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Home > Puma (Tdci) > Overheating in 6th gear going uphill (SOLVED)
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Gonarezhou



Member Since: 08 Mar 2015
Location: White River
Posts: 178

South Africa 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Alaska White
Possibly a corroded EGR cooler. Part number LR049203 - Since you have removed your EGR probably best to just blank it off. If this is the problem.
Post #865530 5th Nov 2020 12:40pm
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Kevlar



Member Since: 28 Oct 2020
Location: Prague
Posts: 78

Czech Republic 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
I'm currently solving the exact same issue, over heating on the highway in 6th gear and pressure in the cooling system.
I bought a RELD test kit like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/RELD-Cylinder-Com...ljaz10cnVl

It confirmed that I had exhaust gasses in my coolant, more than likely meaning my head gasket was leaking.
I'm now in the process of rebuilding the top half of the engine, nearly finished and I HOPE that it solves the problem.
(800 GBP just in parts)

I will update here once I know for sure
Post #865657 6th Nov 2020 7:45am
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Greyman110



Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 323

United Kingdom 
Thanks for all the replies so far!

@kevlar I did the same thing and bought that kit and it came back clean with no gas escaping.

I’m now considering changing the rad and thermostat.

If someone could tell me how hot the rad should get - ie if the whole thing should be hot or just a small part of it say after a 20 min drive I would appreciate it.
Post #865668 6th Nov 2020 8:51am
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Kevlar



Member Since: 28 Oct 2020
Location: Prague
Posts: 78

Czech Republic 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
I changed my thermostat, viscous fan and flushed the radiator when I first noticed this issue. It didn't help.
Post #865677 6th Nov 2020 10:19am
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Greyman110



Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 323

United Kingdom 
I might try a rad flush. Anything to try and narrow it down before replacing any other parts.
Post #865693 6th Nov 2020 11:41am
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Kevlar



Member Since: 28 Oct 2020
Location: Prague
Posts: 78

Czech Republic 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
On mine I also found that 2 of the injectors were totally gunked up with burnt black oil.
I expect in my case the over heating issue was stemming from the engine running poorly not the cooling system.

I will see once I get it running again.
Please let me know what you find or what happens after you flush the rad.
Post #865696 6th Nov 2020 12:07pm
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Greyman110



Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 323

United Kingdom 
So today I’ve been fishing around the engine and thought I’d wipe oil residue off pipes and see if I could see anything out of place...and I found something!


Click image to enlarge


This has traces of coolant around the clip and I found the smallest drip on where it screws on but could only see it when you lean down. I put a tissue behind it and it came back with coolant so could this be the problem?

I don’t even know what this is but it seems any leak is coming from the rear right hand outlet.

* sorry for the sideways picture. Not sure why it did that!
Post #866093 8th Nov 2020 4:48pm
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DarrenJ



Member Since: 07 May 2012
Location: North Beds
Posts: 312

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
The radiator should be hot at one end and cool at the other, the purpose of the rad is to remove heat from the incoming water and output cool water to the engine so I’d suggest the radiator is ok.
I think the poi true you’re showing is the valve for the heater assembly - someone else will be able to confirm.
Does the fault only ever exist in 6th gear? Ie does the overheating still occur if you’re in 5th and put your foot down when at a low rpm, ie engine under heavy load.

Cheers
Darren Darren
Post #866097 8th Nov 2020 5:20pm
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shropshiredefender



Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 832

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Greyman110 wrote:
So today I’ve been fishing around the engine and thought I’d wipe oil residue off pipes and see if I could see anything out of place...and I found something!


Click image to enlarge


This has traces of coolant around the clip and I found the smallest drip on where it screws on but could only see it when you lean down. I put a tissue behind it and it came back with coolant so could this be the problem?

I don’t even know what this is but it seems any leak is coming from the rear right hand outlet.

* sorry for the sideways picture. Not sure why it did that!

Heater valve - random internet pic



A minor radiator leak caused my CHT sensor to cut in a few years ago, as I understand it - small leak = loss of coolant pressure = higher running temperature. Thumbs Up Just because you're offended doesn't mean you're right.
Post #866098 8th Nov 2020 5:28pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1728

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Thats the heater valve with the drip - mines done it on and off for 10 years with no other issues, doesn't even need topping up between services!


beaten to it!

Theres a bleed screw on one of the hoses on the top of the engine, unscrew it until fluid flows with no bubbles - with the heater in the cab on 'max'

IIRC there are posts on here about water pumps internally failing, vanes falling off etc - not sure which engine though, hopefully someone on here will clarify that one.

Theres an egr cooler on there back of the engine that can fail / leak or internally leak mixing exhaust with coolant or potentially dropping the coolant and pointing to / giving symptoms of a head gasket. failure when its fine.

HTH Keith


Last edited by ickle on 8th Nov 2020 5:39pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #866099 8th Nov 2020 5:38pm
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Greyman110



Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 323

United Kingdom 
Thanks for that!

Its only ever happens in 6th! I've tried to make it happen in other gears but it just does't do it.

I've never had an issue with the heat in the car but I'll replace that anyway as clearly there shouldn't be coolant coming from it.

If the heater valve was faulty, could that really have an impact the temp of the engine?

* Just re-read shropshiredefenders reply so that answers the above! Laughing


Last edited by Greyman110 on 8th Nov 2020 5:44pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #866100 8th Nov 2020 5:38pm
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Greyman110



Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 323

United Kingdom 
I'll try the heater thing.

I had the EGR cooler replaced this year.
Post #866101 8th Nov 2020 5:40pm
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Greyman110



Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 323

United Kingdom 
UPDATE

Checked the engine first thing and there was coolant on the heater valve.

Bled the system just to make sure all the air was out. Did this with the engine and heater on.

Did a drive with the heater on and there was quite a difference in the engine temps. Around town it was mostly mid 80's. On the motorway it was mid 90's and it didn't cut the fuel off when I went up hill during an overtake! Highest it got to was 110.

With the heater off and switched to cold, the temp went up to 100 on slower roads but it seemed it went up and down very quickly where as with heater on the temps were more stable and went up and down slower.

There's certainly something going on here so I've ordered a new heater control valve which I'll fit this week and then I'll report back
Post #866245 9th Nov 2020 11:09am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16879

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
IIRC from when I looked at the cooling system some time ago, the flow through the heater valve is critical to the engine cooling, and the valve either bypasses the heater, or allows both bypass and flow through the heater. If the bypass passage in the heater valve was obstructed, then shutting off the heater will certainly affect engine cooling, possibly critically.

This does however assume that my memory is correct....
Post #866260 9th Nov 2020 12:56pm
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shropshiredefender



Member Since: 05 Jun 2017
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 832

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
When I had the CHT sensor cutting power due to a small coolant leak a while ago I discovered -

It operates at 120 deg.

It cuts the aircon off (it resets after a number of run cycles).

It turns the electric (aircon)fan on.

Hope some of that helps Thumbs Up Just because you're offended doesn't mean you're right.
Post #866358 9th Nov 2020 8:25pm
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