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SteveK



Member Since: 21 Jan 2015
Location: Bromsgrove
Posts: 245

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 HT Portofino Red
Just the slave or not?

Just took my 2002 110 for an MOT and service and it passed!

However, the gears were very hard to engage on the way there, but the last time I drove it about a week ago it was fine!

The garage say the slave cylinder is leaking and topped it up and bled it, however they reckon that the whole clutch system (plate, master and slave cylinders) need replacement.

Bearing in mind that the issue has suddenly developed, I’m inclined to think that I should just replace the slave cylinder and see how it goes.

My previous Defender was still on its original clutch plate, but with new master and slave cylinders at 140,000 miles!

My current TD5 has done 80K.

Post #877869 12th Jan 2021 12:25am
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 671

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green

Check you clutch pedal for bubbling paint and fluid drip. If you have a leak just change the master. A seal kit is good for a year (or two) at best. Good luck Thumbs Up 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)

Post #877873 12th Jan 2021 2:41am
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 1832

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green

If you do replace it, go for LOFs powerslave, your leg will thank you!

If its leaking it should be a fairly visible leak Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent

Post #877876 12th Jan 2021 5:58am
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 1914

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue

Is the clutch slipping at 3500 rpm in third or forth gear?
Does the clutch makes noises while reversing or just engaging?

If both are answered with no, the clutch doesn't need replacing I think.


How was the drive on the way back? Not difficult to change gear anymore? The you had air in the system due to the leak.

If it is still leaking change the slave cylinder. Some say you have to change both at the same time but I just replace what is broken. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)

Post #877892 12th Jan 2021 8:22am
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SteveK



Member Since: 21 Jan 2015
Location: Bromsgrove
Posts: 245

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 HT Portofino Red

The drive back was fine. There is no slippage in any gear. I’ve not noticed any fluid on the pedal or the mat (and this was the reason I changed the master and slave in the previous Defender), but I’ll check.

Post #877903 12th Jan 2021 9:06am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 12466

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

4RF RDS wrote:
... A seal kit is good for a year (or two) at best. ...


This is a rather pessimistic view, isn't it?

My '02 Disco2 and '07 Defender are both still using original master cylinders and m/c seals, and each has 250k miles on it now. The slave cylinders have been replaced (twice on the Disco, and about seven times on the Defender) but only because I've changed them when changing the driven plate, not because they were defective.

Perhaps they fail quicker if you don't use them enough.

Post #877904 12th Jan 2021 9:15am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 12466

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

It is possible that the spigot bearing has become tight through lack of use (Td5 spigot bearings are not famous for being great).

Does it change gear better if you double-declutch?

My first inclination would be to take it for a reasonably long run (difficult at the moment, I realise) and see if it improves.

Post #877905 12th Jan 2021 9:17am
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SteveK



Member Since: 21 Jan 2015
Location: Bromsgrove
Posts: 245

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 HT Portofino Red

The Defender isn’t used quite as much as used to be since lockdown, however I’m not aware of any sticking issues.

I’ve just checked and there is no fluid on the pedal, so for the moment I’m inclined to just changing the slave cylinder.

Post #877924 12th Jan 2021 9:56am
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 671

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green

blackwolf wrote:
4RF RDS wrote:
... A seal kit is good for a year (or two) at best. ...


This is a rather pessimistic view, isn't it?

My '02 Disco2 and '07 Defender are both still using original master cylinders and m/c seals, and each has 250k miles on it now. The slave cylinders have been replaced (twice on the Disco, and about seven times on the Defender) but only because I've changed them when changing the driven plate, not because they were defective.

Perhaps they fail quicker if you don't use them enough.


I got 170,000 out of my original master on my 2000 MY 110. A kit lasted two years. The slave is still good. So I misspoke about the slave. Thumbs Up

And on another note... I second the recommend install of a LOF slave. Great mod along with the LOF spring. 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)

Post #877973 12th Jan 2021 2:02pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 12466

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

4RF RDS wrote:
... A kit lasted two years ...


Wasn't Britpart by any chance?


No, of course it wasn't, it wouldn't have fitted if it was. Silly me.

Post #878036 12th Jan 2021 5:54pm
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Leamreject



Member Since: 19 Dec 2020
Location: Cubbington
Posts: 46

Italy 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Fuji White

If the slave can be replaced without the removal of the gearbox, just do the slave. However, if the box needs to be removed it makes sense and is common practice to replace the clutch kit. Especially if you don’t know when the last one was fitted. My other car is a choice of Ducati Monsters... Ride it naked!!

Post #878044 12th Jan 2021 6:07pm
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 671

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green

blackwolf wrote:
4RF RDS wrote:
... A kit lasted two years ...


Wasn't Britpart by any chance?


No, of course it wasn't, it wouldn't have fitted if it was. Silly me.


Rolling with laughter Actually I buy TRW rubber kits. I always keep kits in the truck for both slave and master just in case. They have been great over the years. When I removed the master after it leaked again it was the bore which was scored. The seal tried to do what it could Thumbs Up 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)

Post #878104 13th Jan 2021 2:42am
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