![]() | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Broken spline in axle housing |
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LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3068 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
that is a useful get me home technique
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Bluericky Member Since: 26 Jun 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 523 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That’s bad luck but glad you got home in one piece .
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 12665 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
A useful post, and it is clear that your mind works in a similar way to mine. I actually find that most of the time I am driving my Defender I am running though the "what do I do if ... breaks" or "how do I drive home if ... has broken" and have run though in my mind the exact scenario you encountered before now.
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LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3068 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I spend most of my time wondering what that noise is and when its going to break,
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karlosgoesbush Member Since: 05 Jul 2016 Location: Wellington Posts: 4 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I agree that for a long haul home properly sealing the wheel bearings is important to prevent dust ingress and oil/grease egress. I think the thing that worked in my favour was that nothing was rotating inside the diff. I expect the ends of the half shafts may have a few bruises due to knocking up and down inside the housing (normally supported by the wheel flange), but I've yet to inspect. Rough roads up the East Cape! Anyway, now I need to order an Ashcroft rebuilt P38 with ATB and heavy duty ring / Pinion to match the same I stuck in the rear a couple of years ago c/o this forum. My only reservation is that either the ATB or the heavy duty ring/pinion introduced a slight whine - not all the time - only at high speed and only with the foot off the gas pedal. I'm not sure which new component was the culprit. And then the question of whether to change out the half shafts and flanges for Ashcroft heavy duty. The rears I put in a couple of years ago are worn, not as fast as the stock setup but nevertheless now a bit sloppy which was unexpected. Perhaps I am to blame for not regularly replacing the grease but there is no sign of any rust colour under the caps and I am one of those 99% on-road Landy owners so not crossing rivers etc. Backlash remains on my "fix it" list. And as we know as soon as there is some backlash this leads to more accelerated wear and rapid onset of more. Has anyone tried modifying a drive shaft to put in one of those rubber donuts like on the old Rangies and Discos? Yes it introduces a weak point but if easy and cheap to replace regularly and if it takes the transmission clunk hits and makes the down shift gear change-followed-by-acceleration smooth, then I'd be up for trying it. Besides which if its good enough for an old V8 then surely okay for puma engine? Apologies, I digress. |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 12665 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Remember that it isn't a P38 in the front, it's a Rover pattern diff.
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karlosgoesbush Member Since: 05 Jul 2016 Location: Wellington Posts: 4 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Many thanks Blackwolf. Yes my mistake, I need the Rover type for the front.
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LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3068 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
this is an interesting thread on mine (2.4) I now have very little transmission slack as I have modified most of it out,
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 12665 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You're welcome. I have the same setup at the rear (3.54 original R&P with ATB) but the front is an ATB with the Ashcroft 28/8 3.5 ratio R&P. If I were to replace the rear again I'd probably go for an Ashcroft long-nose with ATB and 28/8 R&P. I think the whine is always a function of the R&P set-up rather than the diff itself, and is generally caused by incorrect pinion engagement, either the pinion height or backlash being not quite right, or tooth characteristics or wear in the tooth profile (assuming that the pinion and carrier bearings are good and the preload is correct, of course). Drive line backlash is a characteristic of the TDCi, and personally I think that the number of wear points combined with an unusually "binary" clutch is the reason. Over the years and miles my driving technique has evolved to compensate for this, but the well-discussed lack of effective springing in the clutch is key. Modern high-torque, low-inertia (hence vibration-prone), high-revving diesels are brutal to clutch damping, hence the reason most have DMFs, and really we just have to live with it. I also have the final type of genuine one-piece rear halfshafts in mind (absurdly expensive but they really help the lash). Would you believe the country of origin of these is South Korea? They probably came from the Kia factory! |
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karlosgoesbush Member Since: 05 Jul 2016 Location: Wellington Posts: 4 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
After a long wait for the part (but being very grateful for it in this COVID era), I have fitted the new front diff. It is an Ashcroft rebuild including their ATB and normal 3.54 R&P.
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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 511 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Personally not a fan of grade 12.9 bolts.
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