl pads to the door skin, place door card
3- add sound deadener matts to the seatbox. Like the wright off road mat system
4- add sound insulation to the underside of bonnet and around the edge add a rubber seal (a lot of noise comes from there)
5- add a slick shift kit to the shifter, a lot less flinging your arm about when shifting makes it more car like
6- bit pricey to add but an overdrive unit (Global Roamerdrive) reduces RPMs and internal cab noise/vibration considerably
7- replace clutch spring, clutch slave or master with LOF kits. They DRAMATICALLY reduce clutch effort
8- add Disco II upper shock tower cone ring isolators to the front springs and regular rubber spring isolators to thr top of thr rear springs.

All of these I have done to my 110 CSW as my daily driver and these mods render your Defender much more pleasurable to drive and dramatically reduces driver fatigue. Check out links below, I have not used all of these products but similar ones. The links are just for you to get an idea of what is possible.

Good luck (hope you keep the Defender)

Butyl sound deadener (used throughout my 110j
https://www.b-quiet.com/

Rubber sound mat system (not used but similar JLR OEM one used in my 110)
http://www.wrightoffroad.com/

Slick shift (installed in my 110, one or the best mods I have done)
https://www.onlinegearboxparts.com/product/series-slickshift/

Lighter clutch pedal. (Installed in ky 110)
https://lofclutches.com/store/clutches/pedal-assist-products/

Overdrive to reduce RPM, vibration and noise (installed in my 110)
http://roamerdrive.com/

Front upper spring isolator (installed in my 110)
https://www.amazon.com/RBC10011-Suspension...B06XTYRVB3

Rear upper spring islolator (different lnes installed in my 110 as the springs are larger diameter)
https://www.roverparts.com/suspension/springs-hardware/anr2938/

Bonnet sound insulation (not used but installed B-Quiet products underside of bonnett)
https://www.nkgroup.co.uk/product/full-lan...ofing-kit/

Bonnet edge self adhesive rubber seal (installed similar product)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Pillar-Door...SwQJlf2HBG