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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5765   
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 Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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24th Mar 2020 10:27am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240  
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So, the finishing touch to my snorkel installation was to blank off the now redundant air intake grill in the wing. With Blackwolf's help, a suitable Land Rover part was obtained from good old eBay. This part (no. 8510320) is intended to fit to the nearside wing of a Wolf Land Rover when converting it from the standard, twin, wing-mounted air intakes to a single raised intake. However, as it's merely a simple flat plate, it's good for both sides.
 Click image to enlarge It comes with a neat foam gasket but the eagle-eyed will spot that one of the holes in the gasket doesn't match that in the plate 
Fitting was quite straightforward. I removed the existing plastic grill by pulling with a pair of long-nosed pliars and then unscrewed the five torx screws that secure the end piece of the original air intake duct to the wing. I did spend a few minutes trying to extract that final piece of duct but there's no way that it will come out from behind the ABS valve block. It then dawned on me that I needed it for the fixings for the new plate to screw into anyway, so it remains in place. The blank plate doesn't come with any fixings as the ones from the Wolf air intake are supposed to be re-used. Instead, I used some stainless screws that I had in stock: Click image to enlarge Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia Last edited by LandRoverAnorak on 18th May 2020 8:15am. Edited 1 time in total |
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26th Mar 2020 10:17pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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Just after I tuned and turbo'd I added this for everyday performance. I have a plug to seal the side intake when it's dusty:
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Works very well when you're not in the Sahara  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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14th Apr 2020 9:28am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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Blimey, that's a drastic solution
 Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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14th Apr 2020 9:32am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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It works beautifully. For dusty stuff, the LR RAI went back on shortly after:
Click image to enlarge Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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14th Apr 2020 9:41am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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Heh, heh. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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14th Apr 2020 9:55am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10491 
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Hi Darren
I have to replace my window blocks gaskets as there is none there, some sort of silicone i think, so on page 20, you replaced your window blocks and made some gaskets up out of thin rubber, are they still doing the job of keeping the water out 
I see from your Tdi 90 thread you did the same, but used a thicker rubber gasket, did they do a good job of keeping the water out
Is there any reason why you used different thicknesses of rubber for the gaskets
I just want to do it right this time, TIA 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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21st Apr 2020 8:23pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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Hi Clayton,
Yes, the gaskets are still doing their job. The only reason for the change of material thickness was that was what I had in stock at the time. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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21st Apr 2020 9:18pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10491
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Thanks Darren
Forgot to ask you, what thickness of rubber is on your 110 window blocks please  1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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21st Apr 2020 9:23pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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Blimey, now you're asking! From memory, it was 1mm. Now that I think about it, I think I used either 1.5 or 2mm on the 90 and it tended to bulge a little around the edges, which is why I think I went for something thinner this time around. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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21st Apr 2020 9:36pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10491
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That's why i asked you as the 90 window rubber gaskets looked really thick, pic's can be deceptive, so thank you again
1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper.
Clayton. |
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21st Apr 2020 9:58pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240
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Yesterday, I replaced the standard XS tubular side steps with a set of four individual folding ones. Partly, this was because the originals were looking a bit scabby but mostly because the folding steps just work better as steps. They’re slightly lower and slightly bigger, making them much easier to use, particularly when wet.
The steps that I’ve bought are Britpart ones, which don’t seem to be any better or worse than OE ones, in terms of quality. Conscious that these sorts of steps do suffer from the elements though, I have tried to protect them by replacing all of the supplied hardware with stainless steel equivalents: Click image to enlarge Most of that is relatively straightforward but the bolts that form the pivots for each step are specials with a large, thickened shank. To replicate this, I had some stainless steel bushes made that fit over an M8 bolt which, together with some washers, forms an approximation of the originals: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The bushes are actually 0.8mm undersized at 12mm diameter, as the additional cost of starting with a larger stock bar to turn down to 12.8mm was prohibitive. In practice though, it makes very little difference. I spent a happy hour or so changing all of the pivot bolts. On the first one, I removed the bolt completely as I needed to measure it. However, I then had to disconnect the spring to allow me to install the new bolt and re-fitting the spring afterwards was a nightmare. For the remaining seven pivots, I left the springs in place but braced the two parts of the step with wood to allow me to insert the new bolt and not lose the alignment. It was mostly successful. With the new steps upgraded, the next job was to remove the original tubular steps. This went much better than I expected, with all of the nuts and bolts undoing without any fuss. The new steps mount to the cills using the same holes as the originals, but the bracing bar positions are slightly different. It was necessary to assemble each bracing bar completely to mark the positions for the new holes in the chassis and then disassemble them again to drill for and insert the rivnuts. Click image to enlarge Each hole was pilot drilled, opened up to 10mm with a step drill and then to 11mm with a regular drill bit. Again with corrosion resistance in mind, I’ve used stainless rivnuts and the new holes were given a liberal coating of Dinitrol before assembly. The rivnuts are M8 and so are fairly stiff to insert but my new rivnut inserter made short work of them. I’ve had a more traditional hand riveter-type tool for years but this thing is so much better and easier to use! Click image to enlarge With the rivnut in place, it was a simple task to re-assemble the bracing bar and tighten everything up: Click image to enlarge Fitting the rear step was much the same process: Click image to enlarge As was ftting them to the other side: Click image to enlarge I'm just waiting for some clear Dinitrol to arrive to give them all a protective coating as a finishing touch. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia Last edited by LandRoverAnorak on 26th May 2020 8:09am. Edited 1 time in total |
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25th Apr 2020 10:51pm |
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| seriesonenut Member Since: 19 Nov 2014 Location: Essex Posts: 1205
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excellent. Did the same to mine last year. Used stainless bolts but only on the chassis and cill fixtures. 2010 XS USW
1957 Series One 88 diesel 1958 Series One 88 4x2 |
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25th Apr 2020 10:56pm |
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| Badger110 Member Since: 06 Feb 2018 Location: South hams Posts: 1025 
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I'm looking at these for mine, my question is, can you place them anywhere along the cill or is there specific bolt holes to mount?
I'd like some for the 2nd row doors but to be a little further back as the seating requires you to disembark towards the rear wheel and not level with the footwell |
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25th Apr 2020 11:24pm |
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